cybertracy

Good idea, thanks for sharing that! That sounds like the most realistic yet . . . I'll have to find his videos, I get a lot of requests for pawprints.

Hi, I work at Tandy and we had the same problem (as well as one other store I'm aware of), but it was specifically one of the posts (bottom-most) on one certain letter (I think it was "P"). We reordered several times for a customer who brought it to our attention but had the same problem with the replacements. The customer was desparate and really couldn't wait through another unsuccessful retry so I used a woodburning tool to carefully heat up the thread area of the concho and slowly screwed in the screw (heat screw about 1/2 turn, heat, 1/2 turn, etc) This worked to get the screw in, I let it cool and it came in and out fine after that. I tried the same technique on all the rest of the P's we had with pretty good success. Check your alphabet conchos and if you find any of the same defects take them back to your local store and ask for replacements. If you cannot spare the time and need them right away, try the above technique--if it fails to work still take them back for replacements. I understand these conchos are not cheap (price-wise) and no one should expect to have to reinvent ways to get them to work--so returning them for replacements might prompt upper management to call it to the manufacturer's attention and perhaps more care will be taken all around.

thanks troy! love the dog tut.

you'll find an awesome hat tutorial here (as well as a bunch of other great stuff). Also Beaverslayer did a great hat how to

i, too, prefer the paw itsefj to be beveled on the inside (cuts down on the amt of background stamping) and I normally dye the paw print several shades to the darkside--looks like the beast actually walked across my project w/out first wiping his feet.

Ziploc-type baggie. Put the lace in cover w/dye and carefully "burp" out the air. Mush it around to cover completely then hold a corner of the bag over the bottle and snip it off to empty most all the dye back into the bottle. I remove the lace and rinse, then (still wearing gloves) I rub human hair conditioner into the tangled lace to detangle and hang to dry. Once dry run the lace between a folded piece of sheep wool to "buff" out the un-soaked in conditioner.

go in and sligtly rearrange her sewing room, kitchen, vanity, scrapbooking supplies, the area she considers "her" domain after (or during) one of her visits. . .

sun (the one in the sky) tanned for a few hours then sealed

in the meantime, return the groover (regardless of what you've done with the blade) to Tandy's and get a replacement. I agree with the Versa fans about an outstanding groover, but Tandy's should do an adequate job out of the bag. Did you get the adjustable groover or the saddlemaker's groover? The saddlemakers is a tad heavier duty and all-around works better. Tandy will either replace your current one (try the replacement in the store to be sure it's sharp) or give you credit toward something else.

the ink jet (overhead projector transparencies) work ok, you just have to make sure you put the side that doesn't have the emulsion that makes it possible for ink jets to print (the side with the tape) on the wet leather This means you have to be creative if you have text or 2-sided patterns, and print in reverse, but I used them for quite a while until I discovered transparencies for COPIERS. They are cheaper, print out immediately waterproof (even on the printed side) and the ink didn't scratch off when I used an ink pen to transfer the pattern. I just planed ahead and take my stuff to Kink's until I was given an old laser copier I was able to repair, which takes the copier transparencies just fine. I like them because they are very durable and can be used over & over, even when punching sewing holes, and as the name suggests, very transparent so if you pattern moves on you and you need to reposition it's foolproof. The cost is about $30 for 120 sheets.

Also consider the weld on some of the craftools may come apart if too much pressure is applied to the tip while wire brushing. I was warned to keep the tool as cool as possible when using a fine wire wheel to buff off the chrome. I had some luck using a stainless steel wire brush with a dremel (without heating the tool), but it took a VERY long time to get it naked. I'll try the torch method, if I brake a few they are cheap to replace (hence the problem in the first place!) Thank you Trav & all for this topic.

I too was told by a sadllemaker in my area to improve my Tandy tools I should remove the chrome. He suggested a light wire brush keeping the tool cool by dipping it frequently in water, but if anyone has a better suggestion (I'm a bit leary of the bench grinder on these tools) I would be ever so grateful!

I've had good luck with the ProRotary--for the price (especially on sale) it's well worth it. My straps a piece of leather between the anvil and what he's punching (he claims it saves the tubes) but I don't have the patience and I just replaced my tubes with the ASB versions (they fit) after about 2 1/2 years. For quick 1/2 doz punch jobs I'll grab the ProRotary, but anything more a drive punch is best. I also have an Osborne, and yes it's heavier duty (as is the price). Depends on the amount of use you plan. PS: i'm a REAL newbe, but I've found a lot of what I first thought dull was just a blade or tube in need of a good polish (strop, clean, etc). I'm not saying the more experienced members would make the same mistake, but I was ready to give up leatherwork because I couldn't get the silly plastic lacemaker to work (no moving parts, no instructions, so it HAS to be simple right!?!?). I traveled 1 1/2 miles through LA traffic to the closest Tandy and it was simply the razor blade supplied needed a stropping--so beginners, if you're having trouble with something right out of the box or it dulls waytoofast. . .strop before trash.

