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Paramedic04

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  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Firefighting, Harleys, leather tooling, and frosty cool beverages

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  1. Paramedic04
    Man, this could really open up some possibilities... someone could send you the files to print from around the country and you'd just have to print them out, make your holster, and mail it out.
  2. Paramedic04
    Think of an oz of leather being 1/64 of an inch. 8oz = 8/64" = 1/8". I've never done a stock cover with cartridge loops, but I try not to tool or stamp on anything thinner than 6oz. I definitely wouldn't go any thinner than 10 oz on a sling as veg tan cowhide does have a tendency to stretch the thinner it is. I'm fairly new to this as well, mainly doing holsters, belts, and some fire department related strap goods, but it sounds like you're on the right track.
  3. Paramedic04
    Gorgeous. Those edges are beautiful!
  4. Paramedic04
    I was thinking along the same lines. I wet mold first before I dye, because I had some inconsistencies such as what you've experienced using water based stains and dyes. I switched to Fiebing's Pro Oil and now I can do the dye job before or after, the color stays regardless.
  5. Paramedic04
    I honestly am not going to stick a loaded firearm that I paid hard earned money for in a holster that's not reinforced with stitching and take the chance on a negligent discharge and injuring myself, someone else, or damaging my very valuable self defense tool. THAT'S why I always stitch and sometimes double stitch in areas on my holsters.
  6. Paramedic04
    I use copper rivets or chicago screws depending on the application... the dual cap rivets have never impressed me. Definitely worth the effort to attach the clip to a separate piece, then glue and sew that piece to the holster if you're doing them in a foldover style holster. You don't want to hear the sound of a newly cerakoted or hydrodipped weapon sliding into a holster with a rivet making contact and marring the finish (made that mistake, and thankfully it was with my own gun, not someone else's).
  7. Paramedic04
    TwinOaks, I learned that the hard way on one of my earlier holsters. If I make a holster for a weapon with a rail on it and there's no accessory mounted, I make sure to put some gaffer tape over the length of the rail to make sure I don't get the interior molded too tight in the grooves. Thanks for looking! I appreciate the pointers... were it not for this community, I'd still be sitting at the bench scratching my head. Everyone here is an awesome wealth of knowledge and it is greatly appreciated!
  8. Paramedic04
    Looks awesome! I'm a little biased as that's my EDC platform... there's just something about a 1911 in a leather holster that I can't get away from.
  9. Paramedic04
    Thanks guys!
  10. Paramedic04
    Pancake IWB for Smith and Wesson M&P 40.
  11. Paramedic04
    I love a good KA-BAR sheathe project! They all look good!
  12. Paramedic04
    Very nice work. I really like that color.
  13. Paramedic04
    That's how I do my holes as well. Takes the guess work out of whether or not the awl blade is level or not!
  14. Paramedic04
    Good looking shields!
  15. Paramedic04
    I've got a pair of hemostats with heatshrink tubing on the jaws all the way to the hinge. No marks on the needles, and easier to keep up with than pliers.
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