superpacker

Perhaps indeed! I do think Nigel's method in the video you posted could very well work for the main stitches, bc even if the watch band isn't lined or double layered, there is still at least a few cm that are skived and folded over, hence the need for the stitch in the first place.

That makes sense. Thanks! However, on these straps, the keeper loops are similarly finished with what appears to be a single stitch, and those shouldn't be layered.

Sorry. I thought I had in the op. Here's an example. In the only other post I've seen about this stitch, the only answer some one offered was to guess that perhaps the loose ends are tucked under a lining. But I don't believe that is the case as this stitch usually appears on unlined straps

Can someone please explain to me how to do this loop stitch used on unlined watch straps? Or at least tell me the name of it? Obviously I know how to do the loops but how do you lock it off or back stitch something with one hole? Could only find where one other post has been made about this stitch, but don't feel like the question really got answered.

Done most of my leather work so far with standard intro tools - harness needles, standard punch awl, 1mm thread, etc. Looking to make an unlined watch band, using .5 mm thread. However, it seems that a typical punch awl will punch holes in the watch band that are too big. Am I missing something here? Are there different sizes of punch awls? Or how should I punch these stitch holes? Also, with these smaller holes, and narrower thread, is there a smaller needle I should be using as opposed to the standard harness needles Tandy recommends for starting? Thanks!

Thanks. So is that the 2-3 ounce? What's the diff between DHF and SHF? Thanks for the clarification. From what it looks like online, 2 oz seems like a clothing leather or leather for soft bags or wallet interiors. Doesn't appear stiff. It seems like you would at least need 3 oz and probably more like 3-4 to make a wallet. Is that correct?

Thanks. So is that the 2-3 ounce? What's the diff between DHF and SHF?

Been making some nice card cases from 3-4 oz veg tan. Want to try horse. I know shell cordovan is the go to, but want to try something else. To my understanding the other options are SHF, DHF, and Strip. I struggle to understand the various weights of horse leather, and which type would be best for this purpose, as well as the desired ounce weight (as I understand it, a slightly slimmer horse leather can be used compared to veg due to its density). In short, looking for a thick horse leather comparable to 3-4 oz veg tan for making card case wallets. Thanks!

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Making a single piece leather watch strap. Wanted something simple. So the only stitching is to sew the buckle. But what kind of stitch do I use? Also, what size thread and needle? I don't want the row of stitches to loop over the edge, but rather be contained within the edges of the leather, if that makes sense. Usually see it in a row of 4 neat little stitches but no idea how to tie that off either. Thanks for the help!

I must agree. While opinions are appreciated, degredation is different. I have only made one large purchase with Springfield, and found the product and service to be great. Thank you for the concern, but back to gator leather suggestions. And there have been some good ones so far. I worry with such a pricy, exotic leather that I will be dealing with either an overpriced or unethical source, so this forum is appreciated

Does anyone know a place that will sell really small amounts of alligator? I'm talking like a square foot? Its expensive, and I don't need much, especially not the thick backs, just looking for some decent belly to try and make a few slim card cases. I can make 2 with a square foot.

Does anyone know a convenient source for J & F J Baker bridle leather, sold in small quantities? Preferably stateside

I know a lot of drug and convenience stores carry tins of saddle soap, usually kiwi in he shoe care isle. Does anyone know of a convenient place to look for the liquid version?

Wow, that "liquid" saddle soap really is liquid! It looks like a spray bottle of toilet cleaner. I thought it would be like a runny goo.

What brand of liquid saddle soap?

Any specific kind of bar soap?

What about this tins of saddle soap (Kiwi I believe) that you can get in the shoe care aisles at most stores?

After working with veg tan, I am going to try horween chromexcel. From what I've heard, burnishing this stuff can be difficult. So, any tips and tricks up front what be appreciated!

Is one for preferred to the other, and if so, why? I mostly burnish natural veg tan tooling leather, leaving the edges undyed and just want them slick, but want to try chromexcel, and will dye those edges.

Is that a leather specific product, or can I get that elsewhere?

So while it will help of you have a hard edge to but up against, do yo need that, or can you cut it in stages with a knife, multiple cuts getting deeper, after you've traced your pattern?

What products are recommended for this? I am making wallets and pen sleeves, and simple need a product to hold several lathers of of leather together, just around the edges, long enough for me to punch and sew. Are trade specific products preferred? I have some people use rubber cement, how does that hold up?

So I guess my hang up is how to physically cut the arc? What's the best way to make rounded cuts? Most cuts are straight and I normally use a hobby or x-acto knife

Are there any tips to cutting shallow, subtle arcs or curves in leather. On a simple billfold for example. If I wanted the lip of a card pocket to have a shallow dip, rather than be a straight line across. What the best way to measure and cut that?