ToddB 68

Good Day ! I am a leatherwork "Newbie" and my first project will be the tool sheath shown in the attached sketch. I need help with sequencing some of the operations for making this project. FYI, I am using 12-13 oz. (.188 - .210 inch) veg-tanned cowhide leather. (Sorry, I forgot to change the sketch from 9 oz. to 12-13 oz.) All parts have been cut to size and ready to proceed with operations listed below. Below are the total operations I'm guessing will be needed and with the aid of Al Stohlmans' book The Art of Hand Sewing Leather , I think operations A through H are sequenced properly, but not sure how to sequence the balance I through R. OPERATIONS: A...Glue parts together (areas to be stitched). B...Trim edges even after glue dries. C...Add stitching grooves. D...Layout stitching holes 5 sti. E...Stab stitching holes and hand-stitch parts together. F...Use smooth-faced hammer and "tap" over all of the stitches. G...Run overstitch wheel over all stitches. H...Bevel outer edges (Craftool edge beveler #8076). I....Round & smooth edges. J....Assemble rivets at four corners. K....Assemble Tandy line 24 snap parts #1263-02 (For tool handle retainer strap). L....Apply Gum Tragacanth to edges. M...Burnish edges with Nylon edge-slicker wheel. N....Dye edges with Vinegaroon. O....Let Vinegaroon dry. P....Polish edges with Beeswax or Gum Tragacanth, using either cloth or Nylon wheel. Q....Glue rubber block into place at foot of sheath and nail with brass or stainless steel pin-tacks. R....Let glue dry on rubber foot-block, then apply "TandyPure" Neatsfoot Oil finish all over project. Thanks for the help everybody ! Todd

Greetings Leatherworker's ! To begin, I am a newbie with no experience using "leatherworking" tools. I have used low cost China-made wood tools in the past and find that they are often dull when newly purchased and require some sharpening to get good results and even then, due to inferior metal, don't hold an edge very long and require frequent tune-up. Question #1....Do the Craftool #8076 line of edge beveler's fit the above description or are they better ?? Question #2....Disregarding Brand, quality & cost, can edge beveler's be sharpened ? Thanks, Todd

Thanks much Hilly, JRedding, TkLeather1, and Wood for y'alls replies ! Todd

Dear Admin, Just wondering if you have considered adding a setting to "My Settings", to send members an E-mail Notification whenever a new post occurs in a thread that a member has previously posted in. Please advise. Thanks ! src="http://leatherworker.net/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif"> Name: Todd Brock (Username: 999A) UserName: ToddB68 IP Address: 71.171.147.237 Email Address: toddbrock@verizon.net

Dear Admin., I made a Boo-boo. Guess I need some coaching on the purpose and/or how the subject program feature works. Under the subject feature there is a little window with the question "What's on your mind ?", so I thought I could just enter my answer in the window and the program would take me to any of the posts on the list below. So, I entered "Johannas reply to equiss" (Looks like I stuttered a letter when entering her name. src="http://leatherworker.net/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/blush.gif">). Anyway, the program put my window entry on the list below......Yikes ! Can you please remove my entry from the list ? Also, as mentioned above, I need some coaching. Sorry for the trouble. Todd (Username: 999A) Name: Todd Brock (Username: 999A) UserName: ToddB68 IP Address: 71.171.147.237 Email Address: toddbrock@verizon.net

Dear friends, I'm a leatherwork newbie. Regarding casing the leather (wetting), could someone please explain to me why this process is used, in what circumstances, etc.. ? Thanks much ! Todd

Darcy, Thanks for the explanation and advice; very logical and makes good sense. Think I'll hold off buying any tools until I've talked to BD. I'm just getting started in hand sewing leather and my first project will be a sheath, made of 9oz veg-tanned cowhide, for a 12" long digging tool. I have Al Stohlman's book The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, plus all the help from members and browsing the forums on this fantastic website ! Have a great time over the upcoming holidays ! Todd

cgleather........Any idea what Bob's normal delivery time is on tools "custom-made-after-receiving-order" ? Are we talking several weeks or are we talking months ? What has your personal experience been ? Thanks, Todd

LeatherNewb here Just wondering if there is a way to determine the proper needle size to match an Awl that produces a diamond-shaped hole. I've visited several websites selling leatherworking tools, but haven't seen a match-chart or a description of how to match an Awl to a Needle, size-wise. Can anybody explain, or direct me to this information ? Perhaps it is somewhere on this website, but jeez, where ??? Thanks folks ! Todd

Hi Everyone ! I was just at www.zackwhite.com > Leatherworking Tools > Awls & Hafts. How do the blade shapes differ cross-sectionally, between the following leatherworking tools ? #1...Lacing fid #2...Stitching awl #3...Stabbing awl Thanks, Todd (Leatherwork Newbie) PS: I just realized this probably should have been posted in the Leather Tools forum. Sorry !

