Shorts

lol I've though about it but never have. They get cut fater stitching, before molding. It works for me

I prefer my holsters to be tight enough that if held upside down and shaken the gun does not fall out - like a DQ Oreo blizzard :D Everyone has a different retention preference depending on gun and holster and carry position. If its too loose, build it tighter. I think it makes for a tighter fit from the beginning if you stitch first, then wet mold. I noticed you molded before stitching. For a good fit of the leather, be sure to press it to the contours of the gun both front and back, and bone the lines as well. This will give a nice fit. btw, I really like your stitch lines - they're nice. Is that by hand or are you using a machine? If so, which one?

What an excellent experience and gorgeous saddle!

I think I will go ahead and try another supplier. I would like my veg tan to mold up firm as they are for holsters. I also need them to finish well. I'm not needing easy/good tooling properties, just a smooth grain finish that will look rich when dyed and topcoated. I would like the leather to be on the firm side, the ability to take less-than-gentle handling during construction is a real big plus as I'm not graceful with my one hand and working I use a lot of knees and elbow, as odd as that may sound lol

Most I make are. I think this is probably the last time I make this order. I'm a bit disappointed and halfway angry this is what I was sent and clearly not corresponding with the description that was put forth. This was not the first time for the above result and I've had it. Well, this is a shoulder. Which I just read recently more and more shoulders are looking this way all the time. It's probably time to get away from shoulders and this supplier. I've been thinking about this the last couple weeks and upgrading a bit more. Maybe this is the sign it is time to do that. Any US suppliers ship USPS Priority??? (I've been thinking of Montana Leather Co. w/Herman Oak) I'm disappointed. Like the kid opening presents at Christmas to find a pair of black socks instead of that hot new game. The leather is representing me and my name every time it goes out the door to a customer. I'm feeling its time to back it up much more.

Thanks Troy. Yep, sorry about the lighting, I be a terrible photog lol This leather was intended to be used for holsters.

If you received this piece of leather in your order, what would be your reaction? Would you be pleased? Would you be dissatisfied? Would you be indifferent? What do you think the cost was? Bear in mind, this is a working piece which you ordered, to be used for pleasing presentation for customer's orders.

That is correct, they are 8-32. I'm using some here for quick mock-ups with the stud screws on my IWBs. The only hold up to snugness is the length of the screw. One of the thing I did to secure a chicago screw was you dab some gorilla glue on the inside of the hole in the leather, so it'd secure the chicago screw. I did that on a quick wrap around handle I made for tool. It works well to hold the C screw from spinning as the screw is snugged down. I do not know how long that will hold, but for something that won't get adjusted but once in a blue moon, it works like a charm.

Jeff, nice holster. And you did what I was thinking of suggesting - the wooden dowel. That holster will be a challenge to build Jordan but you've got some ingenuity behind your thinking - you can do it. As stated above, keep your time and work in perspective with the cost.

I see, ok. Thanks for the list. I've got the 8-32 Tnuts on the way from MmC and can put in the order for the screws and the washers. I was curious about those counter sunnk washers. I have only seen them once and was unsure of them at the time. I take it the plastic line is pretty cheap and thus recommended for the application? I have a good supply for that - the hardware store I frequent. I often use those clear lines for bleeding the brakes on the bikes and trucks. Its pretty pliable and comes in a variety of sizes so I'll be able to select the proper one. My one 'i wish' would be if Tnuts were closed and finished like the backs of chicago screws. Makes a nicer presentation. But alas, wor kwith what is available. I noticed the Tnut prongs are long, I'll get them to length.

See Mike, there you go with your "common sense" again. Keep that up and I'll have to put you on speed dial Ok, I should finish up with this cross draw pattern already. I'm gearing up for IWB hardware to rollin too. Then I can finally continue my path of world domination...which of course is my work room for now :D

I like using horsehair to buff my holsters before and after topcoating. A simple brush from a shoe polish kit works great. I have not tried wool buffers so I cannot make a comparison for you.

What hardware do I need and how do I stack them in my leather? I'm considering using them on holsters, but more particularly on mag punches.

