rcsaddles

I am in the process of braiding a 6 ft roo hide stockwhip that I purchased a kit from Mike Murphy in Australia. I don't have the time or inclination to make one form scratch at this point in time. This came with a booklet, Whipmaking book two by Ron Edwards. I would recommend getting any book by Ron that has anything about whips in it. He does a great job on instructions. www.ramsskullpress.com I know this only tells you to buy a book. I'm sure someone here will be able to do the tutorial and I will also like to see that for more info and techniques. Via con Dios, Joe

If you look at the post "quik question" I have posted how I make rawhide. I tried to copy and paste but did not work. I'm too lazy to type it all again. Joe

When I braid, either flat or round, I pull the string tight before I bring it across. As for even tension, I did not even think about it until my rawhide instructor asked how I braide so even. If I think about it while braiding I will pull harder with the left even though I am right handed. Sometimes things work for some people and not for others. Via con Dios, Joe

I do not claim to be an expert on the subject but will give you my process. I lay out a fresh hide on the ground. If the hide is not fresh, soak it in water until it is pliable. I then start in the middle of the hide and cut a strap about an inch and a quarter wide. I use a utility knife that I change the blade in about three times per hide. Once the strap is cut, I stretch it between two posts. Pull as tight as possible and then take a rope in the middle and pull to a post of anything to one side to get more stretch out if the strap. Then I take my pocket knife, sharpen it and use it to scrape the hair off. Careful not to cut the scarf skin that holds the hair to the skin as this is where much of the strength is. There is no bad smell, only takes about an hour to scrape a strap that is over 100 feet long. This may seem like a lot of work but the rawhide has a lot of life and works great. I have only used this method so I do not know how it compares to using lime to make the hair slip. In that process,, you are basically waiting for the epidermis to rot so the hair falls off. In case you are wondering, look in the Bruce Grant books for a Mary Fields from Bonanza, Oregon. She is in his books making a reata. When I met her she had made 90 reatas. She taught me her way of making rawhide. Told me she could show me all the mistakes. Honestly, I have not tried any other way of working rawhide. I hope this helps. Via con Dios, Joe

I started making and braiding rawhide in "93". Mary Fields, who is in some of the Bruce Grant books was my teacher. I use white saddle soap on my rawhide while braiding and have not washed it off. My first reata is hanging in the shop and has had no ill effects of the saddle soap that I can see. I started braiding roo lace belts while in Australia in "88". I also use the white saddle soap on the strings while braiding. Again, no ill effects that I can see in any of the belts I have made. I use the yellow saddle soap to "wash and clean" saddles and tack and plenty of water to rinse. Then I let the item dry and oil. As a side question, what do you all use for oil? I keep hearing to use olive oil as it will not darken leather or come off on your clother like neatsfoot. I have used both and have not noticed a lot of difference other than the neatsfoot darkens the leather a bit. Just a little food for thought. Via con Dios Joe

If it is not too late, I would like to be on the list also. Let me know when you are ready and I will give you all my info. Joe

Try talking to Ron at ferdco.com They make machines and also have a place on their web site for people to sell equipment. Ron has done nothing but good for me. He has talked me through problems with my two Adlers over the phone. Very knowledgable and will help you get the best for your money and for what you need. Joe

I began braiding leather belts while in Australia in 1988. I started with Bush Leatherwork by Ron Edwards. In 1993 I met Mary Fields who is in the Bruce Grant book, Encyclopedia of Rawhide book. She taught me everything I know about rawhide. Grants books are hard to follow when you start to braid the buttons and such. I would have to give my vote to any Ron Edwards books for learning to plait or braid. His instructions and drawings are easy to follow. He has drawn his pictures so all steps for each pass are flat instead of three pictures for one pass. You can check on www.ramsskullpress.com to see a description of his books. I hope you find a book that can get you started. You can also do a group search in Yahoo and look at the Marlinspikeknotworks group. Robert Black has some DVDs out that are easy to follow for Turks heads.

Bill Gomer now lives in Highland, Kansas. About 40 miles west of St. Joseph, Missouri. I spent a week with him in January of this year and did a leather carving class. I am a novice carver and wanted some direction and had the opportunity to make the trip. His phone number is 785-442-3048. If anyone here contacts him tell him you got his number from Joe in Montana. He is a friend and would like to know how people find him. Nothing in it for me. Via con Dios, Joe

I see that no one has answered you unless it was by pm. I live in Montana and I know shopping hi a little high but if you don't find someone in the area I have two sewing machines. I can sew from single layer of 5oz to 3/4 inch thick. Actually I can sew canvas also. I would be willing to work with you on getting some things done or let me know and I can send you a sample of some sewing. Joe