bylinesupplyco

Looking to make a personal bag for myself, and would like to attempt a briefcase style bag like this. Wanting this exact style or something like it.

I am looking to make my first bag, and I am wanting to make a sort of Filson style leather briefcase. Anyone have any idea where to get a pattern for something like this, or how to pattern one?

Selling my Pfaff 145 sewing machine with speed reducer. Works great. $800 cash only. Located in Portland, OR. Local pickup only.

Selling my long wallet die set. Dies made by Texas Custom Dies. $250 OBO Link to photos: Photos

I have tried gum trag a long time ago. I liked the results, but the application is where it got me. Basically I would apply it with a wool dauber, and if it dripped on the natural veg tan, it would just discolor it. I understand that it is also a learned skill of application to get just the right amount so Im not faulting the dauber

Currently on my belts, I add natural atom wax liquid to the edges (natural veg-tan straps), and proceed to burnish with my pro edge cocobolo burnisher. This is in my drill press. I have noticed darker spots on the edges, and the burnish is not a consistent caramel color throughout. I am looking for a fast way to burnish, as I do production runs so a hand held wooden edge slicker is out of the question. Is there another liquid I could use? Machine? Technique? I am wanting to do them as fast as possible, however with good looking fast results. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies y'all! I am not looking for the shackle or the fish hook. I've gotten those from buckle guy. What I am specifically looking for is the brass "sleeve" closure.

I've been looking all over for this brass closure hardware and can't seem to find it. It is the closure that is pictured on the wallet lanyard.

Hey y'all, I have a Cobra class 4 that I was using a size #24 needle and 207 thread, and I recently switched over to #22 needle and 138 thread. Ever since I made the switch, I am getting shredded thread, skipped stitches, knotting, bad tension etc. I have re-threaded the machine, checked needle position, put in a new needle, etc. Very frustrating, and I am hoping theres not some timing issue or something big thats going to be costly to fix. Any suggestions appreciated!

So right now my belts are sized to order, however I would like to offer actual sizing. That being said, obviously your pant size is not the size of the belt. I measure my belts from the tip of the buckle, to the hole the customer currently uses. Is there some guide in inches to show the length from buckle to middle hole in "pants sizes" online somewhere so I can match the correct length of the belt with the pants size? I am looking for a sizing guide for both men's pants sizes and women's pants sizes. Thanks!

So I have begun attempting to learn sheridan style carving. Out of the gate, I've realized this is fairly ambitious, but I'll keep working at it to get it down. That being said, I have just been using a Tandy craftool swivel knife, which I am realizing may be causing some definite problems. I am wondering if I were to upgrade my swivel knife, what brand to purchase? I have heard good things about the Barry King knife, along with the Leather Wranglers knife, however I can't afford the $150 price tag (at least not yet!) What swivel knife upgrade would you recommend?

Hello! I am getting into learning Sheridan style carving, and was curious if anyone had a printable template for a basic Sheridan style belt, preferably 1 1/2" in width. Thanks!

So I am contemplating trying my hand at making some work boots. I have absolutely no idea how to do this, where to begin, etc. The style I am after is in the attached picture. Does anyone know any sites/books/articles that give a step by step guide on how to accomplish something like this? Yes I know this is a difficult feat (pun intended), however if anyone has resources that would be awesome. Thanks!

I've been using barge cement, and letting it dry for about 30-45 minutes. As for the leather, I only use 3-4 oz. veg tan, and English bridle. Wallets mostly is what I make. If I were to use 138 thread, what size needle would I use for that? As far as the top tension goes, I have the nut almost all the way unscrewed. Anything more and the nut would be close to falling off.

So I recently have been having some tension issues with my Cobra 4. I was using 207 thread with a size 25 needle, and even after messing with the bobbin and top tension, the knot was still coming through. Called Steve and he said the needle was too big. Recommended size 23 needles. Installed a size 23 needle, and the issue is still arising. Anyone know how to fix this? Attached some pictures for reference. some spots are fine, other spots the tension is off.

Selling my Tandy hand press with grommet/eyelet dies along with line 24 snap dies. $250 takes it. Purchased new 1 year ago, in great condition. Dies included, paid almost $400.

Seen this machine used for monogramming. What is it?

I just recently got a Cobra class 4S and have been amazed by what it can do. I have been sewing wallets with 3-4oz Wickett and Craig English bridle. The outside presser foot is leaving impressions all along my stitching lines, even after I have adjusted the pressure foot pressure. I think I've loosened it almost as loose as it can go, and it still seems to be leaving marks. I dont want to loosen it more, as I don't want the fixture to come out as its spring loaded. Has anyone had any issues with this? If so how did you fix it? Thanks in advance!

I would like to install a roller edge guid on my Pfaff 145. Has anyone done this on this machine? If so where exactly is it installed? Directly to the right of the needle bar and presser foot is the throat plate cover over the bobbin case so it seems as if that wouldn't work. If I ran my leather edge along the guide if it was installed in that spot, any sort of pressure would seemingly just move the throat plate back. Any help on this would be appreciated!

I have been looking at various ways to dye my edges effectively. I have spoken with a few craftsman who use the setup below. Anyone know where to get these tweezers along with the material (seems like wool cloth or something close?)

Does anyone know if there are smooth presser feet for a Pfaff 145 rather than the ones that have a textured bottom? Also, I am in the process of acquiring a Cobra class 4S. Are the presser feet on that machine smooth on the bottom?

So i just switched over to Horween Chromexcel for my brown color way on the stuff I make. I like the supple nature of it, along with the consistent color. I'm seeing my wallets with my Pfaff 145 which has no problem going through the Horween or the Hermann Oak veg I use for my natural color way. I've noticed on the Horween, that the stitching looks great on the front, but on the back seems to fall out of line in some spots. Is this because of the softness? How would I correct this to ensure stitches on both sides match up following my stitching line? Help!

I buy Fiebings 32 oz. professional oil dye, and put it in plastic storage bins (which use lids when not in use) so I can dip dye veg tan pieces. After dip dyeing I wipe off the excess so the color looks uniform. However after letting the pieces dry over night the brown is usually still damp, and the both the brown and tan have an olive color metallic film in spots. How do I correct this to make sure the colors are actually brown and saddle tan and get rid of the film?

Hello! Today I attempted a round leather braid for a lanyard, however not matter how many times I try it, it never looks like what I want it to. Can anyone point me to a detailed tutorial on how to do this? Also what kind of lace/leather should I use for braiding? I've attached a picture of what I'm after. Not the top loop part, more after the body of the attached image.

I have been looking for months for SOLID BRASS (not brass plated!) line 24 snaps, that are NOT domed like the standard Tandy/Springfield snaps, but rather FLAT topped (referring to the outer snap part). I have attached an image so you can get an idea. Also looking for SOLID BRASS double cap rivets (again not just brass plated) that are of the same shape. The rivet is round, but the top is not domed but flat. Any help appreciated!!!!