superpacker

Thanks! Any way to wet the leather without staining? I’m making a natural veg tan belt and will allow it to darken over time. And I think dampening will leave water marks? I did just try it on some leather that are more “moist?” Like cxl and it does seem to work better. I mostly just use veg tan

I recently purchased a Tandy edge creaser and have been a bit disappointed with it's performance on even basic leathers like natural veg tan. Takes lots of elbow crease to get even a decent crease, and even then it's not as deep as I would like it, so I have to go over sections again and again. In the past, I've borrowed my buddies, which was nothing special either, another budget brand tool, but it worked noticeably better. I'm guessing it's just luck draw with budget tools. But is there anything that can be done to increase it's performance, or sharpen but not so sharp that it cuts the leather? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks. Any other comments are welcomed and appreciated

Thanks! don’t know how concerned about pigment concentration I am on edges - so might not opt for the professional. Will the low vox do fine? I’d love to just swing in and grab a bottle rather than waiting for the post man. But if I can get better results from other dye, I’m willing to order some

Looking to purchase my first bottle of edge dye to finish belt edges. I'm just trying to understand the types available. The few dyes I've used in the past have actually soaked into the exposed edge and allowed for later burnishing (as in Hidepounder's tutorial). I prefer this approach to a paint type. I see these referred to as "spirit dyes" but don't know what constitutes a "spirit dye". I see Fiebings has both oil-based and alcohol based dye, and Tandy has "eco-flow" which seems to be water based. Also, I'm not sure if you need a different dye for edges than the types of dyes use use on the surface of leather. My local craft store carries a few colors of Fiebings Low VOX leather dye, and I don't know how that will do for edges.

To complete this thread, the 3/16 screws worked SOOO perfect.

Yes - don’t think there’s a right or wrong but oval does seem better. I think tear Drop has the same benefits - mainly - laying nicer

For reference, I usually use about a 5mm Circle for belt holes

Thanks for all of the comments. The tear drop shape is rare - seen into mostly on older leather goods But I know two commercial makers who use it. If I couldn’t find one, I wanted to get an oval, which I like better than a Circle. Can someone tell me what size oval I would need?

Can anyone recommend a source for a tear drop shaped punch (if that’s what you call them) for punching belt holes? I know it’s a traditional shape for holes on work belts, but seem hard to find. Also, if they come in sizes not sure what size I’d need. Would like to buy just one punch.

Makes sense.

Jeselright - very helpful formula! Is there any benefit to the open back screws?

Tom, thanks for the tip on the thread lock substitute! I don’t plan on using Chicago Screws a lot - so don’t want to buy a tube of thread lock at least right now

Making a basic veg tanned belt. Want to use Chicago Screws instead of rivits but they are new to me and I’m not sure what Length post to use. Strap is 9-10 oz and will be skived at buckle end to maybe a bit more that half thickness. Any thoughts? Thanks!

So I just started (haven’t finished) burnishing with liquid saddle soap (Fiebing) and a wood hand burnisher. Would be ok to do this first then dye then do some type of sealer or gum trag? Or should the dye go first? Then saddle soap burnish then gum trag/sealer?

Does the sheen darken the edge? How well does it do at sealing?

I’ve seen conflicting examples. Some say measure from the end of the buckle to their favorite hole on an existing belt. And others say that you measure from where the strap starts at the buckle end to their favorite hole on existing belt. So which is it? And does it make a difference if The existing belt has a heel buckle And the belt being made will have a center bar buckle?

What type of sheen? I’ve seen bridle edges left in dyed or painted but they are usuall on lighter colored leather. After beveling these edges, they seem really light - like it’s too much contrast so I feel a need to dye

Making a bridle belt from Clinton’s Havana dark brown. Once I slick the edges, any recommendation on how to dye it?

Please help with some belt questions: 1. Are there any benefits to using an oval or tear drop hole? 2. Any tricks for making sure oval or tear drop holes are not punched crooked? 3. I know the hole size depends on prong width - but would 5mm be a safe average size?

Thanks! While I'm sure you can't color the flesh side. What about the edges? Does it look good to dye those, or to just let them darken from the burnish process?

Good point! JLS, Is it hard to burnish?

The buckle guy has a good deal on bridle leather belt blanks. Want to try to make my first Belt, and these seem like a good option. Anyone had any experience with either of these blanks? Both are from well-known tanneries, but I'm surprised at the cost difference between the too (WC noticably cheaper) would have guessed them to be about the same. Two side notes, they also offer waxed bridle from Clayton's so it's from England. Not sure if this is even better. Also don't know if it's ill advised to start with bridle for my first Belt.

It's not all that difficult horween chromexel horse front. However, I have only found passing references to horween Dublin horse front. Any ideas as to a source? Ideally in a small quantity, but I'll take any source right now. Thanks!

Example: