bcurrier

Beautiful, just beautiful.

Maybe you are, given that a lot of people are making holsters and heavy gear with needle feed machines. (Most are technically compound or unison feed, though). I suspect most such gear is made with compound feed machines. So, where's the "need"? Compound feed machines work well, deliver a very nice stitch, and are far more flexible in terms of setup and range of capabilities. The latter items are critical considerations for non-professional users. "Cost aside" doesn't really work as an argument when the price difference is multiples.

Can you give details on the setup? For example, how many and what type of batteries (e.g., gel, ratings/size), are you running an inverter, or using a DC motor, etc.

That's a very unusual table setup for a cylinder bed. Did you buy it that way?

Maybe a nice oil and wax finish, then? I like how the lacing stands out on the light leather. Shame to lose the contrast to a dark dye.

I have to say I really like the plainer new seat even better than the tooled seat. I like it lighter, too. Very refined looking and beautiful workmanship.

Just to be clear, the extras mentioned are NOT included in the price of a machine with Artisan. The stand, positioning motor, feet, etc. are all optional accessories, as they are with Ferdco and other suppliers, for that matter. Bill

If unease is part of the decision - whether it's repairs, general support, setup, applications, whatever - then your best bet is to find a good local supplier of industrial equipment that can support you. Consult with them on your proposed uses and buy what they carry and recommend. Industrial equipment is not only specialized, it tend to lack flexibility as a result. If you don't know how to deal with that (mostly meaning adjustments) you'll need local support. There's plenty of posts here and elsewhere that will attest to that - typically lots of frustration about broken needles, timing problems, messy and broken stitches, and that sort of thing. Bill

The Yamata machine you show is a lighter-duty machine. You might see it compared to heavier class heads because of its cylinder bed, but it's not a 441-type and doesn't have the same capabilities. The lift, for example, is only about 1/2", the needle bar stroke is shorter, the components are lighter, and can't sew heavier threads than 207. If its capacities meet your needs, by all means go for it - they're a lot less money than a 441 type - but if I were looking for a lighter machine, I'd also look at the Juki DSC 240. Bill

Very original, and bandsaw blades are really tough (should hold up). How is he sharpening them? Seems the problem would be to keep a level surface.

The leathercraft tools book sold by Tandy shows a punch with a spring-loader center finder. I've never seen one offered for sale, though. You would just place the point on your mark, press the punch edge down to your work, and whack it in normal fashion.

It's beautifully done. A question or two, though - the belt looks unusually wide (could be an illusion due to the small cartridges, I guess). How wide do most of you make your gunbelts and billets (for ranger types, that is)? Bill

I placed the order with Artisan today for a 4000R, including heavy duty stand, various feet, blanket set, holster plate, swing out guide, extra needles, bobbins, and some thread ... and the new needle positioning motor. Turns out I'll be the first customer out of the gate on the motor. While normally I might be a bit concerned about that, in Artisan's case I'm willing to give it a try due to their stellar reputation. As an FYI, Artisan's current shipment is held up in customs (Homeland Security inspection) and is not expected to be released until next week. This includes their first shipment of the new needle positioning motor. The synchronizers that enable the positioning haven't been shipped yet, but the motor functions as a normal servo motor without it. The HP of the positioning motor is also slightly higher (5/8ths) vs. Artisan's standard servo motor (1/2). I don't expect to have the machine for about 2 weeks. I'll post results when it's here! Bill

My thoughts exactly and the subject of another thread. I'm calling Artisan today for pricing on a 4000 (with accessories) today, though. I'm leaning toward Artisan, but am looking at competing machines (clones) locally also. Any of the larger industrial sewing suppliers can come up with branded, off-branded, unbranded, misc., new or used clones for any machine type. The honest ones will actually tell you what they think of them. One local dealer brings in an Adler 205-370 knock-off that he likes (and sells for about $1500 less than the Adler), for example, and often has one on the floor setup and sewn-off to try. He can also get the Seiko CH-8B for significantly less than Hoffman in Chicago or Campbell-Bosworth. Bill

Who sells these videos?

I'm not sure of the price, but you might want to mention your location and post a picture. Also, list any accessories included, etc.

Thanks, Skip. I'm already having trouble figuring out how I'm going to get a 4000 (assuming the price is good ...) up to the third floor - never mind a 25!!! On the price, by the way, local industrial dealers all have their own 441 and Adler clones for sale for considerably less money. Hard to know the right way to go sometimes, but Artisan does have an excellent rep, plus the response to-date has been terrific. Moving my wife's Juki DDL-8700 to the same location was a chore. The head was actually easy - it's heavy (about 90 lbs.), but one person can do it, and the arm gives you a good hold. The STAND, on the other hand, was a bear. Bill

I've never made one, but have worn them for the last 30 years or so as a piper playing in a variety of bands. I own one sporran, all the rest have been band kit. Not one has had a belt loop. All have had a pair of D-rings for the strap to clip onto.

Trust me on this one - the number of pixels doesn't matter nearly as much as the quality of the lenses and the quality of the conversion software inside the camera (the software converts the raw capture information into a JPEG). There are pro cameras that shoot fewer pixels than many consumer cameras that get far better results. Anything *really good quality* in a consumer camera from 6 megapixels up will be just fine. Buy the BEST camera for your budget and don't worry about the pixel count. Don't be fooled by the pixel pushers - it's only one factor among many, including chip type, sensitivity, pixel pattern, pixel size, and several more besides. Macro capability is the ability to focus very close, as in just a few inches. Very valuable in shooting craft work to show details. Good advice from the previous responder!

I think the Sony Powershot A-series are the best bang for the buck cameras on the market. If you want reliable reviews, look to www.dpreview.com. It has very detailed and very technical reviews on most digital cameras on the market. Results are measured, not guessed at. Were I in the market for a new point-and-shoot, it would be a Sony A640 or A710 IS (image stabilized). Bill

I appreciate the perspective. My primary applications are gunleather (including the aforementioned cartridge belts) and motorcycle items (seats, bags, etc.). To your point, as a non-professional user, I'm extremely unlikely to wear out any industrial machine. I've found it best with industrial machines, though, to be extremely particular as to fitting suitability to the task - at least when they're expensive. That is, I can get several machines for my wife, like a single needle lockstitch, lighter-duty walking foot, zig-zag, etc., without breaking the bank. Can't do that with the expensive leatherworking machines, though. Even the accessories are expensive. A needle plate for the average lockstitch machine is maybe ten bucks. A needle plate for a heavy cylinder bed machine runs $100, plus or minus. Ditto needles, feet, etc. Understanding the limits of flexibility (or lack of it) and the associated costs matters with an industrial. Bill

No, he didn't mention the long-arm 3000, but can't imagine I'd go for that! I can definitely see the application with really bulky items like blankets and such that are hard to roll down to manageable size, but think it would a luxury (handy one, though!) for cartridge belts. Do you regard the 4000P as a better machine than the 4000R, or just different? (ignoring the capacity difference for a second) Bill

I've spoken a few times to Artisan (Steve) about their machines, and am close to a purchase, but hesitating over the capacity - and price - of the 3000 vs. the 4000. I think I'd really rather have the extra arm capacity of the 4000, but am having some trouble seeing $1,000 of difference between these two machines. Those of you who have them, especially if you have both ... for what sort of work do you go to the 4000? Is there anything about either machine that makes you like one more than the other? Bill