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My friend has a Chinese manufactured Typical Model Number GC20665L14D Does anyone know what machine it is a clone of? I’ve searched the internet without success. Any reply much appreciated. Gary

Constabulary, I had previously Googled that thread before I placed my problem on this forum. Sounds good but I think he is in America and I am in Australia. However, the diamond foot idea is attractive. I see someone asked him in 2020 if they were still available but he didn’t reply. Want to tell my respondents that my machine is going beautifully now thanks to your inputs. Previously, I was having slight resistance to start sewing ie., turning the hand wheel easily on that first stitch. Now that problem has disappeared, due to, I think, pressure that is no longer on the foot and the fact that the gib is now positioned correctly with the wedge that allows more movement in the foot action. Also, before the adjustment, the stitch length regulator was wanting to slip down while sewing if I did not have the screw done up extra tight. Thanks so much.

Okay Bob, I’ll do that.

Thanks for picking that up Constabulary; you’re a champion. My machine obviously came with it upside down.

Thanks Cowboy Bob for your information. Also to Northmount for schooling me on compressing photos.

Recently purchased a 29K71. Despite having what I think is the rod (see photo), that controls the pressure of the walking foot, screwed as far down as possible it is still digging into the Kangaroo hide. Unable to determine if the pressure foot is a genuine Singer part. Is there any other possible solutions to adjusting the pressure? Reluctant to file the teeth on the bottom of the pressure foot. Unfortunately, I could not upload photos as file size exceeded what’s allowed.

Finally the photos!

Attaching photos of a very interesting 12 strand rectangular braided bell collar. Bought at a market in Australia 35 years ago and the seller said it was from Botswana. Is there anyone who may be able to explain the braiding process or have an illustrated Guide? How is the rawhide treated by them prior to braiding? Would love to hear of any information.

Thanks Rahere. Those Oblong Eyelets seem to have very limited manufacturers. The Stimson hand setting tool is a bit over USD 1000 and that price sure rocked my socks. I would have to make a number of goods that could use the oblong eyelet to justify it’s purchase. Don’t know if they are made in the Asian market. I assume you are more UK based as I checked out Leprovo and Batchelor. Could not find anything on Batchelor’s website. A screw version would be good, but I find it hard to find such an item on the internet. If you or any other members could point me in the right direction, I sure would appreciate it. Gary

Thanks Rahere. I made an Enquiry at Stimpson’s following your reply. A bit shocked to learn of the cost of the hand setting tool. Probably great quality though

Please see attached photo. I am wondering what name the metallic rectangular item with the round corners has. Who would stock these items? As the postage to Australia from America is exorbitant, I would like to source one locally, if possible. Thanks in advance for any help.

Oh, that site has a lot of information on a whole lot of machines and brands. Thanks again Glenn.

Thanks very much Glenn. I’ll check out that site. Gary

Thanks Wizcrafts. You are so generous with your time answering forum questions. The parts manual is good but still looking for a downloadable instruction manual.

Trying to find a manual for either of the above machines. Can’t seem to find one on the internet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Gary

Thanks so much for your replies. At least I have now found out why the thread was getting broken in the bobbin area; it was a tension thing. The spindle that holds the thread spool is quite a bit smaller than the inside diameter of the thread spool. Also it was sitting on a small disc of a type of felt. I took that away and put in its place a small leather disc the size of the outside diameter of the thread reel. Before, it seems, the reel was binding and then would pull around quickly and that was the root of my problems. Now I have nice even tension coming off the reel. Think I will turn a piece of timber and slide it over the spindle so that the diameter of the inside of the reel matches the spindle more closely. Now I need to investigate why I cannot pick up the bottom thread when I fill the bobbin. At the moment I am cheating by pushing the thread up through the needle plate myself. Shoepatcher, I did buy a new Towa shuttle hook and matching carrier. Previously I have been able to pick up the bobbin thread after I replaced them but now it does not want to pick up the thread, but there is nothing wrong with sewing things. It is just picking up the bobbin thread when I have renewed it. As Kohlrausch and Constabulary pointed out it maybe a needle placement thing but then again I have not changed the needle position either. Is there a Youtube video around that shows how the patcher hook operates?

I understand what you are saying but the machine was sewing beautifully, why did it change all of a sudden. Hook tip is new and needle is in same position . Why would the timing change? Also the thread is snapping off in the bobbin area. Could you please elaborate.

Codes on the bottom of the reel are:- 5087 T32 N4067. Can you make any sense out of them? Of course they are Australian codes.

I have been replacing the sewing thread in those tiny bobbins for sometime now. Yesterday, I changed to a slightly larger thread, but one I know is suitable for the machine and which sews perfectly. Tonight, when I renewed the bobbin thread it does not want to pick it up from below, despite many attempts. I am doing it as per the manual and as I have previously done. Any suggestions?

I had some scrap timber lying around and the other day decided to make a table. Here is the finished project.

My new shuttle carrier (82177), an engraved Singer part, arrived today and I installed it straight away. To my delight the machine sewed beautifully with no more broken threads. I did have to do a minor adjustment to thread tension but that was all. Attached are photos of the old shuttle carrier, where you will note that the dome on the shuttle carrier spring is worn a bit flat and there are some ridges on the underside of the carrier as well. I am very happy as the next step was to take it to a sewing machine mechanic. The cost was around AUD 52-00 for the new part. Hope this post may help others that have threads breaking in the shuttle area.

Thanks for replying GrampaJoe. The plaited length is about 5 foot. i do not know what you called the leather in the USA but here is a description from a tannery:- "Red Hide Colours :- Red! Weight Range :- 3mm 4.5mm Description :- An Alum based tanned leather that is traditionally dyed red in colour. Heavily oiled to provide a softer more durable product. Used when a low stretch strong leather is required. Messy to work with as the red dye does continue to bleed out of the leather while being worked. (As it does when playing cricket.) Ideal for whips, plaiting, reins, repairs etc." The tannery I got it from years ago, got closed down due to enviromental controls as the suburbs grew into their area. They used to import a chemical from India that they added to the tanning process. Their redhide skins were favoured by whipmakers because the leather had a bit more stretch in it.

My grandson who is ten years old, asked if I could make him a whip. I have not made a whip for about 25 years and only had an old hide that was around 40 years old. So I went down to the workshop and came up with the article photographed below. It is only a four strand whip and the handle is made of Toheti cane. To add a bit of extra weight to the handle for balance purposes, I turned a hardwood hand grip on my wood lathe, drilled in out and glued it over the handle. He is learning to crack it but gets frustrated. I told him it is all to do with the wrist action, but he is trying too hard and is yet to master it.