BOOMSTICKHolsters

Yes, you can request a blue gun without the blue paint.

The idea behind the clicker dies is three fold. First of all, once you get your designs down you don't want to be making changes as that costs you time and money, and opens the door for too much custom deviation. It's not to say that custom work can't make money, but you need to be established and get well paid for you work (as I imagine Dave does). Second, using clicker dies doesn't just cut down on cutting time; it also drastically reduces the time it takes to dress up your edges. Finally, it makes it more expedient to produce consistent reslults (especially if you do several holsters at a time). As far as spending money goes, you don't have to have a clicker press to use the dies; I don't even own a clicker press. I modified a shop press to quick change between rubber press pads and clicker dies. I definitely get where Denster is coming from, but I am also giving the best advice I can, and my second biggest regret to do with this business is not getting dies made sooner (the first is diversifying too much in the beginning). All that having been said, if you don't know how to cut patterns well without the dies or form holsters without a press, you need to get all that worked out long before you decide to go into the business of making holsters. Unfortunately, I see a lot of people who jump right in without really knowing what they are doing both both in regards to leather work, and with pistol craft (tragically both can be learned, but many are too lazy or unwilling to make the necessary effort).

I'm gonna give you the advice that I wish somebody had given me when I got started: Specialize in one niche, and concentrate your services, advertisements, and products in that area. For example: Offer leather holsters for concealable Glocks only. Don't make a wide range of holster styles; just one or two that work very well and know them inside and out, like one pancake and one IWB, and offer them with retention straps since almost nobody else does(this is just an example, not what I think you should do). Then spend your limited investment money on dummy guns for the Glock 26, 19, and 30 (which also covers the 23, 27, 32, 33, 29, 30 & 30SF models). Invest in clicker dyes for the limited holsters you make for those models (depending on the design one shape would work for most if not all of the models). Then advertise in the appropriate place that has your niche market, like the-off-duty-cops-who-love-glocks-forum.com because they have expressed a need for IWB Glock holsters that have retention straps, and no other vendor has fulfilled their needs yet (that's a fictional forum just for an example). You will have less overhead, you will get very good at making that holster style, and you will build customer loyalty with individuals that already have blind brand loyalty, along with a concentrated market to advertise with. Diversify too much, and you will sink yourself in this business if you aren't very careful. Take too many custom orders on too many different kinds of pistols and you will go broke trying to fulfill promises and prior obligations, and pay for a large inventory of dummy guns with a big investment and little monetary return (ask me how I know). There are hundreds of holster makers, and hundreds of pistols. Don't be afraid to say no if you can't make any money on a custom request, 'cause there will be another holster maker that won't know any better than to do it and lose money on it. Also, you need to really enjoy what you are doing because you won't really make any money for at least a couple of years, and even after that you won't get rich. Second, I think you need to have an interest in the niche you cater to; if you sell CCW holsters you should carry every day and understand what is needed to make a holster work well for the CURRENT trends in carry and defensive shooting training. If you are planning on making IDPA holsters, then you should compete (even if you aren't very competitive) so you understand what the holster should be able to do and you can relate with the needs of your customers. If you don't know what these trends and necessities are, you should be willing toinvest in some classes and learn, or you will only sell your productsto customers that don't really know what they need or what is required. This is the best advice that I can give you on how to be successful in the holster business. I hope it helps you make some decisions.

I think I'd try running the front loop a little further from the top strap, and a try a little less curvature in the rear wing of the holster. Those adjustments ought to keep the flared grips on Rugers and older Smiths from printing as much. Beyond that it's a nice evolution from the initial design concept.

The two main issues I see with your current design: 1) There is not enough room to get a full grip on the pistol before the draw begins. This is a MUST for concealed carry holsters. You just need to cut a little more leather next time so the trigger is fully covered but the bottom of the trigger guard is bare for at lest the width of a finger. 2) The stitching on the tunnel loop doesn't line up with the rear belt loop so you probably won't be able to thread a belt through it. You need to line the loops, stitching and slots up so a stiff belt is able to pass through without binding. Other than that you might also consider taping a dowel rod on top of the slide before you form the next holster so the front sight doesn't drag, which can impede the draw and also obstruct the front sight with leather shavings. Keep at it and you'll get things figured out.

Good job.

To cater to those with incompetent gun handling skills....

Interesting idea to add a welt to the wing of the holster. 'Never thought of that. Do you have any pictures of the pistol being worn to show the relationship of the grip to your body? I just wanted to point out (since you are interested in holster history) that Bruce Nelson's "Professional" #1 holster was the first holster of this type, and it actually bares a similarity to the design you posted here in regards to the lack of a mouth reinforcement and the style of tunnel loop. I've read conflicting stories on how much Askins was or was not involved with the design of the holster he made famous. Either way, Askins will probably get the credit for the design since his name was synonymous with it after Bianchi's release of the "Askins Avenger" holster.

My last couple have been sub par as well. They are difficult to cut with a head knife, and they are causing my boning folders to drag. Is this the same problem you're having? It's driving me nuts, 'cause when they get it right, there is nothing out there better, but they aren't always consistent.

