BOOMSTICKHolsters

Awesome stitch pattern on the belt slide holster! I don't think the hole in the IWB hurts the appearance of the holster. If it is only serving as a drainage hole, you might want to move it to the lowest point on the holster. Have you tried a slot punch yet? I really like the way they form up with the longer cutout.

Anybody have any sources to get black T-nuts (or stainless, but they must be 8x32 thread)? I ran a search and the member who was offering them will no longer be handling them.

I didn't know that. What brand/weight of thread are you running in your needle and awl machines? I used to want a needle and awl machine after seeing some of the work they produce, but I really like being able to sew through the same stitching holes more than once. I decided that the walking foot single needle machines suit my needs much better, and as long as they are tensioned correctly they produce excellent results as well. I'm also a big fan of the bonded nylon threads performance, and it isn't as toxic as the polyester if you are melting your thread ends (I know that a lot of folks just snip their threads close anyhow when running the needle and awl machines, so that might not be an issue).

I personally prefer Linhanyl 277 weight bonded nylon top and bottom.

Quality makes such a difference, doesn't it? Having good quality materials, good tools and good hardware is so worth while. 'Funny thing is you can tell some people that until your blue in the face and they will never get it. For everyone that is reading these forums: PAY ATTENTION TO THIS POST AND LEARN THE LESSON MONICA IS TRYING TO CONVEY TO YOU!!! SPENDING THE EXTRA MONEY ON QUALITY IS WORTH IT!!!

It looks like you're off to a decent start. Good job on the mag release button clearance. That gets overlooked by too many people IMO. You might consider shifting the sweat shield forward so it covers the sights and doesn't obstruct your grip any when you grab the pistol. Too much excess leather can actually jab the web of your hand or the inside of your thumb and foul your draw.

That's a nice improvement, and a unique finish. Keep the pictures coming and be sure to show us your mag holder when it's finished.

A lot of the companies will give you broken models for dummies if you contact them and tell them what you are using them for. You may have to give them a tax number to show that you're legit, but that's not a big deal. You can also use wooden dowels or pipes the right circumference, but a lot of the more popular flashlights being used now days aren't just straight tubes, or they have non-removable belt clips that have to be shaped into the holder, so dowels or pipes won't work really well.

I agree with you for the most part that the biggest "tell" is attitude and body language, but I think the strap as it is might be a little conspicuous. I wonder if it wouldn't draw someone's eyes to the pocket that normally wouldn't take a second glance. What about camouflaging the strap as a key fob or something similar?

Weapon mounted, or hand held?

Have you ever measured any of them against the real thing with a micrometer?

I really don't know. Maybe their molds are not aligned properly, or they have multiple molds, some of which are out of spec. It could be any of the reasons that you mentioned. I can tell you that their rubber is softer than Rings, so that might have something to do with it. What ever causes it, if they could get it sorted out they would sell a lot more dummy guns to holster makers.

Shorts, I have had to go through three red guns in the same model before I got one that was in spec. The problem is, they run large. If they ran on the small side, I wouldn't care. You may get one that is great, and you may get one that is too big, and there is no rhyme or reason as to why. Talk to the sales person before you buy it and ask if they can mic' it for you, or let you exchange it if it is too large.

What function will the holster serve - Duty Holster, Concealed or plain clothes carry, or active response/drop leg holster, etc.? Be aware also that you will have to make a dummy mold that simulates the width of the light all the way to the mouth of the holster, and that since the 1911 is so much thinner than the light, the trigger will be exposed to a degree. You also need to consider that the leather needs to be very stiff in order to keep its shape well enough to facilitate a smooth draw (a collapsed holster means a fowled draw, and you know that when you need your pistol, you REALLY need it). I would actually consider using Kydex in this case, but of course the decision is yours.

This is a really funny coincidence for me. was just talking to a friend about the Wildey pistols, and than you post this rig. Awesome work, Dave!

I dye my leather after the patterns are cut, but before the pieces are assembled.

If you haven't bought them yet, I have an XD9 bluegun with a sight rail installed that I am willing to part with for $35 shipped.

Yup, but I find blatant and open thievery to be more convenient than the subtle sneaky kind!

Hey Jared. I'm kind of surprised that nobody left a list. I guess we'll be on our own getting dummy guns made.

I used to use a bag punch to punch my slots, but it was too narrow for gun belts as it was. I had to punch it twice and clean up the ends with a 3/8" hole punch before following it all with a 1/4" sanding drum to even things up. I finally ordered a slot punch from Texas Custom Dies in the dimensions I wanted, and I wish I would have done that a long time ago. It was worth twice the cost to save all that time!

rickybobby, I have a buddy with a machine shop. I trade shop time for holsters and use his help and equipment to clean up the molds. To put the sight rail in I use a 1/4" mill and cut a slot in the dummy gun. The rail is made from 1/4" bar stock of 6061 aluminum. I use Gorilla glue to install the rail on the blue guns, and the aluminum dummy guns have the rail welded in place with a TIG welder (compliments of my buddy).

kwranch, you can get dummy guns for older revolvers if you are into CAS. That isn't what I deal with, but I certainly don't mind you leaving a list of what you are looking for in this thread. That having been said, it isn't horribly difficult to get your hands on several cowboy action revolvers. Duncan's Currently has the following in stock as of the 24th: Colt 1903 1847 Walker Dragoon Colt Single Action Army Ruger New Model Vaquero 5.5" Ruger New Model Vaquero 7.5" Ruger Old Model Vaquero 5.5" Ruger Vaquero Montado 3 5/8" They add more from time to time, but this is what they have available right now. A couple of things to consider - You can use a mallet head and hammer handle to form most CAS holsters. John Bianchi does this in his video. You can also get non firing prop guns for most of the cowboy revolvers with ease. As mentioned you can also use a dowel rod as a front sight clearance rail, although I didn't find that necessary on the cowboy rig that I built (only one I ever made, so my experience here is extremely limited). On my modern dummies I install an aluminum rail, but the holsters are all tightly pressed and bones so it is necessary.

GP100 is SOLD.

I know of a few people that have looked into it, some quite extensively. I already tracked down a material to make my own molds and cast dummies from a very strong polymer. I was planning to sell extras to recoup costs, but that is where you run into problems. Any dummy gun made from non-metallic materials is an infringement on the patent ASP holds (I am not a lawyer, this is not legal advice). I know that John Rings pays a royalty to asp to build blue guns. A little operation like mine just isn't able to do that. Thus, I am dealing with the dummy gun companies that are available, or perhaps casting my own at a higher expense.

If you're boning the holster by hand, then yes, it will work for you. If you use a press, then no, it won't. If I were trying to get a 6" bbl holster from this gun, I would press and bone the holster by hand, but leave the muzzle portion alone. When the top was sufficiently shaped, I would remove the dummy from the holster and insert the barrel in the holster's muzzle end (assuming it is an open bottomed holster). Then I would shape the rest of the bbl. I've done this in the past with other models when I still did all my boning by hand.