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I know how to draw in illustrator, my question is more to geared toward how to set the exact length in inches for the curves and lines i draw.

I recently purchased a Harbor Freight shop press into a leather clicker by having someone weld cold rolled steel plates to the jack press bar and the base bar. Excited to use it once I get dies made. What is the easiest way to go about designing the dies with the exact sizing specifications? I have Illustrator experience, however it is difficult to set the exact length of a line in inches, along with the exact curve of rounded corners on designs. The die company I am going through is requesting an illustrator file. Help please!

I've got a Pfaff 145 - H4 walking foot sewing machine for sale. This thing works like a dream. Will go through leather like a charm. I have invested a lot into the machine (machine head, table, servo motor, speed reducer) and have had it completely tuned by a sewing machine tech within the last month. Located in Portland, Oregon - local pickup only. Comes with extra needles and metal bobbins. Asking $2000 or trade for a different machine. Works great, just looking for a different kind of machine for what I'm trying to do.

Just messaged you!

Hi Nancyg! I'm going to direct message you as I may have a machine you'd be interested in, and it just so happens I'm looking for a Cobra machine

So I've done everything I can do try and adjust that tension, and yet its still leaving presser foot marks all over my pieces. Im not sure if switching out the feet is really going to do anything, since even if I use presser feet without teeth, its still going to leave an impression. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do?

Ill try and adjust it some more its just very difficult to get that knob on top to move. Do you know where I could find new presser feet with a smooth bottom that would fit my machine?

Here are the photos. I adjusted the wing nut in the back as loose as I could get it, and also from info I found on another thread, adjusted the black protrusion that comes from the top of the machine, but still getting marks from the presser foot pressure.

Hello all! So in the last few months I've gotten the hang of my Pfaff 145. Great machine for what I'm doing. However, I have noticed that the presser foot marks the majority of the leather I'm sewing from too much pressure. I loosened the wing nut on the back of the machine according to the instruction book, however I can see and feel that the foot pressure is still too high. Does anyone know how to adjust this pressure so all of my leather doesn't get marked?! Any help appreciated. Thank you!

So I have been looking high and low for some specific hardware. I am looking for line 24 snaps, however solid brass (not just plated) and the snap is round yet flat rather than domed. I've seen a lot of companies have their company named embossed in the snap. Where can I find these? I am also looking for rivets that look like double cap rivets however they are solid brass and not just plated. The rivet heads are also about 1/8" thick. Where can I find This? I have attached some photos as well (snaps are on the wallet, rivets on the lanyard)

So I have been looking high and low for some specific hardware. I am looking for line 24 snaps, however solid brass (not just plated) and the snap is round yet flat rather than domed. I've seen a lot of companies have their company named embossed in the snap. Where can I find these? I am also looking for rivets that look like double cap rivets however they are solid brass and not just plated. The rivet heads are also about 1/8" thick. Where can I find This? I have attached some photos as well (snaps are on the wallet, rivets on the lanyard)

where are you located?

As far as using a shop press from harbor freight or anywhere else, how did you guys go about attaching your steel plate to the ram?

Hello all! I have been looking everywhere for rivets like this. They are made from solid brass, and are of exceptional quality. Does anyone know where I could find them??

Hello all! I use Hermann Oak veg tan for all of my projects, and I am having difficulty with the dyeing process. I used to dye with a wool dauber, however that did not produce the result I wanted. On the recommendation of a reputable leather supply company up here in Oregon, I began dip dyeing with Fiebings oil dye. I have some containers filled with dye, and I submerge the leather completely in the tank, then let it dry. This definitely increased the quality and coverage, however it still seems to be streaky in some spots. I would like to achieve a perfect dye and completely even look if at all possible. I'm not sure if this has to do with the Hermann Oak that I'm using, or what the issue could be. I have seen some people using veg tan that is absolutely perfect with absolutely no imperfections, to the point that the leather is almost white looking. Does anyone know what this could be? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

I recently purchased a used Pfaff 145 walking foot machine that is in excellent condition from a sewing machine tech with 20 years experience. I am wondering if anyone would be interested in trading for a Cobra class 3. Mine is complete with table, bobbin winder, thread tower, bobbins, servo motor, the works. Just wanted to throw it out there and see if anyone is interested. In excellent working condition, just need a different type of machine! Located in Portland, Oregon