Jim, I'm not sure we are "on the same page". My post was regarding thread twist, as discussed in your post 10-06-2009 9:32 AM to MADMAX22, which I pasted below. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hi Simply put. Right Handed Sewers should use Right Hand S Twist and the thread will maintain it's twist as you sew.. If you use Z Left twist it will unravel as you sew. If you're a Lefty use the Z. Have a try and you'll see what happens. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I also pasted my post below for your perusal. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hi Jim ! I'm just getting started on my first leatherworking project (a complete newbie). I have designed a leather sheath for a 12" long digging tool. I have a vegetable tanned cowhide side section, approximately 9 oz. thickness and plan on hand stitching with Waxed Linen thread. I bought Al Stohlman's book titled The Art of Hand Sewing Leather , copyright 1977, and the instructions beginning on page #8 show using both hands with a needle in each hand. Since the illustrations show the right hand holding the awl, I would presume the worker is right-handed, but the left hand is also sewing with the same length of thread. Now, if that thread were a right hand S twist, that would be correct for the worker's right hand, but not correct for the worker's left hand. What will prevent the thread being sewn with the left hand from unraveling ? I'm no doubt missing something. Can you smarten me up ? Thanks, Todd _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ So Jim, with reference to my above paragraph, beginning with "I bought Al Stohlman's book........", can you answer the question, i.e. What will prevent the thread (referring to Right Hand S Twist thread), being sewn with the left hand, from unraveling ? I do appreciate your description of the 2-needle process and especially the benefits of "throwing the left thread up and over the needle", etc.. Reading and understanding your description of the process wasn't confusing, but for me, doing it might be a challenge ! lol Your new workshop sounds exciting and I will be watching for the sewing photos ! Thanks and I look forward to your reply Jim. Best Regards, Todd

Hi Jim ! I'm just getting started on my first leatherworking project (a complete newbie). I have designed a leather sheath for a 12" long digging tool. I have a vegetable tanned cowhide side section, approximately 9 oz. thickness and plan on hand stitching with Waxed Linen thread. I bought Al Stohlman's book titled The Art of Hand Sewing Leather , copyright 1977, and the instructions beginning on page #8 show using both hands with a needle in each hand. Since the illustrations show the right hand holding the awl, I would presume the worker is right-handed, but the left hand is also sewing with the same length of thread. Now, if that thread were a right hand S twist, that would be correct for the worker's right hand, but not correct for the worker's left hand. What will prevent the thread being sewn with the left hand from unraveling ? I'm no doubt missing something. Can you smarten me up ? Thanks, Todd

Thanks MADMAX22 ! I appreciate the help. I'll check out that subforum. Todd

MADMAX22, Thanks much for sharing your opinions on thread. I was recently in contact with Jim Villwock, Customer Sales Manager at the Fort Worth, Texas Tandy Leather Factory to get advice on thread for my tool sheath project and although he made no negative remarks about several other polyester threads I had asked about, the Waxed Linen (Tandy #11207) is also his favorite. He had no particular reason and said that he just liked it. I do have a question though, regarding something I just read tonight as I was studying my copy of Al Stohlman's book titled The Art of Hand Sewing Leather . This book is excellent, with good illustrations and instructions and I am very pleased with it, however, I wonder if some of the advice could be out-dated. For example, at the top-right of page #4 there is a sketch of a roll of unwaxed linen thread and the note underneath says that pre-waxed thread is not good, as proper ends cannot be made. So, in 1977, when the book was copyrighted, Al's opinion was that the unwaxed linen thread was preferable. Maybe the current day pre-waxed thread is improved. As a matter of fact, my copy of the current Tandy Buyers' Guide #184 doesn't even list unwaxed linen thread. That seems to indicate a modern day trend away from the unwaxed. Have you ever used the unwaxed and if so, what did you think of it ? Also, do you have any trouble making "proper ends" with the pre-waxed ? I look forward to your reply. Todd

Hi Dave, Thanks much for the above info.. I was looking at my 2010 Tandy catalog #184 this evening, at the different thread types shown on pages #22 and #23, and trying to decide on the right choice for my tool sheath, which will be hand sewn. I chose the following group of threads that are in the right price range for me, but could use a recommendation from someone with a lot of experience like yourself. I don't know what would be the right type of thread, i.e. what it is made of and it's working qualities, attributes, etc.. Regarding a thread color to compliment the finished sheath, I will either use a natural or neatsfoot (darkening) preservative on the leather, one or the other. But for me, the thread color is secondary to the right type of thread. My chosen group of threads from the Tandy catalog : #11207...Waxed Linen Thread, 25 yds., $6.95 #11210...Waxed Braided Cord, 25 yds., $5.99 #1220.....Tejas Waxed Thread, 4oz., $12.99 #3609.....Artificial Sinew, 20 yds., $3.99 #3613.....Braided Sinew, 20 yds., $7.99 If you think there is a better choice than what I have listed, I would appreciate your advice. Thanks again Dave ! Todd

Hi kytim I really appreciate the complementary tone of your reply and the fact that someone finally replied ! I'm new here and after a week of waiting, 68 views, but 0 replies, I was about to have an anxiety attack ! Just kidding.....LOL Anyway, I'm hoping for some critique, advice, opinions and suggestions. Can't believe there's no room for improvement on my ideas. Thanks for lookin in though. Todd

Greetings ! I requested a Tandy catalog on their website and am anxiously awaiting it's arrival. Being a beginner at leather work, I am naturally interested in learning about the different hand tools, the intended purpose of each and how it should be used. Does the Tandy catalog give descriptive information of this type ? Or would I be better off buying a book ? If so, can anyone recommend a good one ? Thanks, Todd

Hi Phillip Looks like you & I are running just about neck and neck with our posts, 50 + views and 0 replies ! LOL I think your idea is really a good one and can't figure why none of the old timers have responded. Are they gittin stingy with tips & advice, or are they just too tired to crunch out a detailed post ? Wish I could help you, but I'm still a newbie trying to learn. If you want to take a look, my post is here: Leatherworker Board > How can I do that ? > Need advice on Making Utility tool sheath (Oct. 12, 2009). Good Luck with yours. Todd

Art, Thanks for the reply and the funny! LOL Todd

Hi Leatherbuddies ! Newbie here. Thinking of making my first batch of Vinegaroon, using steel wool and vinegar. Just curious how long it will remain potent. Thanks, Todd

Hi Everyone ! I'm a Newbie to leather work, although have made a few simple tool pouches in the past using brass rivets (no stitching experience.). One of my hobbies is metal detecting and I made a digging tool for recovering lost coins, jewelry and relics at public parks, etc.. This tool can deal with rocks that occasionally get in the way, without bending or breaking. Attached are photos of the tool and drawing of a leather sheath I would like to make for it. This will be my first serious leather project. I have a large piece of tanned cow hide, light tan colored. It appears to be a side section, is stiff, and the thickness around the edges varies from .140" to .210", as measured with a micrometer. I believe the nominal leather weight would be considered 9 oz. . I plan to glue and stitch the pieces together by hand, adding a reinforcing rivet at each of the upper corners. I have ordered a book on stitching, titled The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, by Al Stohlman, to get ideas on different types of stitching. I am shooting for a plain, but pleasing, appearance, no decorations, except I would like the edges of the completed sheath to be slightly rounded, dyed black and polished to a soft shine. After the sheath is completed, I may use neatsfoot oil as a preservative, however, since this will darken the leather, I might decide to use a non-darkening preservative to retain the natural light tan color of the leather; this might give a more attractive contrast with the black dyed and polished edges. I like both appearances, but undecided right now. The floor of the sheath is a hard rubber block for the tip of the tool to rest on. I would shape the rubber for a snug fit inside the leather after construction of the sheath is completed , then glue and nail the block in place, using small brass round-headed pin-nails. The block will be made from two thickness of 1/4" thick rubber belting, which I have on hand, glued together. All surfaces to be glued will be roughened with sandpaper for good bonding. I am wondering if I should integrate an over-strap with a snap, at the upper end of the tool handle, so the tool doesn't flop around in the open cavity of the sheath. If so, I guess the fixed end of the over-strap would be best anchored with a single rivet, rather than sewn. Looking for opinions, advice and/or criticisms, to help me through this project. Thanks much guys & dolls ! Todd