ToddB 68

TomG..........Re photo of the dye applicator in my above post, below are some details. Material : Hardwood Maple dowel length overall : 4-1/4" Diameter : 5/8" Slot : 1/4" wide x 2-1/8" Long Felt : 1/4" Thick x 1/2" wide x 7/8" Lg. ToddB68

Hello ! I decided to add the attached photo to this thread, just to make it a little clearer how all three components go together, i.e. the Mini-Jaws, Swivel-Vice and Gunstock Checkering Bench. Sorry, the photo isn't better (Not real sharp.). At the time of taking this photo I had a piece of textured soft-rubber tubing slid onto the vice worm screw, to prevent lubricant on the worm screw from getting on a leather project. I'll be replacing that tubing with some material that is lighter-weight and more collapsible as the jaws are being tightened. You can see the springs mounted on short hardwood dowels at the lower part of the photo. I used Gorilla Glue to attach the leather pads at the top of the Jaws. The photo shows I didn't get all the glue residue cleaned off ! Oh well. Hope this thread helps if someone decides to make a set of Mini-Jaws for their vice ToddB68

Hi TomG ! I assume the smell you refer to is a vinegar smell. Since your Roon wasn't black that would mean there was still a lot of vinegar left in the mix. My Roon is over 3 years old and has no vinegar smell. I can't place the smell accurately, except to say it is pungent (like when a car burns rubber) ,with a hint of sweetness and an overtone of caramel. Thanks for the caution about the wicking effect of leather. Actually, I thought about that and am planning to do some experimenting before dyeing the edges of my tool sheath. My applicator is one I made (see attached photo.). The tip is felt, cut on angle, so this should give me a little more edge control than a small wool dauber. Another help would be to minimize the amount of dye applied to the felt tip. Thanks again for your reply. ToddB68

Greeting ! I have some well-aged coal-black vinegaroon that I'm planning to use for dyeing the edges of my tool sheath made of 12oz. veg-tanned cow hide. After dyeing, I plan to let it dry well, then burnish with a bone folder. As with any dye, I assume it's a good idea to go over vinegaroon dye with a sealer before final buffing. I have Beeswax, Paraffin wax and a bottle of Gum Tragacanth, but which one would be best for sealing Vinegaroon and producing a nice glossy appearance ? Your opinions are welcomed ! Thanks, ToddB68

r lenna , Yes, with the mini-jaws mounted in the swivel-vice at the front-end of my checkering bench, I can sit at the rear of the bench and be comfortable while sewing! leather ! ToddB68

Greetings ! One of my previous hobbies was gun stock checkering and I made a checkering bench. I mounted a swivel-vice on a raised platform at the front end, to hold a Brownell's stock cradle. When I got the "leather bug", I decided to design and make a set of wooden leather sewing mini-jaws that would adapt to the vice and be used for small projects, like a sheath for tool or knife. A photo of these mini-jaws is attached. The jaws are 4" wide and the throat is 6-1/2" deep (from top of jaws down to vice worm screw.). Each jaw has a slot to allow it to slide down onto the vice worm screw to stabilize and keep the jaws in alignment. Springs keep the wood jaws open until the vice is tightened and leather washers prevent the spring-ends from marring the wood jaws. ToddB68

Hi Boys (& Girls, if any.), Well, Several of you thought I was "overanalyzing" and I must admit you were right ! So, yesterday I went ahead and ordered two diamond-shaped awls ; 43mm Length x 3mm Width and 56mm x 3.5mm, along with a package of (25) #2 Harness Needles. Thanks for the help with replies. Wish you all success in the upcoming new year ! ToddB68