I just purchased my first industrial machine today (Pfaff 145 with brand new Servo motor) from an awesome industrial machine tech in Vancouver, WA. He gave me a demo on the machine using 207 top thread and 138 bottom thread. He showed me how to thread the bobbin, insert the bobbin, how to thread the top thread, etc. When he did the demo through 3 pieces of 3-4 oz. veg it sewed like butter and both the top thread and the bottom side looked amazing. Once I took it home and set it up in my shop, I retreaded the bobbin with my desired color, and threaded everything correctly from what I can see. When I go to sew, the top thread looks great, but the bottom thread looks horrible. Either it has big loops, which I seemed to eliminate by pulling on the thread behind the presser foot to start, or the bottom thread looks like a straight line with little bumps where the top thread loops around it. Any help would be appreciated as to what I'm doing wrong and how both stitches can be even

Is it possible to split leather that's actually about 6" wide or is it just for belt straps that these splitters will work?

I have been looking for one of these things to hold my contact cement. Anyone know the name of it and where to find one?

So I've been experimenting with some various stitching methods to increase speed on some projects. I recently noticed a leatherworker I admire pre-punching his holes, and then saddle stitching from there. Im not EXACTLY sure what tools he uses for this, however his finished products look amazing. Top notch stuff. I decided to give this a go, and just try something different from the standard awl method, to hopefully increase speed as order volume picks up. I purchased a CS Osborne #153 00 spring punch. At first I was very very happy with it, it punched holes for my wallets effortlessly, even going through 3 layers of 3-4 oz veg like nothing. Then after about 2 days of use, it sort of went down hill and wouldn't even go all the way through. The tubular punch even cracked, and I had to replace the tube after one day. My local supply store loaned me an Osborne #00 singular punch that I've used with my maul, but that leaves one awful backside. The inside where I grooved, and used a stitching chisel looks amazing. The outside (while the stitching lines are perfect) look terrible from the punch. Should I groove the backside as well? I'm not a big fan of sewing machines, and much prefer hand stitching all of my items. My questions are: 1) Am I doing something wrong with the Osborne punch that would cause it to stop going through the leather I need it to, when it was punching holes just fine a few days prior? 2) What methods/tips/tricks do y'all have to increase the speed of your stitching? Yes I know that practice is a big part of it! Any help would be great thanks!

How do you guys go about designing your templates? In regards to programs that is. Photoshop? Illustrator? I have templates I need to get made through Joyce, just trying to figure out how to design them in a computer program to ensure accuracy.

I have a bunch of designs of my products that I used poster board templates for. I really want to get some laser cut templates from Joyce at Black River Laser to ensure tracing accuracy and the life of my templates. For those of you who have used acrylic templates, how do you go about designing them as far as programs go? Do you use Photoshop, Illustrator, AutoCAD etc? I have experience (somewhat) with Illustrator and Photoshop, I just need to be able to determine line length etc. Any tips would be great!

Hey yall, So I've got some projects I'd really like to use some Hermann Oak english bridle on. Obviously most English bridle comes in a heavy weight between the 9/10 or 11/12 oz range. I am looking for a way to either find someone that sells Hermann Oak English bridle that's already been split to a 3/4 or 4/5 oz weight, or figure out a way to do it myself after I would buy a hide. I don't have a ton of money, but is there a way to split the leather down to my desired weight without having to buy an overly expensive machine? I've looked into manual crank splitters, just not sure which one would be a potential good choice. I'll be using the English bridle for wallets and smaller things like that if that helps. If nothing else does anyone know where I could get Hermann Oak English bridle in this weight, or someone that splits leather? Thank yall in advance!

I have been having some trouble with setting copper rivets. I love the things, however they always look terrible when I do them. The leather gets marked after using the setting and the doming tool, and doesn't look professional in the least. Any tips on this?

Awesome thanks so much! Does anyone have any edge finishes they recommend as well? Bob Park recommends neat lac, just wanted to see if this is a good way to go. Thanks!