Shorts

The holster looks great Mike, thanks for putting them up. I need to jump in and do one in vinegaroon already and quit fighting with my black dye. I've got my test pieces sitting in the box, I'm going to go look at them some more while I decide what holster I'll use. Again, nice work.

Thank David. I did as you suggested, stripped the holster and did a solid redye. I've got the Tan Kote on there now and it's looking complete ( didn't bother with Satin Sheen, which may also be a problem by adding too much moisture back into the leather). The dye I use is Kiwi Leather shoe dye. Its what I get locally and I've used it for a few years without much trouble - until now. So, I don't know if its the leather it doesn't like or I'm becoming lax in my process. Either way, I need to get it figured out, this is the 2nd or 3rd holster that's give me trouble. I wish I could get some good dye but unfortunately the only dye I can have shipped to me is EcoFlo. I might give it a whirl if Kiwi keeps doing me wrong. Of course, I can do the vinegaroon method. I just need to be sure to seal it well. I'm still unsure if it'll react with a pistol or not. Well, thanks again. Looks like I'll be getting this holster out tomorrow as planned. Edit: Thanks Mike. I posted at the same time as you and didn't see your response. Yup still in Japan. I may go to the vinegaroon. It'll be cheaper and more abundant, as well as will dye my leather like I need it. I also think I got a bad piece of leather. I never had these issues before. I've got the jug of vinegar and the rusty metal on hand. Matter of fact, it's an eyesore as it sits on the deck (rusting grill from the fire pit we took to a friends house) Do you think a seal of Tan Kote will do the trick after a dip in the vinegaroon? I'd hate to send out a holster that starts eating guns. You said you used Aussie to finish it. I have not found any locally but I'll see if I can have it shipped to me.

I'm suppose to be sending this holster out tomorrow, but the way it looks, its not going anywhere! This black dye is really causing me trouble. As you can see in the pics, there are spots where the dye did not absorb. And I am perplexed because I even wiped the leather down with rubbing alcohol to open up the pores. It seemed to do the trick in the trouble spots I was seeing during the dyeing. Yet after I applied my final coating, then this showed up. Can I save this holster? It's got dye, layer of Satin Sheen and a top of Tan Kote (yes, I know probably redundant, but applying satin sheen prior to Tan Kote is the only way I can get a smooth Tan Kote)

That's good stuff. I'd love to have one of those in my workspace.

Well, since it's more difficult to hand stitch a molded holster, I'm not a fan of it. I did however, make a holster pretty much spot on the same design as gunfighter (frankly its uncanny how similar they are!), but I did not use the same process. Instead I cut the pattern and mouth support w straps. Then I flipped to the inside and marked my stitch pattern with a marker so I know where to apply glue. And on the outside of the holster I marked the stitch lines with scratch awl (those are to be my groove lines so they get covered). Then I sewed the mouth support on the main piece. Then I ran hot water down the inside center of the pattern where my fold line was to be, and gently folded the holster over into place. I applied glue to the flats and pressed them together (I left an extra inch or so) and I clamped them tight with some padded spring clamps. When the glue was dry, pulled the clamps off and grooved my stitch lines and stitched. Then I sliced off the extra leather on the flats and did the edges. Now it was time to wet mold. That holster came out tight!

Rhome - I bet you can't get back fast enough. We're currently up in Japan (hubby is AD Navy) and I too am looking forward to getting to the States to really set up shop. Good luck with the paperwork and I hope your move goes well!

LIABILITY <-- that was my first thought "I can make it for you. Here, read this. Sign this. And sign here, here, here and initial here. Now get this notarized..."

When I used Inkscape, I burned a lot of paper and ink doing what I could have with a pencil and eraser. There was also a learning curve for the program. I spent way too much time fiddling on the computer than I should have. I agree with what Regis said about using the tools you use best. Some folks it may be ACAD, some the old school method. Remenber when OCC Choppers on tv went to their fancy dancy water jet machine....and they did a lot of design on the computer. Well, they definitely hired new blood to run those programs and be the design guy. Otherwise, its a steep curve in addition to the time it takes to continue building. Itd be nice if us human had downloadable update capability, get us up to speed on using new technology within a few minutes lol

Tried Inkscape for a bit, but I found I'm more effective with pencil and paper.

