ZigZag

Thanks cowboy Bob, they have these at college sewing so will try this and see how I get on. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. Thanks Glenn, I’m going to try cowboy bob’s recommendation and see how that works out. But I appreciate your ideas.

Hi all, I want to add a raw edge, single fold, bias binder attachment to my Juki1508. There appears to only be a single threaded hole in the sliding bobbin cover plate and 2 threaded holes closer to the front edge of the bed. Is there a particular style or make of binder I should be looking out for. I’m based in the UK Thanks Nick

Hi kgg, I’m working with acrylic marine canvas. It is pretty heavy weight and some is polyurethane coated. I usually sew 2 - 3 layers, but that can go to 5 layers or with leather chafe patches. I also work with clear flexible window materials. Many of the seams are glued with double sided tape as well. I’ll try the larger needle and see how I get on. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks for this, much appreciated. I’ll give it a try.

Hi, I’m trying to set up my Adler 166, a zig zag machine to take a V92 thread. The needle type for this machine is 328 / 214 / DDx. The smallest needle size for this type that I can find in the UK is size 21 or 130 to use a V138 thread. Does anyone know if there is an interchangeable needle type that has a size 19 or 120 needle in the range. Thanks Nick

Thanks for the replies, looks like sticking with the round points. But I think I might have a tweak with the bobbin tension to see if I can tidy the stitches up. I rerouted the spool to first machine twist post, which I think has helped untwist the thread, so looking neater.

I’m familiar with the diamond shape tip with leather and how it sets the stitch. I also sew a lot of heavy canvas and currently use a simple round point 135/17 size 19 needle with v92 thread using a Juki 1508. I’ve seen all sorts of shaped needle tips on offer from Schmetz. Are there any alternatives worth trying? The objective is to improve the quality of the stitch. I’ve tried using diamond needles but they tend to slice the canvas fibres leaving a slightly fluffy underside. thanks

Thanks Michiel, much appreciated. I’m aware of the left / right timing issues, but it keeps missing a left hand stitch every once in while and when timing, the hook does look a little low in the scarfe. I’ll try dropping it a mill and see how it goes. thanks Nick

Hi all, I’m trying to retime my zig zag Adler 98, but despite loads of research I can’t find a service manual. The 98 is based (I think on the 67). Does anyone have any reference that might help. thanks Nick

Thanks Uwe, good to know you have had good experiences with them. I feel more confident about placing an order. Much appreciated.

I see Kong Hing are requesting bank transfer only as a means of payment. Was the transaction all ok for you Uwe?

Thanks for sharing the details of this Uwe. Looks very interesting. Do let’s us know how you get on with it and what the capabilities are. Hope it works out well

The Juki 1508 is a great machine. Strangely enough I bought mine to replace a Seiko STW8, which is a copy of the 111. The other huge bonus for me was having a large bobin, I was forever changing the smaller one in the Seiko. I really don’t have any complaints about the 1508, it even uses the same feet.

I’ve used copper for years, this was the first time I’ve used brass and I was wondering what to expect, and as you say a tad harder to cut and you need to be a smidge harder with the hammer, but really not a whole lot different. I’ve mixed brass rivets with copper burrs and it looks really good.

Thanks, it’s a project I really enjoyed making it. The knife handle is micarta. The knife was made by Jimmy at Dreadnought Forge. He made this to my requirements with lots of input from him as to how it would be used etc