Shorts

You can use a sealant to coat the inside. Depending on the type, some are harder than others. So far I've only used Satin Sheen and Tan Kote to seal the inside. Tan Kote dries harder the Satin Sheen. I believe Resolene is used as well. I have no experience with that yet so I cannot tell you how it feels. I don't line my holsters with anything. But suede is the one I see used most often. It was common talk that the chemicals in suede liners wasn't good for guns, but again, just talk I've heard/read. I don't have any experience with the damage the suede can or cannot do to a gun's finish. Or how long it takes/conditions/time needed for damage to occur. For all I know, its just a myth. For cement, I've used 3M Super Adhesive, but when available, Gorilla glue. I flip the pattern to the inside and trace the stitch lines with a Sharpie (so I know where to put glue), then rough the glue areas with 100grit sandpaper, then apply glue to both pieces of leather. Wait a minute or so to let the glue get tacky and stick them together. I lay a hardback book on top for some weight so it stay good and flat.

Yes, you press the gun. And don't call me Surely Here's the thread with what you're looking for: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...hydraulic+press

Thanks Randy. I use 8/9oz leather.

The color you used makes me want to sit down with a cigar and a smooth beverage Nice work.

I told Dad I'd like to make him a holster for his GI and this is what I'm sending him. Just a belt slide w/body shield, in Kiwi Black. Yes, Kiwi leather dye (long story there). But its responsible for the shine and thick coat (certainly not the Kiwi black leather dye I've bought before). It's top coated with Satin Sheen, I was hoping to mellow out the icy bling reflection. Anyhow, I'm glad to be sending this one out - I hope he likes it. A little QC on my part It's actually a very comfortable rig!

Thanks guys. Srigs, I was worried the color was going to come out too red, but it worked out. Also, up close the holster has a bit of a marbled look to it. Even after a good drying and buff, the Tan Kote rubbed the color a bit. Thank goodness it's very subtle. It's an accidental effect that is beautiful when just right, but it can go horribly wrong.

Go to the Harbor Freight website and search 'arbor press'. There's I believe a 20T hydraulic bench top press for pretty decent price. One of those with some 1/2" flat metal plates welded for the top and bottom sandwich. Then add a pad of gum rubber to each plate.

Ah I see. And I read that post - where is my memory going these days?

Thanks for the tip Randy, it's working. I still need some practice but it's getting better!

Very cool presses! I'm so tempted but I don't think the USPS would appreciate shipping one of those

You did a nice job on that. Did you attach the J hooks with chicago screws? What I find interesting in making holsters is not so much cranking them out in numbers, but actually refining a pattern to fit and function well. Very nice

This is the first holster pattern I ever built. It was for my Beretta Cheetah 86 and thought I'd resurrect it. Finished in Dark Mahogany color and Tan Kote

I recieved my shipments of a few dyes and finishes yesterday and I'm toying with them today. I noticed with the Tan Kote, it's pretty thick stuff. I like the way it dries hard, but I don't like the way the finish can come out uneven and you can see the application strokes, even after a good horsehair buffing. Is ther a way to cut Tan Kote a little bit to make it easier to apply and less chance of drying to see strokes? It's sticker than Satin Sheen, and finishes with a shinier finish Iduh, "satin") lol but I like the way it dries hard. Ideas? I also have an airbrush and I'm not afraid to use it!

Unfortunately on the metalfab side of the house, I don't have a box here But back home I probably can get Dad to put a little gum to the metal and get what I need. Besides, if it gets him more and nicer holsters, why not, right? :D

Whinewine, you said it about needing and not having a variety of sizes. Searching the vendors last night I noticed I'm going to have to buy several packs of sizes to mix the tops and bottoms for the lengths I need. I'm going to have snaps everywhere! Guess its time to get the tackle box I've been anticipating :D

Thanks Jordan. I don't have french edger but I did recess the hole (I remembered reading that here on the site) and I still couldn't get it. I'm sure part of that difficulty is my inexperience with these things

Ok, just venting. I just got done destroying a good holster trying to get the bottom pieces on double thick 8/9oz leather. It was close, I compressed, got it closer but in the end, the things just didn't work. I waited 3 weeks for this order to get here! I guess the upnote is the top parts went together like they were suppose to. So at least I got what looks like snaps Who makes long post line 24 snaps? 3/16" just doesn't cut it.

I think the reason Macs don't have many viruses is Windows has been the largest OS for computers for a long time. Essentially Windows was the medium almost everyone worked on. And that included hackers. So, many a virus was born on Windows OS. At least, that's my theory on it Give Macs time, I'm sure there's stuff for them in the works lol

That concern has surfaced. I keep seeing the slots only 1/8" wide. I make mine 3/8" for a single layer belt (a full 1/2" with the edge beveled).

My my my, "clutch out"? Guess who has bikes on the brain? Thanks Luke, I've seen them and will probably take the plunge. I was surprised to see they're fairly expensive for a punch, but I guess its that darn good

I'm wanting to purchase a punch badly. Up to this point I do the punch two holes and then clutch out the center with a straight edge. But I'm getting tired of that and think I could make much cleaner holes using a (oval? oblong?) punch. What do you use? I make my slots at 1.5" size.

The easy way to take care of the perp is to just add in a remote detonation device, with the remote on her watch. If someone runs off with the purse - good BOOM Ok, I've watched one too many movies. Nice work on the purse. I've seen and read many stories if ladies who've been held up and it's been the action of 'digging through t heir purse for money and jewelry' that's allowed these ladies to pull out their firearm or pepper spray and get away from the perp. I wouldn't underestimate it. But, as John said, if the dude gets ahold of it and runs off, well...might be gone for good...unless.. LO Jack is installed.... :D

Yes, you can redye, assuming you have the other types of dye on hand. I think the OP was miffed that after dyeing he went back to finish the holster and it bled on him so he had to redo that step again. I'd be kicking myself too! lol The idea behind these water-based dyes is they're easy to work with and nontoxic so they're very easy to get/ship. However, depending on what projects one is using them on, you have to think long and hard 1) will I be able to use this dye effectively? and 2) how do I change my process to accomodate it? I think that's the toughest thing since once you have your process down on how you make your projects, it takes some thought to catch yourself instead of just proceeding forward with normal. Have to change things up after setting a regimene.

Is that including after a top coat is applied? Anyone familiar with the mix ratio to use with denatured alcohol?

Well I'm currently going over this predicatment now. Ecoflo was only dye I could get ahold of so I'm stuck. I suppose one could combine the dye and mold process here, which would work fine for holsters which haven't been built, molded and dried waiting for a dye and seal. It is with these holsters that are still raw, yet formed that I'm wondering if the suggestion by abn would work. Would denatured alcohol work as the medium for the dye application which would leave the molding in tact?? Possibly application by an airbrush?