Shorts

I'm just running through threads for new insights. I wanted to bump this one. I've been thinking regularly about "improving on ideas". We grow stagnate of we only reproduce what is already available. I'm taking it as a personal challenge to myself to look for improvements on my items for function and originality. I must say, it is a challenge. But it's something I'm looking forward to. The reward is worth the work :D

I did the same idea as Ian on the gun belts so that the bend is single layer. I've got a thread in here somewhere about Belt ends with pics. Instead of snaps, I use Chicago screws Err. nevermind. Seems I've cleared all my attachments so no pics!

I dye after wet molding and seal the EcoFlo with Resolene. I've yet to be contacted about rub off on the holsters and have experienced none with my belts. Oddly enough, the splashes of brown that were spilled on the leather didn't budge when dipped for wet molding If you want to dye throughout and be sure of it, dip dye.

One of life's great mysteries

Oh you so don't want to know!

On my holsters I don't do anything special on the inside. It gets done the same as the outside. I'm also wondering what kind of results you'd get if you attempted to wet mold the leather after the application of a sealer I don't really think you need to go through the trouble to smooth out the inside. A gun won't notice and it'll wear in the leather fibers anyway.

Depends on the required function of the holster. If the retention strap sits right where it needs to do on the gun, it should stay put.

Honestly, I wouldn't build a holster without the mold. If the customer is a friend and/or nearby, ask to use the pistol for a custom fit.

What are you stitching exactly? I only ask because depending on the project, a good dip in the wet mold water will brighten up the white stitching. On my holsters with white thread, after dipped for wet molding, I run the stitch wheel over the threads again to set them. Then I set the holster to dry. Once dry, I get nice clean thread.

In regard to the slots and the stitch line, a quick trick is to trace your slots on the drawn paper pattern as well as the stitch groove. This gives a rough template of where all your cuts and lines will be before you even touch the leather. Of course, things will slightly change due to the cutting and smoothing the shape of the edges, but you will have a better idea than if you went without. In order to do the stitch grooves, just take your groover and run it over the curves where the slots will sit. It'll make a rub mark on the paper that you can trace with a pencil. You don't have to do this all the way around the paper pattern, just at the critical areas where the slots will sit.

I prefer Resolene. And I will be trying out Angelus Finisher for comparison.

I use Line 24 and DOT. I'll be going exclusive to DOT for the finish, plus they make several levels of snap (easy, medium, hard) as well as pull the dot(directional).

Sweet - thanks Kate. I'll be seeing my folks soon and this looks a project that my dad and I would enjoy doing together

Ohh that's great! I admit I took the easy way out and didn't do a search But something like that is what I had in mind. Thanks Crystal!

I've hand stitched a couple of belts and while it is a time consuming process, the biggest hassle I'm having is holding the full length of the belt, supported in the pony. Now, I don't technically have a stitching pony. What I do have is a 4" Craftsman table vice with the jaws double padded with leather. I hold the belt there and stitch that section immediately within the jaws, then shift the belt through once the section is complete. The actual holding of the belt is fine, works great. What I do not like is that each end of the belt outside the jaws just hangs there and droops. The double layer gun belts actually do ok as the leather is stiff enough that I can stack some books on the far end of the table and support it. But the single layer belt is droopy. I'm thinking of making some jig that I can put the entire belt in, set it in the jaws and stitch the entire length without needing to move the belt (unless its for my comfort). It seems a straight and undrooped belt would make for a belt that stays stronger when its finally stitched. I imagine that a drooping belt would tension and pull, even on a very small scale, the stitches and leather that is already stitched, thus making a stretch in that section. Has anyone come up with their own jig and preferred way to hand stitch a belt? And thoser of you with stitching machinesare not allowed to come here and gloat!

That has a really neat cool look about it. Great job!

freetrapper, I love your look - nice work! I dig the mag pouches. btw, the hose for the tension screws is about what I use as well. I use the clear line as its what I have around for the brake work on the bikes/trucks :D

I don't pay attention to the grain

I only bend my straps/belts/loops when the leather is wet (especially on my holsters where loops are essential). This prevents the leather from cracking and allows for a nice conformed behavior when the strap dries. After the bend is dry again you can move it around without much worry. From there I go to dyeing and can manipulate the area as I need. YMMV but I've had good results this way folding 7/8oz and 8/9oz leather

That's what I do for snaps. It gives the back of the holster a nice clean surface. Offhand, Chicago screws have longer post in nickle, but only the 1/4" in black. (that I have found) Tnuts can be blacked for a nicer presentation when they are exposed. Though finding black Tnuts is like finding a unicorn or leprechaun Anyone looking for black Tnuts, see RawhideLeather in the Marketplace section Ohh, there is a great post about attaching snaps to a belt via rivets. I works beautifully and leaves a tidy clean look, let me see if i can find it.... Here it is: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...;hl=belt+snaps*

I use Tnuts and machine screw studs to attach my IWB loops. Mike touched on the Chicago screws as well (post length can vary). You can take a Chicago screw on the backside and a low shelf snap socket and use a small flat screw (8-32) through the center hole to attach. This method is a little more tricky since the female end of the snap can be finnicky about fitting over the screw (which is why it must be flat and small to set below the rim)

On the contrary, it sets them really nice. The wax on the thread keeps the fibers together so there's not too much danger to threads. I run my wheel several times in fact. First immediately after stitching then again during the wet mold process. I echo Marlon's sentiment about the compliments on stitching. I do all my items by hand and it has taken some practice to get the punching and stitching to a nice skilled level. But the overstitch wheel trick seals the deal

I'm not sure how well a handheld electric planer would work. I took my sample last night and she wanted the thread to match the belt. No problemo. I'll be punching the stitch holes today and be starting the stitching. Crazy enough, as I was showing the sample, one of the other girls asked if I'd make a gun belt for her husband for his birthday. So I picked up another order!

Yep, you need the two different punch thingies. Get the all in one kit from Tandy. It has the setters you need for Line 24 snaps, segma snaps, rivets. I use mine a lot.

Ed, that is beautiful What was the final decision on products for this one?