TwinOaks

when you stitch, does the leather move back at all as the needle is lifting? If so, it may be a presser foot tension problem. That would allow the machine to pull the right amount of thread for a certain length, but then the next stroke is shorter than it should be....that means there's 'spare' thread on the top. When the machine tensions the lockstitch on the upstroke, that spare thread is pulled tight instead of the bottom thread being pulled into the leather.

You'll need to use a method called 'buckstitching'.

Nothing to add to the topic, but welcome to the site. I'm over in Mobile...about an hour from you. I don't know about the P'cola area, but we do have a small leather supply store over here. They sell mostly Tandy leather, but if you're in a pinch, the local store could be a great resource. Nothing to add to the topic, but welcome to the site. I'm over in Mobile...about an hour from you. I don't know about the P'cola area, but we do have a small leather supply store over here. They sell mostly Tandy leather, but if you're in a pinch, the local store could be a great resource.

I don't have anything handy....but, yes, I used them as a backgrounder and the same way as a "foliage" stamp. One of the things I love most about this trade is that there are few 'rules' cast in stone. If I have something I can hit and will leave a repeatable pattern......I've probably smacked it on leather. Not all of them worked out, mind you, but I've tried. ***NOTE: No matter how cool you think the pattern/image/texture might be, do not use it if (A) it's expensive to replace, ( is easily broken by impact from a mallet/maul, or © belongs to your significant other. Expecially in the case of a combination of A and C....it's far cheaper (in many ways) to have a custom stamp made.***

'Roon is good stuff, but since it's a chemical reaction, you need to pay attention to what it does to the pH of the leather. Tis is discussed in at least two of the vinegaroon theeads.

Dip dyeing is the best way to get an even "full saturation" coloring. The color may vary a little bit from hide to hide, depending on absorption.

Torx bits are also quite handy. I've done several pieces using my domed rivet setter, but i like the honeycomb effect the maker did in that link.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! As you read through the forums, check out the pinned topics - they're very helpful in the first stages of your new addiction.

Such is the nature of the media, in general, these days. Self proclaimed experts offering opinions just about anything. And, no, this thread will NOT get a political slant to it.

Quick and good deal. Arrived today. Pleasure doing business with you.

I think I can speak for most of in saying that we're not trying to dash your hopes; we're trying to save you the time and money that we've already spent. I think it was Art (one of our moderators) that said the following: " Save up and get enough machine to begin with. If you hand stitch everything in the mean time, you'll save faster." Many of our members have followed the advice above and are quite happy with their industrial machines. A lot more members have started with a home machine, and are now quite happy with their industrial machine.

I suggest reading the "foxfire" books...there's some information in there about tanning leather...the OLD way. If you decide to do it, you'll need a big vat, a lot of bark, and a lot of time.

While technically it can make stitches in the leather.....it won't sew it like you're thinking. Not enough machine. If you haven't done so, please read Wizcrafts' post (pinned topic in the sewing machine forum) about what type machine you'll need.

whoa...they're older than spring clips......

Better yet.....http://www.amazon.com/General-482-Swivel-Deburring-Handle/dp/B00004T828 and then just modify the tip. my google-fu is stroooong tonight.

given the age of the tool, it probably uses a spring ring for retention. JL, if you can, take the old blade out (if you have one) and take some detail pics of it...especially the part that goes in the handle. I think it probably has a pointed tip and a groove for the spring ring. If you can also provide scale drawings and/or accurate measurements (Micrometer time!!!) our resident engineer should have enough information to proceed.

bury in cat litter to pull the oil out. Once done, reapply...sparingly.

The downside to adding kydex, or pallet bands, or whatever else.....if it gets a kink in the belt, that kink is there to stay. And, for a lot of the material commonly used, a lot of flexing will make a hinge point and it'll break....you end up with a two piece stiffener. And that is about as useful as a 2 piece crank in a V6.

It's a little different, but very similar to MY Champion Shoe Machine. So close that I think that's what it is, but yours has a manual bobbin winder on it and is in much better condition. Anyway....the narrow throat is the only drawback. If it'll fit under the foot, it can be sewn, and you can probably adjust your sewing to accommodate most things. There may be some specific parts that will cost more, but....for a pack of needles and awls (in your choice of size), a pound of thread (matching the needles/awls) and a manual should run you about $75. You should be able to find the supplies at http://www.campbell-randall.com/ As far as a specific model, I'll defer to some of the experts on here....because some of them were around when these machines were still produced.

Two layers of leather bonded with the grain out, and stitched, is plenty stiff for even all steel rigs.

What you are missing is the other measurement...you're using the measurement from only one side of the gun. The trigger guard is much thinner (actual measurement on this one at the gun store is 3/8ths inch)....so you need half of the 3/8ths + leather for the line at the trigger guard side of the gun...in this case you'll be about 5/16ths" offset at the trigger guard. However, the 'general rule' is only that..you'll likely find that after molding, you'd be able to move the stitch line in to almost the profile of the gun on the left side and be fine. And that's just my opinion of course, as I don't know how you'll be sewing it. I'd suggest making the base holster as you have it drawn and then mold down to the gun and see what the actual offset is for the leather you're using.

I won't comment on the cant of the design because that is totally subjective- your customer wants what he thinks he wants. However, on the holster itself.....regardless of which pattern you use, you have some areas you need to address. First and foremost is the stitch line. It is waaay to far from the gun. Over time, the leather will stretch a bit and the gun will be loose in the holster. On the top and bottom pics, you really need to change where the holster meets the trigger guard. As drawn, both will be in the way of a good grip. They're also likely to be in the way of the mag release. Thumbstrap is optional, but again, it's gonna depend on what the customer wants. If you're going to use one, it's easiest to just incorporate the snap in the "sweat shield".

If you can, get an airbrush. Or set up a place to dip dye. I prefer the airbrush for things that I want to vary the shade. Of course, some types of dyes won't work as well in the AB, so you might stay with a dauber or sponge method. You just need to experiment a bit and see what works best for your work. After application of the dye you should be buffing to remove any loose dye particles. Then you should seal the leather.

It's the result of a combination of the pressure of the presser foot, the firmness of the leather, and the size of the needle. Basically, the leather is being pushed into the little hole where the needle goes into the arm. You can lighten the presser foot a bit to see if it helps....or you could just hammer the threads down if everything on the machine is sewing well.

Dip it in a pan/pot of MOP-N-GLO, and hang to dry, blotting any runs/drips off. Mop-n-glo is an acrylic wax...so is Resolene, which is marketed for leather. Dipping it will give you the best penetration without disturbing any other layers. You can also thin it with water as you see fit. Do some test pieces first, of course.