bcurrier

So, Bruce - bottom line: who do you like in addition to Siegels? I agree with everything you said, BTW. I worked as a purchasing expediter in college for a while and saw all that and more. My favorite were the suppliers that always undershipped exactly 10% of the order, which is allowable under most industrial bulk purchasing contracts. On the flip side, the company I worked for (which I won't name), always took the 10 day payment discounts, but put invoices on the 90 or 120 day pay schedules. No wonder we had supplier problems ... Most suppliers are well-intentioned and will address issues as they come up ... but not all. The only thing I'd add is that you often get a better response, and better relationship, when there's give and take on both sides. You might get asked, for example, if you can accomodate a delay so the supplier can fill an immediate need for another customer. Sometimes you get comped, sometimes not, but it usually works to everyone's long-term benefit. Bill

Which one do you use, and how thick and thin will it cut? Bill

Great post, Art. Shanghai Huigong #3 owns the Highlead name. You can see this machine here - note that it does use the 794 needle system (DYx3). http://www.friedlandersewing.com/highlead/...es/ga2688-1.php I would love to know which factory(ies) Artisan sources the 4000R and 3000 from. Bill

Twern't me, but the major factors in needle deflection would be the material and needle system. The Juki that the F. 2000 and A. 4000 is based on uses a smaller needle system. The 794 is 25% thicker and both companies rework the needle bars. Glad to hear your guide works out. Bill

The answers are suggesting limits to the 794 needle system, as the primary problem mentioned with the guide is deflection. Anyone aware of any heavier needle machine out there that would deflect less? Even the 1000H needle used in extremely heavy-duty machines uses a needle with the same shank diameter. Or maybe the question is whether the deflection matters? Those of you who removed the guide still have the deflection, even if you're no longer breaking needles (or worse). I can only presume you just a little more careful on turns to make sure the hook is picking up the bobbin thread. Bill

To be honest, those few comments ended any interest of mine in Ferdco's 2000. It isn't that they aren't great machines with a good reputation and support (they are). Without the needle guide, it really boils down to a clone vs. clone quality discussion, and Artisan has a similar reputation and is better priced. I'm looking forward to my 4000 (and validation of my opinion!). It shipped yesterday. Bill

Now that's interesting. You removed the needle guide? Why - Ferdco actually promotes the lower needle guide as one of the primary advantages of their machine. Bill

I guess if there's a difference, it's with edge stitching. You do see leather goods from time-to-time - usually older and dry - with bits of leather missing between the stitch and edge. Grooving makes it a bit easier to tear a piece off. Bill

I like the creased stitch better. Cutting a groove on the grain side weakens it. Conversely, creasing it (compressing it) strengthens it. That said, the difference doesn't amount to a hill of beans on most applications.

Thanks for sharing the details. Your workmanship and attention to detail is impressive. I also like the Sam Browne stud - much nicer than a snap. One question: You mentioned that you assemble and cement the skived top piece(s) along with the inlay, stitch, and then cut out the inlay window. How do you avoid cutting into the inlay? (I sort of suspect the answer is something like "be really, really careful", but thought I'd ask!). Bill

If it recesses the stitches, what's fake about it? Bill

Yeah, I understand the basic syndrome, which is that the dye has to be soluble in water in order for water to act as the carrier into the leather. As a result, re-wetting just re-dissolves the dye and it runs all over. What I meant by a "fixative" is a curing agent that changes the dye into a non water-soluble form. There's a number of problems in delivering something like that, not the least of which is that it exchanges the solvent dye problem with a curing agent problem. Hmmm - maybe the answer is to figure out how to make your own alcohol-based dyes???... Bill

Just as an FYI, Artisan may ship the machine with another foot in place of the blanket foot, if you would prefer that. Worth asking. Bill

Go take a look at a 3000, if you can find someone with one locally. I think you're going to be surprised at its size ...

I think the issues are more environmental than health concerns (not to minimize the latter, of course). You'd think there has to a fixative that would work with water-based stuff, though. Bill

I don't know cheaper, but Artisan is reasonably close to those prices retail. In 10 packs it works out to $1.07/needle.

Were I looking for something like you describe, I'd probably buy the following (looks like the same machine sold by Weaver also). http://randallmachine.com/catalog/product_...products_id=106 Expensive, though - $1,350 from Randall. I don't know how much Weaver gets.

Same stitch. The Adler design does require a special gauge tool to time it. You can time a 441 type visually.

There were actually two book presses - one assembled (the one you bought?) - and one disassembled that had been stripped and repainted. I think the latter one was bundled in with the manual clicker, though. The press parts were sitting on the clicker's base. Most of the "good stuff" - machines, particularly - went for about their worth. The Atom Clicker, for example, went for $1,800. It was in pretty good shape, but was certainly well-used - it was literally 80% buried in scrap. The scrap pile actually towered above the clicker for about 3-4 feet on one side! The Ferdinand stitcher went for about $1,200 - pretty good price, but I ran it and thought it needed some work. The skiver sold for about $500, if I recall right. That seemed a little steep, given condition. The 3 Stimpson setters went for about $400 - again, not bad, except only one was operable (set up for eyelets).

Any difference among these (beeswax, paraffin, saddle soap) in terms of stitch retention if a stitch breaks? I'd think stickier is better. Probably doesn't matter after some aging anyway ...

I wound up going to this auction. This was a major motorcycle leather goods manufacturer, apparently with some contracts with Harley Davidson. There were thousands of tool and fork bags, saddlebags, conchos, buckles, huge leather lots, small parts, and machinery. The lot sizes were way too large for me, though my wife and I picked up some HD collectible stuff the business had. I went primarily to look at hand tools and stamps, a Ferdinand/Adler 205-64, clickers, skiving machine, some foot operated setters, and a few odd other items. All went for more than I wanted to pay, or was not in a condition that I wanted to buy. There were several Singer patch machines, for example, that weren't operable, a Seiko walking foot that was partially disassembled, a book press with a large gouge in its bed, etc. etc. etc. I found the hand tools lots too much of a mixed bag in too poor condition to be work the money bid. Typical industrial auction - you never know what you're going to find or in what condition. There were a few real bargains, including a Landis polishing machine about 12" long that went for $75. Not something that I would haul home, though!

How do you attach the top pocket across the width of the wallet? The equivalent stitch lines for the bottom pocket are hidden in the bottom edge.

Terrific, world-class, imaginative work! I've seen a lot of masks in craft galleries, faires, and the like, but don't recall any with the dimensionality and structure yours have. More typical are simple shapes with simple molding. Yours have features, tapered tendrils (love to know how you do that), expression, hills and valleys, color, etc. And the variation is astounding!

Nice workmanship. Crisp lines and stitching. I don't care for the color, but that's individual preference. I'd be interested in knowing how the water-based finishing materials work out in actual use.

Nope. Looking at the stuff, I can't even say what a lot of it is.