Thanks for the thoughts gentlemen, they give me some things to think about. The reason I posed this idea was I got feedback from customer saying that'd be the only thing he'd change on the holster, mold to C&L. And yes, you can probably guess what my thoughts on it are. I do have several 1911 blue guns, including the C&L Springfield. The gun/holster in this question is a Colt Commander. I cannot use a full size Springfield to mold a Commander holster. Also there are slight dimensional differences in the brands of full size 1911s so it is important the correct blue gun be used (the Colt 1911 is slimmer than the Springfield). As for the 3", that *seems* to be universal around the board for the most part. No complaints yet. Bill I am considering dropping Ring's a line to make mention of it. I know I wouldn't be the first to make the suggestion, it may help them decide to put one out. Thank you for the contact info. Mike, I'm not sure if the sweat shield holsters are as tricky as thumb breaks in the thumb safety regard (I've never carried with them). Hubby had a Glaco thumb break that liked to flip the safety off on a C&L gun. I always wore holster w/o thumb breaks or sweat shields so if the safety was off, it was because I moved it. Jeff, speaking of breaking parts, I broke the tip of the grip safety off my Commander several days ago. I might round that all out for a BT grip safety Of course, it really doesn't matter one bit to the holsters what's going on with the tip of the grip safety, I just don't leave my things alone. Aluminum bar stock you say? Funny how I have a strap of that lying on the floor...and Gorilla Glue on the table... I wonder what the implications would be if I had both positions molded into the holster. Sure, the dummy gun would look funny, but the holster would be molded for either and carry preference would be the user's choice. Of course, I see it as all common sense, but as mentioned, there are some real characters out there who would say it was my fault they NDed. The "L" word, probably should consult with one. Kevin, thanks for the info. I'll start letting the customer's know the position the thumb safety will be molded in. The risks do need to be addressed. If they're ignored, they'll only come out of the closet one day.

I love Ring's blue guns. However, I wish the 1911 models were all C&L. Has anyone added an additional piece to simulate locked on a non-locked model. I was thinking of just adding a nice piece of epoxy for the thumb ledge. This gives the added bonus off molding both positions at the same time. Any thoughts? Oh, before it is suggested, I know if I mold from the real thing I can position the buttons how I prefer. Unfortunately at this time I do not have any access to firearms due to location. So, molds are all I have for the time being...and next 7mths.

Oops typo! That should say "flap" Thanks for the heads up and the link. Can I build this holster without a model to mold? I'm not boning or wet molding in detail, but is a model necessary for the general shape?

I've had an inquiry from someone wanting a civil war flat type holster for a Remington 58 copy. I've never built this type of holster before but I'm up for the challenge. Are there any tips or tricks I should know about? This is a new ball game for me. And to make things even harder, I don't have a dummy gun or model to work off of. So, can it be done?

Thanks John, I will look for some Impressive it held out on fishing waders, which are not used lightly.

I'm trying to figure out what size and type of needle I have - I want to get more of them. Here is a picture, I need to identify the top needle. I have no idea where I get it from or when, but I've found I use it best when hand stitching. The length is 2& 5/8" (6.5cm) and it is 3sided sharp edge. The glover's needle is only 4.5cm in length and is 3sided (it is the larger of the two glover's needles that Tandy sells). For comparison is the standard stitching needle on the very bottom.

I'm not 100% sure I can say anyone's in their right mind's these days This holster is too cool! I've had it sitting here getting set up before I pack it in the box - it seems to get darker the more it 'cures'. (waiting for the tacky of the Resolene to dry off) I'm going to be sad to see this one go. I've been trying to photograph it some more to get better shots of the color - I'm honestly fascinated how it's taken off on its own. I guess each piece you work on will develop its own personality so to speak. Very interesting.

Oh yes, I'm familiar with FOD (my hubby is a Navy pilot). And you can most certainly bet that those monkey bags get washed every chance possible! Yeah, it's the soft side of velcro that is already on the flight suits. I tried a test piece a couple years back and made hubby a leather tag for his brown jacket. Sewing the hook side of the velcro by hand to the leather was, let's just say 'interesting'. He approached me the other day and asked if that's something I'd be interested in. I'm considering it.

Ok, I'll try that. Your analogy is pretty spot on for what I need it applied to - in this case, flight jackets and flight suits.

I was curious what's the best (easiest?) needles and thread to sew velcro backing to a piece of leather, without a sewing machine. The application its for is decorative patches.

Thanks! Ahh the Randall - that would be a pretty neat pair!

This is a Govt HRP going out to a pistol instructor and slated to make an appearance in IDPA. Instead of swabbing the Java Brown I opted to airbrush. Methods of application can really change the personality of a dye. I'm excited to send this one out and I certainly hope it performs as needed. I had a good time making this one. I had to check, recheck and then check again when doing each step as it was a leftie. Backwards..upside down...cross-eyed, you name it, I felt it lol Of course, I did the obligatory trace-the-pattern-backwards on the leather. There was surely a reason I always trace on the rough side I also pressed my stamp after the leather dried from molding (thanks Jeff!). It yields an excellent impression. Be told, the backside of the leather will have a flat press mark from the pressure. For the most part that will be covered by the dye as well as be on the backside of an item. The finish is Resolene airbrushed on at full strength.