Shorts

Aww thanks yall!

It's great to see the 3000 in action. Coming from a handstitcher, you lost me The entire process will make more sense as I become familiar with stitching with a machine. The 3000 is on my list. I appreciate you taking the time to get a video together.

Thanks Rhome This one is going to roll out for testing so I can determine its final build for good. It helps to have supportive friends. This one has it's share of not perfect edges and a few wonky spots from being the tail end of a side, but the design is there. If that holds up to the concerns I have, it should be a go.

This is actually the holster I referenced in the "one side double, one side single" thread below. I had been tossing the idea around and decided to give it a try. I have made a previous model with tunnel sewn on the back and front strap wrapped on the mouth. I wasn't pleased with the way the back of the holster shaped when it was done. Some of that is due to the my design and the angles. There are a few things I'd adjust on this holster, but overall, I'm pleased with it and a step closer to the final style.

...in Bison Brown

I'd like to comment on Kydex. A big plus to kydex/polymers is that the holsters can be readily equipped with locking mechanisms instead of a thumb break. In the Open Carry and Law Enforcement communities, for example, Blackhawk Serpa holsters with the various levels of locks are very popular. I know for leather makers, Galco has tried several locking mechanisms in their lineup. A variety of retention methods is good. I'm not posting this to open a debate on OC, kydex vs leather or best retention mechs. I'm simply posting to relay holster characteristic information

Thanks guys, it's a one piece wrap around type. I had to skive the inside piece since all I have is 7/8oz. But I think I would like to get some thinner pieces to line with the way I'm building this holster. I'll have pics up soon, I finished this one up last night and I like the way it wears. My concern is that the tunnel loop lasts and doesn't get floppy or loose. Can that happen on those types? Or am I worrying over nothing? Mike, you're right, it does take more stitching. Oddly enough, building this holster was more pleasant than building it with the sewn tunnel loop lol Lobo, thanks for input. I was hoping there wasn't a disadvantage to using a double layer (other than using an extra piece and stitching) like it would make the gun stress the single piece more than normal. Randy, I definitely like the way the 7/8oz molds

The reason stiffness matters is what madmax said above, the mouth collapsing and making one hand reholstering more difficult and not smooth. This isn't much of an OWB issue, though I like good and stiff. But the big thing these days is IWB. Many folks wearing IWBs want a holster that will not collapse when they pull the gun. Well I can agree and disagree. I don't think one handed reholstering matters if you ever pulled your gun in defense. Chances are you aren't reholstering anytime until the threat is stopped and you have to sort out some things anyway. BUT on the other hand, folks need to practice their draws. Lots of folks do dry fire practice at home (I am one of them). Lots of folks do live fire drills out at the range (I am also one of them). Learning to draw from the preferred method of carry is vital. And, in order to practice drawing, you have to reholster. Now you can insert the preferred method of mouth support here. Makers have different methods like metal inserted, kydex or a leather piece. Soooo, all in all, do your leather how you prefer. Customers talk and compare notes and yap on the internet. Some characteristics will sell a holster, some won't. It depends on the customers. The beauty of it is that we all have our own methods and we all have folks who we've supplied and made happy.

I'm working on a holster out of curiosity and I have to ask, but I think I've heard the answer before, is there a downside of using a double layer on the backside and only the single layer on the front side? Will the thinner front side wear out any faster than if it were just single layer on both sides?

Aw guys, come on. Its not all marketing hooey. Its a balancing act

Harvey, I'm definitely a long way from Pro but I know this stress of which you speak. These days, things get hammered on the anvil if I'm really ticked. Luckily (I don't keep a baby sledge inside), and it's only been some line 24 snaps on straps that soon became scrap....and my cheapo airbrush...which come to think of it, I don't think was the problem as I had initially assumed Anyhow, under that much tension if I sit and work, I can't think straight, my hands start shaking as I get angrier and angrier and I have to step away from the leather. Sure, time is crucial, but so are materials and quality of work. I've found it's best for me to walk away for a bit, even an hour or so. I clear my head, slow down, relax, and then go back with a renewed sense. Not only do I finish the item timely, but it is finished well. I think we all have ways to blow off steam - its wise to use them constructively if we can. If not for our benefit, at least to reduce collateral damage.

Dave, beautiful work. Thanks for the tips. I wondered how that process was done.

Same here. I've found that I cannot do that method neat and clean. For now I just a hole punch all the way down the length of the slot. While easy, it leaves my belt slots with 'teeth'. I clean the slot up with the dremel and a stone but it just doesn't finish as nice as a solid oblong punch would. And I haven't found (haven't looked too hard either) an oblong punch that is wide enough for a belt slot in one punch.

Nice work. What do you cut your belt slots with? They're nice and clean.

Speaking of airbrushes I bought a Badger 350 last night. My cheapo HF $5.99 airbrush finally bit the farm and I had gear on the table needing top coat. Good work Tac on the gear. I've used the AB these past 6 or 7mths and I'm happy with the results. I can't stand dealing with clogged nozzles/cleaning/etc but I like the results When spraying Eco-Flo, I wear a mask. While it isn't toxic it does get in my sinuses and airways and well, its gross. If you're spraying other dye yall be sure to take precautions. No sense in hurting your health if the threat can be mitigated with minimal fuss.

I use the microwave to heat up my water/alcohol mixture to a nice temperature in a large Pyrex cup. Then I pour it into a Pyrex casserole dish where the holster is waiting. I'm not stateside yet, but will be by the beginning of February. The task of sorting and throwing out is beginning now.

No worries, do what you gotta do.

Well...I use my Dremel for initial edge evening after the glue process. From there I use pieces of paper by hand on each holster (120, 200 or 320, 400). It is tedious, but considering the very expensive alternative, the paper-by-hand is what I have to do now. What is nice is the burnishing and final edge slick comes out real easy. At the end of the build, you'll have put in the time regardless of what step it was in.

Ian, that looks great! Sure sure, tone down the shoulders - no need to look like the 80s ladies The buttons are perfect finish too. What kind did you use?

No kidding. I love the drive up there too (to Houston). There's this great smokehouse on the way that I just can't pass up

I need to do some fast talking - I'll let you know What all is included?

Shameless monthly bump

dbarleather I also purchased a maker's stamp from Daryl and I'm more than happy with it. He uses Delrin (IIRC). Every once in a blue moon I use a mallet on it, but I mainly press my mark on my items now.

I use ondutygear.com. While $3 higher than Shootersbox, ondutygear.com automatically sends my items Priority to my APO address, which is paramount in my selection of suppliers.

Great replies gentlemen. I love hearing what is behind the motivation