Your best work yet, I think. It sure helps to use good material, huh?

Good advice there.

Pretty slick, I think. That's a fairly complicated revolver to make a holster for, and you did a commendable job.

Go to Zack White and order a premium 7/8 double shoulder and you'll be set for both. Don't use 4/5 for mag holders if you want them to last....

Horsehide is stiffer and tighter grained than cow hide. There are several folks out there that believe those qualities make it a better material for making holsters. In my estimation a large percentage of those beliefs are a direct result of clever marketing from a few makers. In my experience, horsehide holsters are quicker to dry or crack, and most manufacturing processes don't get the kind of contact against the pistol that you will get with good cowhide, resulting in a poorer fit. The tighter grained horsehide will also not absorb acrylic as readily as cowhide will. That is a big detriment [in my opinion] as well. I have used both materials and I have carried in holsters made from both materials. I used to prefer horsehide when I got started. Now that I have more experience, I prefer quality cow hide hands down. Having said all that, if you would still like to give it a try for yourself, you can prep the surface with alcohol to help it absorb. You can also use a little dawn dish soap in your water to break the surface tension (which helps it absorb better as well).

Some skins require skiving, but most of the ones I use don't. I suppose it depends on the weight of the hide and where you get it. It is a MAJOR pain in the butt to skive exotics if you don't have access to a mechanical skiver. I usually just sand the pieces to get the results I want. In many cases, I don't find it necessary to back the accents with cowhide, but that will depend on your construction and finishing process so you may decide it is necessary after some experimentation. I have reinforced the accents with sheet metal in the past for holsters that needed to have a strong opening yet remain very thin, so you might consider that as an alternative, but realize that you will have a LOT more time in the holster by time you are finished with it.

Are you doing any work with exotics yet? That first holster is just crying for some black shark or elephant as an accent (it will look good, and it will wear better, too). Let me know if you want to give it a try and I'll send you a piece to play with.

A thin gauge sheet steel run about 1/4" shy of the stitch line near the top of the holster will do it. You just need to make sure the edges are dulled so they won't cut through the leather and that they are far enough from the stitch line that you don't run a needle into the sheet metal. The steel should be thin enough that the holster can be bent and shaped if it needs to be to fit the user's body a little better. Or try your own method to get similar results and let us know how it works out.

Have you ever thought of trying a metal stiffener between the layers between the pistol and the rear loop? The hold won't change as much once the holster breaks in. Just an idea for you to play with.

Awesome job there, Rock76. Good design and excellent loop placement to make the butt of the grip stay in tight.

I think it is a good idea to make a test run holster or a mock up on new designs. It helps a lot if you have been there before when you're constructing a challenging project. Personally, I would look into lining the holster with some lighter weight leather so you don't have to worry about the flesh side. The Bianchi DVDs you ordered will have more info on what weights to use, but keep in mind he doesn't bone for retention so you might go ahead and keep it lighter weight than he does. Boning the holster for retention aside, I would still consider adding a hammer thong on the holster if you are planning on riding with it, just in case you need to use it at some point. Otherwise you can keep it tucked away. Stitching just takes the right information and a lot of practice (Al Stohlman's book has good info). It is also important to have the right tools for the job and stay consistent so the stitches don't stray off line or deviate in their placement.

What tools do you currently have? I would recommend the following list if you don't already have these items on top of your normal sewing kit: Bees Wax Duck Cloth/Canvas Small and Large Edger Stitch Groover Stitch Marking Wheel If you have a drill press or a drill, this set of Sanding drums will come in really handy for evening up the edges with the welt: http://grizzly.com/products/16-pc-Long-Sanding-Drum-Set/G2501 Then practice stitching and edging as much as you can until you're happy with the results. Have fun and be sure to post pictures of your holsters!

I would suggest you get a copy of John Bianchi's "Western Holster Making" DVDs. It will help you tremendously if you're just getting started with western rigs.

Nice work!

Here's a spray booth idea for you that a buddy of mine gave me: Find an old window fan (the box fan that fits in a window). Buy a furnace/air conditioner filter the size of the fan. Build a table with a frame that the fan fits in laying on its side, with plywood walls on top of it on three sides that basically make a box with an open side (on top of the fan). Make a slot for the filter to slide over the fan, and put expanded metal or wire mesh or whatever you want above the filter that allows air to flow but doesn't let whatever you are spraying make contact with the filter itself. The fan is pointed down so it makes a down draft when it's turned on, meaning whenever you spray in the booth the over spray is sucked down into the filter, which gets periodically replaced. VOILA! You have a spray booth. Add pegs or wires to the wall that allow you to hang your work to spray it if you want, and whatever other custom modifications you need to suit your purposes.

Duncan's was out of the 36 models when they posted their new list on the 28th. If you're desperate, the Glock 36 is listed as a new ASP red gun here: http://www.red-diamond-unif.com/asp_red_gun.htm At one time, these folks stocked some of the dummies instead of drop shipping so you might give them a call about the blue gun as well.