I purchased the electrician's and carpenter's tool belt patterns from Bighousedaddy and they're great starting patterns and easy to follow. Good foundation to then customize your own. Big plus you buy them and download them instantly.

this may have been posted in the past. . but it's an awsome video. my kids came across me sitting at my workbench, getting ready to tool some leather and watching this, and after some ruthless teasing, are seriously thinking of scheduling a leather intervention after the holidays (and all their requested gifts are finished!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOu9pETRC4s enjoy, tracy

Hi Froghunter, Glad to hear your classes are going well, it's a Tandy store right? I just started working at a newer store in California with a new management and we'd also like to see our classes grow. Can I pm you with some questions on how you do yours? Awesome lamps. tracy

Wow, thanks Bum, it's a great start & with a lot of trial (and error) can probably adapt to other animals. Ha, reindeer just in time for Christmas! again, thanks for the pattern.

would be awsome to have the patterns for the young kids who accompany their older siblings during the classes we give! thanks in advance (ps I pm'd you regarding same) again, thanks!

I find if I have to 'spot' clean any leather (glue goof, oil, dirt, etc) doing an all-over oxalic bath evens out the absorbtion of the finish. What color/type of finishing are you planning on doing?

i have seen a steer in this same pattern as well, just disremember where. . . I'll try to track down a pic. Has anyone checked perhaps adapting orgami-type patterns or kids punch & fold paper books?

what size leather? String, strap, belt-width, wider? How much are you trying to split (thickness)?

awsome site! I've always looked forward and really liked when you posted your work on this site, but seeing it all together on your website gives me an entirely new appreciation for how talented you are.

I would spend some $$ right away and buy the wholesale club card at Tandy. In fact, ask the store manager where you are if you can use your 40% before 9am right to get the club price discounted. Even if you pay full price, you will make it back the first couple of leather purchases and you will always get awesome sales in addition to the discounted regular price. If you cannot go to the store, perhaps the manager will let you call in a purchase or leave a list an call in with the payment on Thursday or Friday. You'll probably get many different answers, but as a newbie just figuring out what she'd have done different, I can at least share that with you. I would not again get the "shortcut" combo tools such as the adjustable creaser, the stitch marker with the 3-in-1 interchangeable wheels, the mini/maxi hole punches etc... I am slowly now replacing them with dedicated, well-built tools (single wheel stitch markers, round drive punches, etc. Figure out what weight you'll most be using and begin with the single tools in the size you'll most need. The above-mentioned may be fine for an occasional hobbiest, but it sounds like you are going to do quite a bit of work. The adjustable groovers (get the saddlemaker's one if you do buy one) are ok, and I've used creasers to scribe stitch lines on edges, but if I had to pick only one tool to do edge scribing I would get the Osborne TL34 Scratch Compass. Also, I went through many cutting devices (rotary, expensive shears, util & x-acto knives) before I got my hands on a round knife. Once I saw how awesome they work (with practice of course) I'm dissappointed when I have to use anything else. Invest in a good round knife (I actually find the stohlman, once sharpened is great) at 45% of and you can almost replace your skiver, bevler, scissors and rotary (straight line) cutter on most jobs. things I use on almost every job: round knife, edger, slicker, stitch marker and punch, needle, thread. Another good purchase at the sale would be the Craftool Deluxe snap/rivet setter set (about $25 regular price) and with few exceptions you'll be able to do most hardware, and the quality of the tools is far better than the other sets they have. If you are going to carve, that adds another big list...(and I'll let more experienced carvers try that one) but since you don't sound like you'll do much sheridan-style, I've found that a few bevelers checked and smooth do the trick on most of the celtic knot designs I've made, and a good matter/backgrounder (I suggest the pebbler from hidecrafter). Also, I wish I would have bought the Leathercraft Tools book first and foremost--I still find it invaluable. PS: I couldn't wait until I could afford a fancy letter stamp set, which I did on one of the sales, but I've used it only once--I find I download and carve most of my lettering. Last but not least, utilize your Tandy store! Most managers are very happy to have beginners come in with questions--and you can set up a time to come in and try out most of the tools & such before you buy (including the round knife). I will go in with a scrap from a project and try a sample of any dye or finish at the store before I purchase and entire bottle to find it's not what I need. Good luck and welcome to a craft where you need tools, even for your tools!

Tandy in Ventura is having the same sale, and the freebies apply even if you use all your coupons. The managers have been encouraged to have their own specials for the sale as well, and to stock up on the sale items. It seems they want this to be an annual "thanks" that the regular shoppers & wholesale members can depend on. do your math though, some of the specials, freebies and coupons will net you better than 40% off regular price. If so, buy non-sale items and take advantage of the early-bird price or the coupon, then get your sale/special items separately.