Rannoch

Hi friends, I'm about ready to throw my bottle of Bag Kote out because no matter how I apply it, it streaks. Is there anyway to "fix" the streaking on clean (no carving) veg tan? I've applied various products on top, including another coat of Bag Kote, but the streaks won't go away. I tried removing it with deglazer with some good results, but the streaks are still visible. I've had this problem with Bag Kote for a very long time and just assumed it was user error, but now I'm beginning to think it's dumb to keep using the stuff. Is there anyone out there who loves it? Am I the only person who hates it? Thanks for your advice.

This sounds like a US Customs issue, rather than the USPS. US Customs is notorious for taking months to process packages and often don’t seem to know the law on natural products like leather. They have been known to mistake cowhide for sealskin, and can’t tell the difference between elephant, mastodon, walrus ivory and celluloid.

When CS at a company I did business with was outsourced to a foreign country I wasted so much time just trying to communicate with people who couldn't speak English well. Most of the problems were either related to education or flaws in the system. Even states-side CS people don't know basics, like there is a state called Washington and Alaska is part of the US. One person thought Oregon was "in California." I have heard "the system won't let me do that" too many times. The people who design and manage the systems never have to use them, don't know the businesses where they are being applied, and are poor at CS themselves. The programs seem to be designed for the accounting department first and foremost. Also, the first place companies cut is CS and fulfillment. The last place they cut is executive compensation.

Is it just me, or has the reliability and customer service from a couple of key suppliers dropped off in last six months or so. Maybe it's a function of Covid. One supplier in particular not only screwed up my orders, but could never get them straight. Eventually, I just cancelled my order and asked for a refund. They never sent a label for me to use to return the items I didn't order, so I dropped the wrong order at one of their retail locations. I won't order anything on line from this supplier. When I want something from them I phone the closest retail store and order it that way. But it's not just them. There is another supplier that can't seem to ship an order right the first time. I depend on this supplier and would use a different one if I could. Thank goodness for one person in their customer service department that always fixes the problem quickly and efficiently.

Thanks William. That's exactly the explanation I was hoping for.

Would an insert of nylon webbing give enough stiffness, or does it have to be steel? I get requests for steel lined belts regularly, but I don't know where to get the steel and it seems like it would be pretty uncomfortable. Can the steel be sourced from a typical hardware store, or is it a specialty item? thanks

Thanks for the responses, gents. It's surprising that latigo is chrome tanned first, then veg tanned. Is that done to speed up the tanning process or to create a particular quality in the leather? Bridle and harness seem to mean the same thing, but it sounds like bridle means something specific in the UK.

Beautiful job, Jesse.

Here's my understanding of the differences between these terms, but I'm not confident in this understanding. Please comment on what I'm missing or misunderstanding. They are all start out as veg tan, then are dyed and infused with waxes and oils. Bridle has medium flexibility and will become pretty soft with use. Harness has less flexibility than bridle and has a harder finish. Latigo is like bridle only it has a better finish on the flesh side. In terms of quality over all, depending on the tannery, latigo is best, followed by harness and then bridle. I've talked to people at different leather suppliers, wholesale and retail, and it seems everyone has a different idea. I searched the archive, but was looking for more detail. Thanks for your insights.

I found the company that makes the stuff and their phone number. The number has been disconnected, so I guess they went out of business. Has anyone tried something called "Goop"?

MacPherson Leather in Seattle used to carry this stuff, but they have been out of it for months. Does anyone know where else it might be available? I've checked Weaver, Tandy, Montana Leather and Oregon Leather but came up empty. Google isn't any help either. thanks

Thanks for the replies. I'll give these ideas a try. I wonder if anyone has tried to fill them with paint? Getting the color just right could be difficult.

What is the best technique for filling in or otherwise hiding holes made by sewing gone awry? When you make a mistake and pull the thread out, the holes remain. Is there a compound our technique for filling in these holes or masking them? thanks

It looks left handed to me, because I am right handed and I cross the needles on the other side of the leather from Nigel. But it is still the same stitch, with the same result. The only difference that I can see is which side you cross the needles. Maybe I'm missing something though.

I hear you on that. It is amazing how few people know what goes into making a good belt, but the customers you want will recognize quality when they see it.

I love that book. I couldn't figure out what sort of stitch the master saddler used to make the seams water tight. Have you? I use a machine on some projects. Hand stitching is really almost as fast as machine sewing on small projects, and faster in some projects. Also, hand stitching looks much nicer. Over and over again customers ask, "what kind of machine makes this stitch?" When I tell them it's done by hand they are amazed. It's a selling point. If ten people start leather working, or hand spinning, I wager only one continues on with it after making one or two projects. But their interest in it creates appreciation for the work.

That book is very good. I have read through it several times and referred to it for years. As good as it is, however, I think Nigel's book is better organized, more detailed, better illustrated, more useful to the beginner, and better written. Of course, YMMV. Valerie Michael's book covers some things Nigel's book doesn't, like wet molding, lining and rolled edges, so they compliment each other very nicely. Both, I think, are essential. BTW, Al Stohlman's book THE ART OF HAND SEWING LEATHER is probably the best description I've found for hand stitching. https://tandyleather.com/products/the-art-of-hand-sewing-leather-book

Nigel does briefly explain how to use a pricking iron or wheel and an awl, but he quickly moves on to stitching irons as an easier and more accessible way of making holes for stitching. He doesn't go into great detail on how to stitch with an awl, the method of which could make up a whole volume on its own. The section on saddle stitching is well illustrated and well worth reading even if you've been saddle stitching for years. Nigel always illuminates something for me, which is why I watch his videos over and over again. Overall, the book does a great job of keeping things simple and clear enough for beginners, while offering insights and details more skilled leatherworkers will appreciate. Nigel's daughter took the beautiful cover photo, and he sourced many of the other photos himself. The photography is really great. Compared to other books on the market intended for beginners as well as advanced leather workers, this book stands out as being very good. What is the title you refer to as being by Michal?

My copy arrived, so here is my first impression, FWIW. The first thing that impressed me was the high quality and production value. The photography is beautiful. The printing, design, format and binding are all top notch. It's a beautiful book. There are plenty of opportunities to drool over Nigel's signature stitching, pattern making and finishing. It's organized very well and projects proceed from one to the next in a graduated, intentional way so that the student, especially someone who is new to leatherwork, builds skills and understanding in an easy, natural flow. The content is just what you would expect from Nigel Armitage. It is, in a word, excellent. This book is a good back up for Nigel's pattern packs, and people discovering Nigel through the book can move on to the pattern packs without missing a beat. The fundamental techniques, skill sets and how-to, like pattern making, make this an essential volume for any serious leatherworker. The projects themselves are not mind blowing (sorry Nigel), but they well serve the purpose of clearly showing the techniques and skills. If you want mind blowing projects then order Nigel's pattern packs. I give it five out of five stars. As a side note, there is a strong European/British emphasis, which shouldn't come as a surprise, nor does it weaken the book for North American leatherworkers. If the publisher, which is based in the US, had made a bit of an effort to include North American leather, hardware and tool suppliers it would have made the book slightly more useful. Given the size of the North American market this is an irksome oversight. I use Rocky Mountain Leather Supply in Utah quite a bit, and they would be a good source for many of the leathers, tools and hardware Nigel references. Ordering from the UK can be expensive and a hassle. Also, US Customs can sometimes be maddeningly difficult when it comes to importing leather. Besides there are many excellent suppliers in North America. Tandy, Weaver and the Buckle Guy will have much of what you might want after reading the book, however RMLS specializes in European tools, leather and threads. I hope this has proven useful.

Which swivel knife? I have a basic one from Tandy, well stropped, but it does not glide through the cuts like demonstrations I see on YouTube. This is obviously my unskilled hand, but how much depends on the quality of the blade, the kind of blade and the kind of leather? Herman Oak premium is the best for carving, so I've heard, and the leather I'm practicing on is not premium veg tan. I did case it over night. Perhaps it was still too wet? Can a hide that is too wet cause the knife blade to drag?

I just did some painting with Angelus acrylic paints. I put a couple of coats of Resolene on top and hope it stays there. RTC might do a better job of protecting and sealing the paint, however. Others tried it on Angelus paint? I have had problems with spray on Saddle Lac chipping and flaking off, so I wouldn't recommend that. Maybe I applied it incorrectly? I've stayed away from it ever since.

That's a great suggestion. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. That clears things up a bit. I think I'm beginning to see the subtle differences between the dominant styles. Just looking at Jim Linnell's course page where the different styles are shown side by side makes it easy to see the differences. I used to go to LA for business and whenever I had a few hours of spare time I would visit the Gene Autry Museum of Western Art to look at the leather work up close. It seems significantly different from contemporary styles. It seems like floral carving came from Mexico like so much of cowboy culture. The cuts and beveling aren't as deep as today. I have some pieces that were carved by a great uncle in Oregon about 80 years ago, and they are not cut deep and hardly beveled at all.

What are the differences between carving styles like Sheridan, Tandy, Northwest, etc.? It seems like floral leather carving originated in the 1940's, but that's probably wrong. I searched the archive but didn't find anything. Thanks for your help.

This is just a PSA. I noticed on Nigel Armitage's web page that he has a book forthcoming. I emailed him for more information, but received no reply. No worries. I found the publisher, and here's a link: https://www.schifferbooks.com/leathercraft-traditional-handcrafted-leatherwork-skills-and-projects-6940.html all the best