TwinOaks

Looks like the 6strand round braid in o1-U2,o2-u1 pattern. You alternate the over/under braid for the left and right sides.

Beaver Tail Grip Safety...which refers to the larger and more profiled grip safety seen on many of the newer platforms.

Welcome to Leatherworker!

Did you bond/glue the leather, or just stitch it? The creak IS leather on leather, and if you didn't properly bond the leather where it's overlapped, it can creak when it's flexed. You also need to condition the leather, if you haven't, especially if using spirit dyes (which can dry out the leather). Adding straight neetsfoot oil could make it too soft if you over apply, so only do one coat at a time.

I've made stamps from SS bolts from the local hardware store and they work fine. Blades....work with what you know. High carbon stainless would work best, as they better resist the acidic nature of leather. Any of the high carbon steels you listed would be fine for edge holding/ cutting ability, but will be more susceptible to corrosion.

http://worldwarsupply.com/M1-Grand/ about halfway down the page describes it 1.25 inches wide, and the shorter of the two is 25 inches; and both straps were double punched 2/3rds of their length. I don't see the specs for the longer strap, but gimme a few days and I'll measure the one at the store.

That's the M1907 sling. It's nothing more than a leather strap with double punched holes...you can look up the specs on it to make your cuts and holes. However you still need the hardware....which can be found here: http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/slings-sling-swivels/sling-loop-sets/brownells-competitor-plus-sling-hooks-prod25735.aspx

Done! I'll have my business partner contact you today and place the order. Thanks Bob!!

There are some threads that discuss this in detail. Do a search to include "hoster" and "insurance". And yes, it is a valid concern. I simplify the issue by only selling holsters to people I know to be experienced/skilled, and not the type of person to assign blame to someone else for being careless.

My old Champion sewing machine has gained the attention of a likely buyer and I need to get some supplies for it. Can anyone suggest a supplier for needle and awl sets for the machine....other than Campbell? I'm looking for a set for 277 thread, and in an email, Campbell said the awl was 2.5 inches long. The awl I pulled out of it is nowhere near that size, and I'm having a hard time believing that it's going to take close to $100 for a pack of needles and awls, plus a manual. A previous quote from long ago had it at half that price, but I've lost the email. Thanks, Mike Almost forgot....this is a Champion Shoe machine, with the narrow throat. I'd also heard or read that the Campbell needles could be used in the Champions? Can anyone verify this?

That is entirely possible for a LOT of our members, but you left out some information we/they would need. Where are you located..or at least where will these be shipped, how fast do you need them, how thick do you want them, and what size/style buckle would you expect? The answers to those would be most helpful to determine the cost of the items.

That's just fantastic for a second holster! One thing I see that you didn't mention is the sharp points on top of the wings. Rounded works a little better for a few reasons. First, rounded doesn't snag clothing as easily. Second, the sharp point isn't as supported by the stitch, and can become tattered/dog eared over time. You're attention to the stitch line around the trigger guard is very good, and it should be a very serviceable holster. You didn't specifically mention it, so I'll ask....did you remember to buff the dyed leather to prevent rub-off, and to seal the leather with a top coat? With the camera flash reflection, it looks like you did, but I just wanted to ask.

When looking for your cutting board, see if there's any kitchen supply companies near you. They should have slightly better prices for cutting boards....at least the one down here does. I picked up 2 18x24" boards for around $15 each.

color and moisture absorption are probably the easiest way to tell. You'll want to cut off a little piece and make sure that it's the same color all the way through to be sure it isn't a half tan. If it passes that test, then apply water/casing solution to the piece and see if it cases. If so, you're probably dealing with veg-tan.

Thank you, Ray, there's some things there that are quite eye opening.

The only advice I can give on the matter (since I'm sewing with a manual machine) is to make sure that when you turn the leather that you aren't lifting, pushing, or pulling...at all. Just rotating.

I've found that I'm better with an 'click' knife for detail work, but for long cuts, or cuts on thick leather the round knife wins out. Sharpening properly IS the key, as is stropping. I have a hard time using the round knife for long cuts while seated. I also use it for long bevels/skives. And while it's not as much as Bob, I keep finding myself reaching for it ...first.

well, so much for my memory! I still think that checking with your local office would be the best course, as they're the ones you'd be dealing with if there were any 'issues'.....and I've personally seen two agents have differing interpretations...which had to be cleared up by a supervisor.

I looked it up on the atf website once, and yes, if you have your customer's weapon(s) for 'x' amount of time...as a commercial entity...you need an FFL....similar to a gunsmith's FFL. I don't remember the particulars, but I think the gunsmith's ffl allows you to return the weapon to the original person that dropped it off. ***NOTE: This is my recollection, not the ATF ruling. Check their website/ask an agent to be sure.***

hmmmm.....Wiz, what's the feasibility of a polycarbonate window in the bobbin shuttle? Or is that just a solution in search of a problem? I suppose that if you have the tools in that ridiculously clean shop, you could cut an inspection window in the shuttle. You'd need to smooth both sides of the cut, of course, but it's an idea.

If it's not a stitching horse, then I would guess that it's designed for wrapping thread/rope in a uniform coil . The 'arms' are held apart and the 'whatever-it-is' is wrapped around the arms. Then, the tension is removed from the arms, allowing them to collapse for easy removal of the coil. Basically, an old school version of the thing used to wind wire off of a spool at Lowes/HomeDepot.