Shorts

There seems to be a little bit of a wall we hit as far as patterns go. I know I did. I take a look through sites and see a design then try to draw it...then it comes out wrong. I start to over think it then get frustrated. Anyway, one way I've found to cope, so to speak, it to take the previous holster, then adjust things about it that I did not like. Shape, length of belt loops etc. Basically trying to improve the fit of that particular pattern. Hopefully when it's done, it comes out a better version of the last. After that is right, maybe go to the next pattern. Or if that patter is money, maybe do it for a different pistol. Anyway, just an approach I am trying. YMMV.

It looks pretty good When you made the pattern, how much room did you allot for the fold over side (edge against the slide)?

lol Nah, just the leather strap. You can see on the front one where I drilled through and forgt about the backpiece and drill through that This holster is a decent base pattern. I think I'm going to tweak this and that to get a good solid piece from it. But so far, promising. Thanks TwinOaks. Stitching takes forever for me. I only have the use of my right hand so its truly a tedious process. I good padded sewing glove is a must!

Nice work!

"...but how does it look when you wear it??" <-- What I ask myself looking at holsters online. This one wears comfortable, no stabbing in the rib cage and double score is no banging on my elbow either.

Thanks Well, the screw on this one holds the rear belt strap. I did that so the strap can be changed out when the snap wears out. Next time though I probably will just go with a regular strap like the front. Manf put tension screws on the holster, which I think that's what you are thinking about. Basically as the holster wears in and gets older, you can turn the screw and increase the tension around the gn again so it can stay snug.

Here's the first holster after 2 years away from the skill. Lots of little errors and stupid mistakes I intend to get corrected for the next several holsters I have in line. For an explanation of the bleed off there around the screw, refer to the Black dye thread in Dyes and Finishes. Without thinking, I put the screw on the holster before dying.

Thank you for the explanation Dave. I'm going to hopefully get some inlays into my projects soon.

So did I walk into that one or what?? Ok, here's a pic with some linseed oil (all I had on hand). The black has a grey tint to it as you can see, but the oil darkens it right up.

Steel wool

Here's an example of my solution and product. I put the wool into the vinegar on the 31st, so its been curing for 2 days. I dipped a strip of veg tanned leather in and left it for a minute or two, then pulled it back out, rinsed with cool water and there it is. No transfer of color when I rubbed it on the white papertowel. I'll get a pic of the strip when it is dried for continuity. But as you can see, wet, it is very dark black (looks like I dipped it in black ink). After it dries, I'll take a pic both dry and with oil.

What dye did you use on the mountain belt on your site? I'd like to order the same for some holsters.

Just as the title says, how do you put together the inlay? I've seen some beautiful sheaths on here.

Be careful with the airsoft pistols, measure them for spec. My airsoft Commander specs out slightly larger than the actual. I ordered blue guns from TSDS and Greg Stough. Good man to work with.

The sheath on the right, did you use a separate skin on top of the leather? If so, how do you go about laying in a decorative piece like that?

Thanks Johan, good info. (My use of the word "dye" was not in reference to the black solution) My idea on my above observations was that the acceptable level of acidity in leather alone was not going to be reduced by putting it in a baking soda bath. Is that a relatively safe statement for the intensive purposes here?

Interpret: In experimenting the last day or two, dropping in a swatch of veg tanned hide into a base solution of baking soda and water produces no visible chemical reaction. Dropping a swatch of dyed with vinegar and water solution into a rinse of baking soda/water produces no visible chemical reaction. Dropping a swatch dyed in vinegar into a rinse of baking soda and water produces a very visibly active chemical reaction.

I've been working on a brown dye all night. I'll post pics in the morning after the swatches dry.

In another forum I read that an unlined holster dyed with this solution can remove the blueing from guns. I would imagine neutralization after dying would help, but I do not know to what extent.

Thanks for the welcome gentlemen. Regis, I have not done any tooling to the holsters. I've always preferred a simple, elegant design of a non-tooled holster. But I'm beginning to get curious. All in good time I suppose

This method sound great, I'll probably try it on the current holster. However, I'm a bit concerned with the step of adding oil after you've dyed and nuetralized to get the dark black color. Neatsfoot oil softens holster leather to the point it doesn't hold shape. How do you go about it for holsters?

Hi folks, I joined up yesterday, looks like an informative place to be. I'm getting back into making holsters after a 2yr time off (moved overseas) so no guns to make holsters for. At any rate, I've learned to order blue guns so I'm getting started First project to wet my whistle is a OWB belt snap for my little airsoft Colt Commander. It's a trial run model for my .45 back home. Try to ignore the tragedy that is my stitching on the top support piece. Inferior string is NOT the way to go, nor is my lazy method of predrilling (I KNOW BETTER!). Anyhow, the rest of the leather was punched properly but I'm waiting on my supplies to arrive so I can stithc this puppy up and get it finished. Thanks yall Edit: not pictured is the rear belt strap. That will be screwed to the holster so it can be changed out if/when the snap wears out....the front is on it's own! :D