Shorts

I say classic as in one of my original bread and better holsters. Its the first of this model I've stitched on the machine. Sig 226R CSO in Angelus Jet Black For some reason the Resolene isn't finishing on my blacks as nice as I'd like. I'll have to figure that out be it my spray pattern or leather prep. I'll get it back to expectations though.

I suggest the plastic bag method to my customers and I use it myself. I hear the wax paper method is good as well. I send out tight holsters. Fresh Resolene adds to the strength of the sticky. The plastic tempers the leather to just the right fit.

Glad to see the evaluation (I love "the process" of making a good thing better). Looking forward to the next one!

Thanks Kings X! Email sent.

Excellent - thank you. So long as they don't mar my finish with the edge of the shaft that may work. I ran across tool stamps the other day on craigslist and I'm kickin myself for not getting them at that time.

lol Actually I'm not sad about it. It wasn't a woe-is-me post rather a realistic look at how an item has worn. Everyday we see all the new things that folks make but we don't always see the reality of its use. What exactly are you sorry about that you see on my belt?

I built my double layer belt in October and I've been wearing it every day. I wanted to show how its worn and torn in that time. It was my prototype so as the belt as changed I've taken note as I build each new one. It's 7/8oz Herman Oak, hand stitched, EcoFlo Coal Black New: Today:

Looking for a standard set of 1/4" letters and numbers to use for labeling items. I know I can buy this new pretty easy but if anyone has a set laying around for a hint cheaper or just need room I can probably take it off your hands.

Yeah, I always hold orders 2 days after topcoat before packing for shipping. They need the time. I was hoping for a better way. Where I was in northern Japan was humid. It's the same here in DFW. Tim, I know CC. I'm originally from there. I haven't tried lacquer or oil. I keep oils away from my holsters. I build them pretty tight and stiff for retention so I didn't want oil breaking them down. I guess I'm chicken to try even the smallest amount lol Thanks for checking out my site

Unfortunately the reply to my email today seemed to be the standard cut & paste reply. It mentioned I only needed to pay $750 to get started. While wanting to reply in order to get past the form letter response, I didn't have the strength to do it. Maybe another time. Still need the XDM though

Clips look nice. As you said they might be bulky. Best thing is to try it out and see how they carry. Good work I considered converting my looped iwb to tuckable but after banging my head against the wall it was much more efficient and productive to just build a dedicated tuckable model.

Right now I Resolene my belts after dye for topcoat. I'm curious though, instead of Resolene what can I use to seal the dye WITHOUT tenderizing the stiff property of the double layers? The reason I want to try something different is that my Resolene seems to take a bit to fully cure. I'd like to put a belt out quicker than waiting 3 or 4 days. If you use it too soon, the top coat gets scuffed. How dumb is that? After it fully cures it does great and you can't even tell the leather has any topcoat. But until then, gotta be gentle. Thoughts?

Aside from cleaning up (rough edges and details I assume?), are they on spec?

Thanks Kevin. I'm glad my ideas are rolling the way of trends and not completely off base. I'm going to give it a shot trimming the clips off. I bought a handful of clips from CompTac last year and never got around to using them so I'm experimenting now. I do need to figure out how I'd like to go about the clip supply, several options crossed my mind. A bulk order or $400 doesn't sound appealing though. Good thoughts Jeff. I think I try to shoulder too much of the comfort issue in the holsters in design. I want them to fit everybody perfect and the reality is, it won't be the case. But I'll do my best to get them as comfortable as I can.

Hmm, brainstorming the redundancy, I could chop the clips just beneath the top most hole. At the same time get rid of the bottom three holes on the holster, maybe add one above that top holster hole. Chop that excess leather off the wing bottoms. Hmm

Thanks! I hear that about lower. It was the first thing my husband said. I told him to count the holes and do it himself LOL This model is actually hardware heavy (which I believe on these clips is redundant). I used the Tnuts from DotFasternerDirect with the flat square shaped base and lined the 5 holes underneath each clip. Now this adjustability is where my hesitation comes in because it is a catch 22. If the holster is lowered, it now places more leather lower down on the hip/leg. I am concerned this would become uncomfortable. On the other hand, I don't want to raise the position of where the clips are mounted because of the holster is worn higher, I'm concerned the clip sticking out the bottom past the leather would be uncomfortable. So, I guess you could say the height of the leather overall is the thing I'm trying to work out. I do like the white stitching as well. To do either style takes the different construction process (dye first before stitching or dye last after molding). I just have to be certain that use the right one if there's a request for certain color thread. What I truly enjoy is I can use white thread and it'll take the dye, which saves a little costs there.

I just sent an email and received a reply. Here is the pertinent part: So Duncan's has one already available?

Yup, that's the medium brown. I reduced it 3:1 and it seems to be the shade I'm liking.

I didn't see then in Ring's online catalog or in several of the online stores I have bookmarked. Not sure when or if Ring's plans to put them out. I suppose I could give them a call in the morning and inquire. I suppose I could buy the real thing and write off lol Maybe I need to get my FFL paperwork in sooner than I anticipated.

Thanks! For the muzzle treatment you mean the slot cut there on the bottom? Well, I'd love to take credit for it but it is not my original idea. I've seen several other makers do the same and decided to use it here. I do agree with the position that holster bottoms should be open so that debris and junk does not get planted down there. There are some exceptions but I don't think a daily conceal carry is one. It also allows room for leather. Short guns can be more uncomfortable than long ones because they end in an odd place. Extra leather on the bottom adds a bit of comfort.

Anyone find them?

haha Yeah. My first belt I hand stitched over 2 or 4 days. I vowed to not build another belt until I got my machine. Thanks for the tip on the Sun Tan. I am still in the market for a good tan color that isn't orange. The browns are deep but they are too red tinted to get the tan I want, even reduced.

A good way to keep the glue craziness from getting uncontrollable is to make the back layer strap slightly wider than the top. Example, top 1.5" which is the end width and bottom 1.75". This allows for the belt straps to be uneven yet fully glued to the edge. Once you're glued and stitched, then slice the excess off (these scraps make excellent lace ties for random things around the shop). From there even & round your edges. I still miss a few spots here and there but you stand a better shot at an even burnish.

On the Colt holster (Herman Oak) I first used a dip in a shallow pan but the leather drank all the dye I had in it So as I daubered the M&P (some leftover Tandy leather) I daubered bare spots on the Colt. On the M&P holster I used a dauber. At that point I wasn't being any kind of careful or methodic Naked M&P as it was the prototype I did use the same dye on a belt that came out pretty sweet. It's closer to even than the holsters but it isn't flawless: I think if I used a true dip method, which means a big bucket full of dye that I'd get a better result.

Excellent can't wait to see yours These are 7/8oz (its what I have on hand now). I'm contemplating dropping to 6/7oz for this model. There is enough leather there that it should be pretty stable without being overkill.