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mrtreat32

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Posts posted by mrtreat32

  2. Posted · Report reply

    The baby calf is really awesome. I actually prefer it slightly to the box calf they have for the type of stuff I like to make (wallets, small leather goods). It is thin about 2oz but the temper is firm enough that it will hold up well for interior pockets on wallets and stuff like that. It could even work as the outside panel on a wallet if you doubled it up or lined it with another leather. It also comes in a lot of really nice colors. (someone on another forum said the baby calf they have isn't d'annonay but from another french tannery. they were told this over the phone by amelia I believe). Either way its super nice so I don't care if its not a big name.

    The box calf is really nice as well. Super firm temper! Very rigid for how thick it is. Comes in less colors and is a bit more than the baby calf.

    And they also sent me samples of the milled calf which feels amazing but it much too soft for anything I make. Would be great for bags I suppose or garments.

    I have calf from charles hardtke as well that I ordered before the site shut down and I actually slightly prefer it to the calf from d'annonay and was around $8 sf! Too bad that site isn't around anymore.

    And the stuff at fineleatherworking is very nice but they are marking it up considerably since they will sell you half a hide and smaller amounts. Im pretty sure the calf they have is the same as the one from Amelia. And the goatskin they have I can find cheaper as well. Only thing they offer that I don't have a source for is the German shrunken calf.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the response. Yeah I have ordered baby calf and french calf from that contact before. Prices are reasonable but I think $14sf for french calf last time I checked. The colors on hide house look similar to the d'annonay calf so was wondering if there was a chance its the same product. Or something equally as good.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Has anyone ever ordered this and do you know what tannery they source it from. I called Hide house and the lady I spoke with said they weren't allowed to give out the tannery info which I understand on certain products.

    The price is very good for french calf and I was curious about the quality and if it could possibly be d'annonay or another one of the big names from france. thanks

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Yes david this is sometimes why I prick from the inside out. I stitch mostly at 9spi so sometimes there is really no avoiding a tiny rip on the top of a pocket since the gap between each tooth is so small. IMO its hardly noticeable though with the very small stitching.

    I also vary it depending on the color of wallet Im working on. I make a lot of items with different color interior/exterior so if the color of the thread matches one particular side I have that side as the back since small imperfections will blend in a bit more. If the stitching is high contrast I try to make sure that side shows on the front since it is very unforgiving.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Very nice! Beautiful stitch work. And those edges...Wow!...I'm with billybopp...I would be interested to hear/read your particular method.

    thanks guys.

    The black wallet pictured I only used sand paper and fenice edge paint. There is another thread I made on this forum about having fenice edge paint not adhere as strongly as I wanted so it was recommended that I not apply any saddle soap or any other products that might stop it from holding onto the leather as strongly.

    So for this wallet I sanded down and used 1000grit sandpaper. I than applied a layer of fenice edge paint. When that was completely dry I sanded down any bumps with 1000 grit and than applied another layer. I did this 3 times. When that was dry I applied a clear gloss coat (angelus brand) let that dry and finally rubbed on some parafin was which I than buffed with a piece of scrap denim.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Your process is the problem.

    Don't approach edge paint with the same technique as you would for burnishing raw veg-tan leather. If you are using saddle soap, waxes, oils, or gum, this will not only seal the pores of the leather (which will not give the paint something to hold onto), but the oils and waxes will repel the water based paint. Alcohol and oil dyes are designed to penetrate. Edge paints are designed to cover.

    With this in mind, I have found the best process would be...

    • STEP 1 - Base Coat
      • You need to build up a smooth sealed surface, so the first step would be apply the primer (AR6250) or color coat to the raw leather edge and let it dry.
      • Think of this as a primer coat on a car paint job.
    • STEP 2 - Burnish / Smooth the Edge (i.e. sanding the primer)
      • You can use a burnishing machine (or sand by hand with fine paper) or hot glazing process, depending on the type of leather.
      • Burnishing is recommended for firm leathers such as veg tan, while hot glazing (with hot irons) is better for soft leathers like chrome tan.
    • STEP 3 - Color Coat
      • Build up your layers, paint & burnish until you are happy with the finish.
    • FINAL STEP
      • Apply a final color layer and let dry - or -
      • Use the AR6350P or UW series clear coat to seal if desired

    Our company imports and distributes Fenice Edge paints (since 2006) as well as the machines for factory use.

    We have a wider variety of colors and options than Tandy, and our prices are even better.

    Since we haven't been advertising on the site I try not to jump in with self promotions.

    With interest in this paint picking up maybe its time I get in touch Johanna.

    thanks for such detailed feedback. I am trying this right now on a new wallet.

    I sanded the edges and used a 1000grit sandpaper as my final step and than applied a layer of the paint. I am waiting for this to dry completely so I can sand it down a bit and than I will apply another layer as you suggested. I have a feeling its going to adhere better.. I put a bit of the paint on a scrap piece of leather a few days ago and without typical burnishing process it seems to adhered much stronger.

    The one drawback so far has been the applying of the first layer was a bit more complicated and messy since I wasnt working with a super smooth edge like previously. Do you think after the final sanding it would be ok to next time use just plain water and canvas before applying the paint? I assume since the paint is water based this should still allow it to hold very strong and give me a better edge to work with?

    Thanks again for such a comprehensive response and I will be placing my next paint order through your site.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I think the smoother the edge is finished the coating just peels and chips because it has nothing to hold on to, but to heavy and it chips easier.