Each time I use a new color I'm so happy, like its the first time I've seen colors Bison Brown - nice.

Interesting work. I'm mesmerized by the pattern on the black holster.

Rhome, the holsters look great. I'm tempted to start trying exotic skins but I handstitch so I'm thinking it'd be pretty tough. Anyhow, great work. You mentioned P.I (a familiar term). Are you military?

Ohh yeah - that'd be a great setup Ohh blue guns..the dust cover on the Commander is actually specing out .01" wider than the Springfield. Hmmm....

Thanks Rhome - that's a good point about the safety position. TwinOaks, that totally flew over my head lol It was late, but yeah, that'd definitely be expensive. I suppose I could write them off as supply but then they could never leave my work area!

<br /><br /><br />Yeah, this second piece I have glued up has been sitting so it's all cured, it still needs to be punched. The first holster I got punched and sewn and so it's molding now - thank goodness. I think the upside is that I use a VERY thin amount. The bottle warned of not overapplying so, for once, I heeded :D

Thanks Bruce, you are right it isn't Barge. There in my second reply I realized I was using Gorilla Glue I am glad to hear that Barge has good working qualities. I've yet to try it. No worries if I do!

lol Well the only problem with that is they don't make blue guns for all the real models out there. Boomstick, if I got it close to right, the dust cover width on the SA specs to .741". I do liket hat it does account for the ambi safety and resembled the CDP II in features more closely than the standard Colt 1911. Especially in that it'll be C&L on a sweat guard.

Marlon, I'll see what I can order from Tandy. Glue and black dye are the only things I can normally buy locally. But I may switch it up if it can be shipped to me. I'll check out the Feibing's cement. Thanks

Thanks Boomstick and Jordan. I think I should have explained myself better. For example, if a customer wants a 5" Kimber holster - should I mold with a Springfield or the Colt 1911? I was wondering if the models that don't have blue guns are better to mold with a particular gun. So, seeing as the Springfields usually have a wider dust cover, probably go with the Colt since as you said smaller is the better side to err on. Unless they want a 5" Springfield...then use the SA :D

Oh my gosh I'm out of my mind! I'm using Gorilla Glue, not Barge.

I'm punching the stitch holes on holsters I've glued with Barge - it is difficult! Prior to Barge I used 3M Super Adhesive. It worked great, I just used the tube pretty fast and that stuff is expensive. Then I tried some Bondo brand 'G Clear' (Japanese) that's specific for leather. It worked fine for a bit, but on this new leather it seemed to fuse the contact layers, but the edges would end up cracking apart. Things were still glued, but there was a crack that I didn't find very sightly on my edges. Made me question the long-time durability of it completely. So, you folks punching through Barge, any tips? Am I going to have to go into super-maintenance mode on my awl?

I was wondering if we could shed some light on blue guns to fit real guns. Particularly in the 1911 department. Where do the Kimbers, Taurus, Wilson Combats etc fit into the Colt and Springfield blue gun line up? Ambi safeties? What's the difference between the Colt and Springfield blue guns (the only 1911 blue guns available)? Is it in the length and width of their dust covers? Unfortunately I don't have access to any guns right now so I can just compare them side by side. Any help is appreciated. I'd like to be able to send out well-fitting holsters for requests I have, but I don't have the opportunity to fit test with the real gun before shipping it out. I need some help matching blue guns to real guns. Thanks

BOOMStick may have broken the mystery. He mentioned to try rubbing alcohol prior to dying to open the pores. As it turns out, one the splotchy holster I wet molded with a warm water/dishsoap mixture. But on the good dye job, I wet molded using warm water/rubbing alcohol. That might be the difference there.

Thank you You know what, I think you just said the magic words that broke the mystery - alcohol. I normally use warm water and rubbing alcohol to wet the holsters for molding. I did so with the snap on. BUT on the High Ride for some reason I decided to use the warm water and dish soap. That could be the variable I was looking for - Thanks!

High Ride Pancake. This has less cant than the Original but similar styling, plus a swear shield. Like the dye job? This was the trouble I spoke of in my post in the Dyes section. Compact Snap On. I think think this one is my new favorite. So comfortable and I used the color mix that abn used on a belt he made. It came out just gorgeous! Thanks for the tip! My photo job doesn't do this holster justice.