Hi TXAG ! See attached picture.........this is what I was going by. However, perhaps the artist had to over-emphasize the thread thickness for clarity. There are more views leading up to this one in Al Stohlman's book, but with copyright laws, I gambled using this one for my post without permission. Al's book also shows/explains tapering the end of the thread, not so much by cutting on an angle, but by scraping and pulling the fibers apart to fine, pointed ends, waxing and smoothing to a fine point. After threading the needle eye, you are instructed to pierce the needle point through the thread at a point farther down where the thread is normal thickness and subsequently pulling the thread over the needle eye to lock it. (Note: I have not mentioned all of the intermediate steps here for brevity.). Since I will be using 5-cord thread (on the thick side for leaherworking thread), I just figured it will create a bulbous condition at the needle-eye end, necessitating a tapered diamond awl blade with a max. width (toward the haft end.) capable of producing a large enough hole for easy needle pull-through. The awl blade is tapered smaller toward the point, therefore, I could always stack a small leather washer or two onto the blade, and slide it up against the haft ferrule to act as a depth-stop at a point on the blade where it would cut a smaller hole if need be. Eureka.......a great idea I read somewhere. With all of the above information in mind, it would seem I could decide on the max. width of a diamond awl blade all by myself, but lacking experience (which is the best teacher !) I am smart enough to know how dumb I could be about some things. (Wink). So, I'll wait for more replies. Thanks TXAG ! ToddB68

Greetings ! I will be hand sewing a tool sheath of my own design, using the two-needle method described in Al Stohlman’s book The ART of HAND SEWING Leather. My sheath design is simple, a rectangular-shaped Front and a Back shaped to include a belt loop and a strap w/Snap that goes across the tool handle, acting as a retainer. In other words the Back as described, is all one solid piece. I have the Front and Back cut out from a piece of 12 oz. (.188" thick) veg-tanned cow hide and since I will be wet forming the Front over a wood mold to create a cavity for the tool, I made the Front wider than the Back to allow for this. I’ve decided on 5 cord Waxed Poly thread and using a 6 spi spacer wheel tool. The diameter of this thread is 3/64" (.047") as measured with a six-inch SS Pocket Scale and the #2 needles I have on order are 1.02mm (.0402") dia.. The needle eye is the same size (Not bulbous.). However, after attaching the thread to the needle as shown in The ART of HAND SEWING Leather, that will enlarge the dia. at the needle-eye end, which could increase resistance when pulling the needle through a stabbed hole, unless the major width of the awl makes a large enough hole. Since I’m using .188" thick cowhide and stabbing the awl through two thicknesses of this leather (Total thickness being approx. 3/8"), I'm guessing I should order a diamond awl blade a little larger at it's major width than the needle dia. + ( 2 x the thread dia.), to make it easier to pull the needle and thread through the stabbed holes. I have an old Awl haft (with 4-jaw chuck) that I found in some of my father’s small tools after he passed away. I believe he used it for small chain saw files since he wasn’t "into" leatherwork as a hobby. So I just need/want a diamond-shaped awl blade and will appreciate your help in determining the best major width of this blade. Based on the details above, I have a theoretical size of .134" as a starting place (.040" + .047" +.047") but lacking experience, I need advice from other leatherworking members here before ordering an awl blade. For reference, I've listed below the diamond-shaped awl blades where I plan to buy. Which one would you recommend ? 38mm length, 2.5mm width (1.496 x .0984 inches) 43mm length, 3mm width (1.693 x .118 inches) 56mm length, 3.5mm width (2.205 x .138 inches) 75mm length, 5mm width (2.953 x .197 inches) 100mm length, 6.5mm width (3.937 x .256 inches) Thanks for any help you can give ! ToddB68

Greetings ! I'm a "newbie" to leather working, so please forgive me if this post seems a bit asinine. Bone folders.....I could make one, but at the prices the plastic ones are selling for, it's not worth my time. I'm on my first leather project and until I see how it goes, I'm staying away from the expensive tools. (Wink). The plastic 3 in 1 folders with half-circle detachable end can be had for under $10.00 with Free S&H and maybe cheaper than that if you browse the Internet , but watch out for those S&H charges ! I'm just wondering how well the plastic holds up under hand pressure when smoothing and folding. Also, if anyone out there has used both types, did you see any noticeable difference in the smoothness and gloss on the leather between plastic and real bone ? Which do you prefer and why ? Thanks ! ToddB68

