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I finally got a nice english bridle leather hide from Wickett & Craig. They got me exactly what I was looking for and even cut it to the weight I needed. Anyway, let me know what you think! I really liked working with this leather and the color is excellent. Thank you all for helping me get the right stuff and learning a bit more about leatherworking with each try. -brent

I recently found this image and like the thick nature of the thread. Is this hemp? What size do you guess this is? -brent

Thanks Art. I just signed up for that and will check it out next time I see it. -brent

Has anyone worked the Santa Ynez Latigo leather from Seigel of California? I haven't messed around with any latigo before and really not sure if the leather will be too tough. It comes in 5oz and I will most likely have to skive it down a little before bending it around the lug area of the strap. Just curious of what you all might have made with this. I am really looking for something that has a rugged, vintaged look with no shine that will patina over time. Any suggestions? thanks, Brent

I bought one of those angled 4-prong chisels so that my strap stitching would be more angled and have a nice aesthetic look. I read somewhere that you aren't supposed to chisel all the way through the leather, so I made a stitching channel / grove with my groover and tried to hammer the chisel in this groove. Now, when stitching, am I supposed to use a different awl that basically fits the side left by the chisel? Or, am I supposed to make two stabs, one at the top of the slat and one at the bottom? For some reason the last time I tried this, my stitches were straight on one side and staggered on the back. My technique was as follows: 1) punched side was on my right hand side 2) I pushed an awl throught the slat 3) I feed the left needle through and pulled the thread a little 4) I then positioned that thread downwards to pass the right needle on top 5) I then made sure that the thread on the left went on top of my needle when the right one went through 6) I then pulled both thread evenly Help me out, am I doing something wrong? I tried to follow one from my book, but it was the standard saddle stitch with single holes. P.S. I'm trying to do something like the photo.

Excellent ... thanks for the info. I will buy yet another tool and give it a go. -brent

Can someone tell me how to put the 2 little creases as seen in the watch strap keeper? Do I use a groover or something else? Thanks, Brent

Can anyone point me to a place that sells various color 346 Nylon? I searching on google and most places just had the basic colors like white and black.

Any idea what kind of thread this is?

Thus far in my watch strap making hobby, I've used some Irish Waxed Linen Thread that I found here http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17aw.htm. I've used both the 7 cord and 4 cord for smaller projects. Is there a better product that would be suited for straps? What I am finding now after having made a few is that the thread is becoming much darker, flatter, and frayed. Especially in the area that goes into the buckle. Should I be using nylon or so other thread in this situation? -brent

Excellent...placed an order last night. thanks for the quick reply.

Does anyone know where I can find 3/16" cap diameter double cap rivets? I've searched high and low with no luck. I have a pack of 1/4 but they are too big.

Just an update, I purchased a few different acrylic paints this weekend from Michaels. I did a quick test and found that an acrylic with "deep body" tended to work fine and not leave too high a shine. Now, what's the trick in getting this stuff on neater? It didn't come in a fancy squirter tube and was your basic paint tube. I ended up using folded paper towel edge to apply, but the application did not leave the entire edge very smooth. Is there an easier way to get this on? Also, should I try and use my plastic slicker to maybe smooth it out once dry? As far as the overall appearance, I believe this matches closely what I found on factory watch straps. I looks strong enough to last for a little while. What I found with the Edge Kote is that over time it started to crumble. -brent

thank you all for your comments.

I've read all of the topics on edges and still not sure what products to use to get factory-like edges. Thus far, I have used Gum Traganth, Fiebings Edge Kote, plastic edge slicker, elmers glue, spit, denim, to get my edges nice. When I look at any product with a "Made in China" tag, the edges are somewhat plasticky/rubbery and do not deteroriate much over time. I am making watch bands and over time, the edges with Edge Kote start to crumble with repeated bending and placement thru the buckle. Is there another product that I could try that I just don't know about that will give me more of the factory edge I am looking for? I have a can of Plasti-Dip, the stuff you can get at Lowes and basically coat your tools for extra grip. Has anyone attempted to try this on leather? Thanks, Brent

I recently purchased a bottle of Gum Tragacanth along with an edge beveler. Can someone tell me how I am supposed to use this stuff? I also have an edge slicker. Any help would be appreciated. -brent

I'm trying to get an edge exactly like the one shown in the pic of my first post. I've used Edge Kote and it sure didn't turn out like that. Am I supposed to use the gum stuff and then Edge Kote on top of that? Any idea where I can find thread like this? Or is it lace? I just don't know what to search for! -brent

Do you think the lacing is saddlestitch or something else?

Looks like a 4 prong chisel punch was used before stitching. Does this look like the chisel is angled or standard?

Hey I really like the look of this. Can someone tell me what the type of stitching this is? Thanks, Brent

Hello All, I'm glad I found this place...looks like a wealth of knowledge on leather craft. I just finished a custom watch strap prototype and had most of the tools I needed to do a professional job. However, I know I can do better. My strap project used 6-7 oz black bison leather (see pics), which is pretty thick (5mm doubled), but that was the look I was going after with a big watch face. I removed most of the leather where the edges fold over so it wouldn't be so thick (I just purchased a v-gouge to make this easier next time). I used leather cement to secure the two halves together and placed in a vice to dry. So, before I start strap number two, I figured I ask a few questions. 1) I used Fiebings Edge Coat on the edges and was expecting a bit more rubbery look. It turned out great, but is there another product that would give more of a rubbery look (see pic)? I have a can of this stuff call "Plasti Dip" from Lowe's. Anyone try this on leather? 2) I used 4ply waxed thread, but found that this was too thin for the size of this project. I have since purchased 7ply waxed Irish linen thread, and hoping his will be the right size. I found this place called royalwood (royalwoodltd.com) that carries the thread. Where are you all purchasing thread from? I need some alternatives. Can thread be doubled up to produce a thicker look? 3) Stitching - I grooved around the straps on both sides. Is this correct? Or should I have just done it on the side that is visible? I used the saddlestitch to complete the project. I noticed that the overstitch wheel basically didn't really help me out at all. I ended up using a ruler and measuring about 2 holes at a time to get accurate spaces. This is probably because the piece was black and it was really hard to see. I have seen the angled 4 punch and wondered what stitch goes with this? Is it the buckstitch? The finished product looks really nice and the thread lines are somewhat angled (see dark brown pic and tan pic). 4) What is the leather used as a liner on the inside of watches? Is it this stuff: http://www.eleatherworks.com/product.php?p...=509&page=1 Let me know if you have any scrap leather that I can purchase. At this point, an entire hide is way too much. Thanks, Brent