    This could be but I was smoothing the edge underneath so that the paint on top would sit even across the piece and look as professional as possible. When I leave the edge more raw and apply it you can see the bumps through the top coat. Unless I put it on super heavy to compensate for anything underneath not being smooth?

    Not really sure

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Really nice. Well executed and perfect stitching. Are both sides the same? Will you trade one for a 12 of Narragansett?

    Bill

    Thanks! No the back side doesn't have any pockets. just 2 in the front and one on top. Is there a way to post more pictures in a reply? I only see the option when making a new topic.

    Haha. I would maybe trade for a 12 pack but Im partners in a small bar/restaurant so I have unlimited Narragansett at my disposal!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I forgot to mention that the scrap piece where I am testing it with better results I did not slick the edge. On actual projects I am using saddle soap, water, and a bit of quick slick from Sheridan before applying the paint. I wipe that down before applying the paint but maybe that application is preventing the paint from adhering as well as I would like.

    Angelus leather paints and others I have used haven't been a problem applying after that process.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I was just thinking about ordering some Fenice edge paint.. but this has me reconsidering. Has anyone else had a problem with it peeling off? I was not planning to use dye under it, just a good sanding and a heated iron to set it, done twice.

    Doug C

    Im not saying its bad edge paint by any means. I really like the results as far as looks are concerned but I have had trouble with it peeling off so far. It is a very popular paint and has a good reputation so there is probably a trick to working with it more effectively.

    I am experimenting on a piece of scrap leather at the moment and trying thinner coats. After I let that dry completely I tried peeling it off and it seemed to be a lot more permanent and harder to remove that way. I scraped it with my finger nail to see how it would hold over time if someone was using it as a wallet for example where the friction of removing it from a denim pocket might wear it down. Before I was applying it pretty thick and that seemed to make it softer and more susceptible to wearing off.

    Im not saying what Monica said is not true but from what I have gathered so far it does not penetrate the leather at all. Maybe her method includes burning it on or some other process that Im not aware of. I have tried it on a few types of leather and after drying if you peel it off the color of the leather is completely untouched by the paint from what I see. Even on lighter color leathers such as a natural veg tan when removed the leather underneath looks completely fine afterwards and barely stains the leather at all..which could be a good thing as well if you made a mistake and needed to remove it? She said she is using a neutral color also so maybe its a different formula?

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I actually bought the neutral colored fenice paint and mixed in black edge kote (b/c I wanted it to be black in color). It turned out that the combination of both of them worked better than either one by itself.

    I was actually considering doing a coat of the Edge Kote that way the leather is dyed and than going over it with the Fenice. That way if it peels off at least it will still be painted underneath. Maybe a similar result to what you got by mixing them.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Just recently started using fenice edge paint (tandy pro) and I have been super happy with the results. My edges are looking much smoother but there is one big catch. I have been carrying a few of my recent wallet prototypes that I used the Fenice paint on and 2 of them have areas with the edge peeling off (mostly on areas where the leather bends). I was wondering if anyone who uses this paint has any tips to make this edge paint last.

    The areas where it peeled off are completely natural color underneath. This paint looks great but doesnt seem to penetrate into the leather at all. Seems to sit completely on top.

    I just took some edge kote and the fenice and painted the edges of some scrap leather to compare how they dry and if they both peel off in the same way. I preferred the fenice results aesthetically in the beginning but Im under the impression that the edge kote actually dyes and penetrates the leather while the fenice just sits on top.

    Looking forward to any tips or hearing from others with more experience using edge finishes.

    thanks

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I read some topics awhile back on here discussing manual and electric clickers for cutting out leather using dies. I am not yet at the point in my leather production that I want to shell out that type of money ($1300 for a manual clicker) seems to be the going rate?

    I recently came across a leatherworker on my instagram feed who uses dies and mentioned he uses a arbor press to cut them out. This seems like it would be too obvious and cheap of a solution. I have never used a clicker so I have no hands on experience with one. What do they offer that a arbor press does not? I would assume the cutting area is much bigger? anything else?

    BTW I make mostly small leather goods and use calfskin and other leathers usually 2-5oz. The guy on my instagram feed makes thicker bridle and veg tan wallets which look like 6-7oz pieces from what I can tell. For the leather thickness I am using would this work?

    I am curious if anyone can tell me the drawbacks and what benefit I would get from a actual manual clicker.

    Look forward to hearing anyones feedback

    thanks

  24. Posted · Report reply

    HI guys,

    So I'm about to start in on a billfold, and I have heard that the outside layer of the bill fold is usually oversized slightly so as to allow for the pocket to open up a bit for retrieving cash.

    About how much longer should I make this outside piece?

    Thanks

    The inner panel I make usually 1/2" shorter than the outside panel. That is the standard that works most of the time for me and I adjust from there depending on the style of wallet

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Its 18 per square foot from Annonay and 15 after 5 skins right? I think thats a good price since the price of shipping from france or italy is already calculated. Any one know the real square foot price is if you were able to buy it from the tannery?

    Im interested in Japanese leathers, however there isn't any that openly sell on the web.

    Also hard to find leather trade shows information and where they gather.

    Yes around $18. I didnt get the price on 5 or more skins so Im not sure. Agree I don't think the price is terrible if you include the shipping.

    If I was selling more items on a consistent basis I would have no problem buying 5 or more but at the moment Im not busy. Hopefully soon!

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