jackd942 and Matt S, To set the stage again, I'm a newbie leatherworker. After doing my own research, I ended up going with your advice and ordered a pack of (25) John James #2 (1.02mm /.0402" dia.) harness needles. In addition to asking the advice of leatherworking members here, I like to do some research myself as this helps me gather information and learn more before making a final decision on something and spending my hard-earned cash ! In addition, I just received a hank of 5-cord waxed Poly thread (24 threads, each 72" long.). I measured the diameter of this thread, using a six inch SS pocket scale and my eye-balls said it is 3/64" dia. (.047"). I'll be taper-cutting the end and rolling between thumb and forefinger to get it into the needle eye. The cost was very reasonable. I'll be consulting with an expert leatherworker next week on the best size (max. width) of diamond awl blade for hand-sewing my tool sheath, which I'm making from 12 oz. veg-tanned cowhide. I already have a haft with a 4-jaw chuck inherited from my father. I'm switching from 5 to 6 spi (spaces per inch) on the stitching, per an opinion from a Nigel Armitage video I watched and have ordered a new overstitch wheel system consisting of a haft , three spacer wheels, 5, 6 and 7 spi and a wrench. I got the system on a year-end sale, but adding the S&H and tax almost doubled the cost (Still reasonable though.) Thanks again for your help ! ToddB68

DAVIDL.........BTW, in the You Tube video "Making a Leatherworkers Clamp or Stitching Pony, by Harry Rogers, he mentions the cost as being 2 or 3 Quid. I would assume that was just for the hardware (Bolts, etc.), since he already had the glue, hand tools and power tools. Now, like we in the USA nicknamed our dollar a "Buck", the British nicknamed their pound a "Quid". So, the quid is a pound. At the current exchange rate you might expect to spend 1.64 pounds x 3 USD, or around $5.00, if you could find some free wood cut-offs as he did ! Anyhow, this would be the most economical way to go outside of someone giving you a Stitching Pony absolutely FREE ! ToddB68

Northmount .....Thanks for providing me with this hyperlinked address: http://leatherworker...ny#entry331077. .......it worked great and I got my reply post to DavidL done ! Tejas ...... Thank you for this hyperlinked address: http://leatherworker...showtopic=46490 . I made a hard copy for future reference ! ToddB68

DavidL , I found the following You Tube video, showing how to build your own Stitching Pony. This simple design would be easy to do, very low cost and you would have the pride of making it yourself ! If you are "all thumbs" when it comes to a DIY project and/or don't have the tools, perhaps a friend could help. Like they say "Where there's a will, there's a way !" Just type the following into your favorite search engine window (Google, Yahoo, etc., etc.) and make sure the volume is up enough on your speaker system. "Making a Leatherworkers Clamp or Stitching Pony, by Harry Rogers" This video was originally published on Sept. 12, 2013. Happy Holidays and Good Luck ! ToddB68

Howdy ! I saw a recent post by someone who was looking for a European leather stitching pony/horse for under $150.00 and would like to reply with a suggestion. However, after much searching I've had no luck locating the forum it was in. I looked in the Leatherworker Board > How Do I Do That ? forum and in The Business board > Getting Started forum, but didn't find it. Does anyone recall this post and where it is located in the Leatherworker.net website ? Thanks for any help you can give . ToddB68

Thanks for your reply jackd942 . I'll hang on to your information, but before making a purchase, I would still like to have a few more replies from leatherworkers who have used John James harness needles with Poly 5 cord thread to hand stitch heavy leather ; i.e. what needle size worked well for them ? ToddB64

Hi Leatherworkers ! I am a "newbie" making a sheath for a digging tool out of 12 oz. veg-tanned cowhide. I've been listening to the videos by Nigel Armitage and have decided to switch from 5 to 6 spi on this project for better appearance. That means I'll be buying another "overstitcher" (Wood handle with 6 spi spacer wheel at the end of a curved shank.). BTW, my current 5 spi tool is a Tandy no. 8079-05. Going further with Nigel's advice, I plan to buy some Poly 5 cord thread, pre-waxed, R.H. twist and some appropriate-size John James harness needles, blunt-tipped and the eye being no larger than the adjacent needle diameter (eye not bulbous), which brings me to the topic of this post....I need some advice on the appropriate John James harness needle size (diameter and length). Thanks for your help ! ; c ) Todd64

Whoops ! Forgot to attach the photo's........see below.

