xlr8tn

Usually what I've found is the 5mm is the shank length and not the rivet head.

Why is it so hard to find a nice rivet? Everything looks so cheap and never in the size I need. Have any of you found a supplier for a rivet that I can use on a watch strap. Here is a good picture of the type of rivet i'm looking for. It has a head of 5mm in diameter and is made from 316L stainless steel.

all they have is water based glue

I've been hunting for this glue for some time. It looks so easy to spread and not messy at all. All the eco glues I have are too runny. Most of the videos that I've seen this glue are S. Korean, and they respond with 'KENDA FARBEN', but I have no idea what kind/version. Check out this video @7:30.

it's new and I've barely used the thing. Finally got it not eating leather and can skive my parts down to 0.5mm. I read that it's really hard to skive veg tan leather. I'm thinking i had a bunch of leather bunched up in the inside of the knife. The part is dragging a little on the guard but I can grind some of that away or add a little spacer under the guard where it screws in so it won't go down so far and touch the blade.

Hey all, I recently got a skiving machine and noticed that my bell knife is getting real hot even with the lid off. I took the lid off as I noticed it rubbing on the backside. Even with the lid removed, it is getting hot. Is this normal for those of you that have used one like this machine. Thanks, Brent

My wife surprised me today for my birthday and gave me a consew dcs-s4 skiving machine. It came with the head only and she didn't know it needed a table and motor to run. Can anyone point me to a place that sells just the table and motor and recommendations on motor type. Can't wait to use this machine. Thanks, Brent

Where is the best place to purchase a bell knife skiver on the East Coast? Thanks, Brent

Why is it so hard to find quality rivets that you see on current products on the market today? Can someone point me to where to find rivets that look like this? Not looking for cheap tandy rapid rivets. I believe these are tubular rivets that are peened on the backside. Thanks, Brent

What kind of splitter is this called? I feel like in order to make any small leather goods like wallets, this is almost essential. Smallest leather weight I have found is 3 oz which is approx 1.5mm. But in order to get consistent thickness and folded edges, manually won't work too well. Especially trying to pull thin leather thru splitter by hand. Anyone have specific splitter brands that perform list this one? Thanks, Brent

If I remove the plate from my plastic last, what would I fill the gap with? Brent

Thanks everyone.

I am looking to purchase a last from jonesandvining and they have been most helpful. I am looking to make a pair of oxfords, and they need to know if I need metal on the bottom of the last. For those of you who have already been down this path, do I need this or not? I think the metal is for shoes that need the nails bent by that plate and left in the shoe. I'm thinking I don't need this. Thanks for the the recommendation about jonesandvining as well as the making sure that if I have an 8D that the last may not actually be this. Thanks, Brent

awesome...thanks for the info.

I am in the process of making a bridle for a friend and unsure what this piece of hardware is called. Anyone use this before and where can I find one. I believe it hooks to the bit and there is one on each side.

I got the thread from rockymountainleathersupply from ebay. Also picked up 25 John James Saddlers Harness Needles (Sz #4/2/0/00/000) . Pricy, but it makes everything much easier. -Brent

I am looking for a small piece of herman oak bridle to make a wallet and possibly a camera strap. I have been primarily working with horween chromexcel but not looking to purchase an entire hide. Anyone have a square to spare in havana or chestnut? If you are willing to sell me a piece, let me know how much. I'm out in northern Virginia. -Brent

Hello Neillo, I did a bunch of research on this project and had some down time to get it done. Fortunately where I live, there is a place where we can pay to use really nice industrial tools like planer and band saw. I saw in a video from France where they were making these the old fashioned way and they cut the jaws like this. The overall length is about 52" long and the jaw width is 2 3/4". The spread on the jaws (fully open) is 11". I drew a bunch of jaw bends on poster board and experimented with that and got the curve right on my second try. This is made out of a huge chunck of Ash wood that I paid about $40. Hope this helps. Thanks for the compliments. I use it everytime I stitch and the whole process is easier now. -Brent

Leather used was horween chromexcel that I split thinly and lined. Stitching is so much easier using my new pricking iron. Finally got the right combination at 9spi and 632 thread. I did glue the edges and notched so it wasn't so bulky. Thanks, Brent

Just finished up a wallet for my brother. First time mixing leather and lining/material. I have to say that my new blanchard pricking iron and lin cable thread make the job that much nicer. I ended up getting all the parts made up and cut to size, but I think I need a better way to mate the parts. It was fairly easy to punch with the pricking iron on the smooth parts, but getting up towards the top, it was difficult to get a straight punch with differing thicknesses. On the sides and at the bottom were just two layers of leather and several of really thin material. Do you think I should purposely oversize and cut to size once all stitched up? Thanks, Brent

I bought one of these alcohol burners to heat up my creasing tools. Am I supposed to open the second cap to vent? Burner lights up but then it starts seeping out everywhere and that sucker is tight.

Just finished up my own Pince à Coudre. It is made out of a solid piece of Ash and finished with Watco Danish Oil. I plan to test it out on a wallet for my brother.

I recently reused a piece of hardware that came on a French Foreign Legion Radio pouch. Can someone tell me where to find something like it. It is riveted to the journal in two spots. See attached photo:

Here is what I came up with. Thanks for all the help. Last thing I am going to add is a d-ring so I can lock the bag and glue in the sherpa material.

Just finished up my gussets and trimmed edges to provide the proper gap on my case. I removed about an inch of teeth on my zipper on each end and installed metal clamp to prevent zipper from undoing. Can someone explain how to me how to sew each end to my case? I was planning to go about an inch on each side along the spline so I can open my case an lay flat. -Brent