Hi All ! Attached are photo's of my completed Awl Blade, i.e. a full view of the awl mounted in an old haft I got from my Dad years ago, along with a side-by-side sample of the concrete nail used. Also, three sectional photo's of the completed awl blade, for close-up views. This, my first attempt at making an awl blade, turned out a little too thin in the forward section, but will still work for the leather tool sheath I'm in the process of making. I tested it and by using Bees wax on the blade, was able to push through two dry layers of 12oz. veg-tanned leather without the blade flexing. Of course, I had to take it easy and push slowly. In the future, I plan to make another blade, but it will be somewhat thicker cross-sectionally throughout the entire length. ToddB68

Dwight..............Thanks much ! Good idea and great job on the drawing. Being a carpenter by trade, I have a wood shop with all the power tools at hand to make the leather form, so I'm on my way ! I'll post a pic when it's all finished. Todd

Dwight, May God Bless you as well ! You went the "extra mile" on that reply with complete details ! Sorry I'm late replying, but have been in bed with stomach virus and too weak to get on the computer and back to this. However, feeling much better now. Your method is really nifty and I'm definitely saving a copy for some future leather project and may even adapt some of your steps on my current Tool Sheath. However, on this project, I prefer the look of hand-stitching on the outside in place of using rivets on the inside, although I must say your idea is very clever ! Attached is my rough sketch of the Tool Sheath.........after it's up on your display, you might need to Zoom-in to see all of the little "Detail" at the bottom and maybe on other areas too. This sketch was for my own use, not for public viewing, so please forgive the looks ! LOL Also, for general interest, attached are (3) photo's of the Mini-Stitching Jaws I made to fit the Craftsman Vice on my Gun stock Checkering Bench. I have leather jaw -pads made but not glued on yet. While making and testing these Mini-Jaws I found that a single spring in the middle didn't provide the right jaw alignment or counter-pressure when closing the jaws, but the double-spring idea works good. As you can see, I made some large leather washers and pushed them onto the wood dowels to prevent the ends of the springs from leaving marks.......not really necessary, but that's just me. Thanks.........I appreciate your reply very much ! Todd

Thanks funnygirl62221 ................That was outstanding and a Big help ! ToddB68

dirtclod...........Thanks for the advice ! ToddB68

Reaper...........Any chance you could post a photo of the nail described ? Thanks, ToddB68

Howdy ! I'll start with my question first for those who prefer to skip the background information below. When shaping 12oz. Veg-tanned leather over a carved wooden form, should the leather be wet or damp ? What's the usual procedure with thick leather ? I'm making a tool sheath of my own design, using 12 oz. Veg-tanned leather and the length of the cavity for the tool will be 9-1/2" long and the shape of the sheath will be rectangular (no fancy curves.). The rear leather panel that goes against my thigh will be flat in the usual manner, but I want the front panel to be bulged to create a "half-moon" cavity for the tool. At the bottom of the cavity, where the tip of the tool rests, I will glue a half-moon shaped block of 1/2" thick rubber to fill the void and drive a few Escutcheon pins through the leather into the rubber block for extra strength. I plan to glue and tack (or clamp) the side edges together, using a carved wood form to create the bulged front. After the glue has dried enough to hold the pieces together, I will remove the wood form and do the hand stitching. Naturally, I will apply the stitching grooves and run a spacing wheel in the grooves before gluing the parts together. I cut the front panel wider than the rear, to provide extra leather to form the bulge. This is my first serious leather project, so can use all the help I can get. Thanks everybody ! ToddB64