MG513
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Posts posted by MG513
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1 hour ago, YinTx said:Yep, I have two of them already, don't want a third. Hoping I can get the other two functional with some simple parts, like a bushing, but the suppliers won't quote me a part. Going to have to have them made it looks like. The world we live in.
YinTx
Whoa! Do u mean machines that you aren’t currently putting to use or skiving machines specifically?? (I hope not the latter!)
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17 hours ago, RockyAussie said:Sounds like you are getting it figured out alright.
Does the parts manual show a diagram of the feed stone wiper with a spring? Could you post a picture of it if so?
Where you say pressure foot pressure, do you mean the feed stone pressure? I am not aware of any pressure foot pressure adjustment
. I only have a Fortuna and a F.A.V.2 skiver so perhaps these may have something else I am not aware of.
Can we still get you to make us one of the roller feet? What would we need to send u down to do so? I believe most of these skiving machine parts are interchangeable.
Do u have suggestions on the vacuum extractor (maybe I missed the link). Until your reasoning I honestly didn’t see a purpose for one, sounded like one more thing to make noise in my (home) studio which I don’t want, but sounds like it could be necessary!
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27 minutes ago, keithski122 said:This is how I'd love to get mine working like
Lol wouldn’t we’ll all?? Pretty sure this guy has a nippy and I’ve heard nothing but good things about those. Seems hard to find in the states though.
I’m currently in the market for a skiving machine myself, one with 2 motors in hopes of lessening the learning curve so this thread is helpful. Really hope the original poster can get through this issue. It would really suck to have a $1500 paper weight!
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On 2/9/2019 at 12:01 PM, R8R said:Btw the synchro adapter is DA part number 0667 105100. $20 part.
It's also spec for the 867 but it fits in the 669. However, there is no access to a set screw for it, so just wrapped some tape on it and it's pressed in there. Seems fine.
Once I get this whole thing together I'll make a big post about the setup. Leaving town Monday so it might not be for another week or so.
Just checking in on this... How's it going with this machine?? Made anything with it yet? What do u think of it so far?
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On 4/18/2018 at 7:59 PM, brmax said:I believe the standard factory presser feet ( both ) are or have smooth surfaces that contact the fabric or materials.
These can be obtained from one of the Juki dealers here that contribute on the site. They may have options that can also be of interest.
Im not sure if a smooth feed dog can be had, though its been mentioned on the site a few years ago.
Good day
Floyd
Thx for posting this, I hope this guy still has access to this dog!
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On 1/16/2016 at 1:25 AM, Wizcrafts said:Jeff;
The Juki LU-1508N uses the standard system 135x16 (leather) needles and can sew about 3/8 of an inch of compressed material with #138 thread. The LU-1508NH uses a longer Pfaff needle system: 190. These needles are about 3/16 inch longer than standard walking foot needles. Since the shuttle hook is still in the same vertical plane, the needle bar is raised up the 3/16" to keep the needle's eye in time. This also allows the presser feet to raise and alternate higher before they contact the bottom of the needle bar. The difference is that the class NH can sew between 7/16 and 1/2 inch of material. Also, changes to the shuttle allow it to carry #207 thread in the bobbin as well as on top. The list price is somewhere in the mid 3k range.
As for heavy duty cylinder arm walking foot machines, I use the Cowboy CB4500, which has a 16 1/2 inch arm, uses up to #415 bonded thread and sews up to 7/8 inch of leather. It comes on a pedestal table with a powerful servo motor and a 3:1 speed reducer. It can sew extremely slowly (well under 1 per second), up to maybe 5 stitches per second, flat out.
This was super helpful. I’m considering this machine for bag/wallet/belt making. I want and Adler but that just too pricey at the moment, the Juki looks like it too could get the job done. Thx!
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4 minutes ago, R8R said:Hmm...
Whaaaaaaaaaaaa!! I’m super jelly!!!
Get it all unloaded and setup and tell me whatcha think. It’s still on my list of “to get”s...
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49 minutes ago, Northmount said:What happened to November? I didn't sleep through the DST change did I?
Tom
LOL!
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On 6/14/2016 at 7:12 AM, shoepatcher said:Blackiy,
Two other things. The DA669 has a 2.5" longer arm than the Adler 69 and the Pfaff 335. Weaver Leather has them in stock. I think the price complete for the Eco on a stand with servo motor is about $3,800.00US. Do not contact Allen at Weaver this week because their annual auction starts tomorrow and goes thru Thursday. One of the biggest suctions for machinery and supplies in the US and it si held every year about this time. You will never get a hold of Allen in the next 2 days.
glenn
Me again, hope I’m not too annoying! I live in Ohio and just heard about this auction. From your experience, was the trip worth it? I’m really only interested in getting a 669 and possibly some hand tools, possibly a skiving machine if it’s cheap enough, but I’m not sure if the savings would be worth the 4 hour drive one way. I read another thread that had mixed reviews on how much one could actually save, especially on the more popular items. Since you got yours here, I figured 1 more opinion wouldn’t hurt?
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1 hour ago, shoepatcher said:It has 20mm lift. I would say 3/8" at least. Depends on the hardness of the leather. I use round point needles. 1/2" possibly. My suggestion is if you are in the States, send a leather sample to Weaver Leather Attention Allen Burkholder and have them sew the sample on a machine. They have them set up to sew leather. I do not.
glenn
Thanks very much!
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On 10/18/2018 at 9:05 PM, shoepatcher said:I bought the 669 in June at the Weaver auction. It is an Eco version. plain jane. I have it set up but I am adding a pneumatic foot lift to it. I own a Pfaff 335 and the 669 is way more powerful. longer arm, longer stitch and higher lift. It is a next generation machine. I have a 227 cowboy and neither it or the Pfaff 335 can touch the Adler. It worth the extra money because of what it can do and what I wanted it to do. I also have an Adler 205-370 with all the toys so I am covered in what I want to sew.
Hey, can u confirm how thick in ounces the 669 will sew?
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On 10/25/2018 at 6:17 PM, R8R said:Many (most) narrow cylinder arm machines can be set up to be dedicated synchronized binder machines. The feed dogs operate horizontally only (back and forth) in unison with the inner presser foot and binder attachment.
Most larger cylinder machines operate the same way most flat bed machines do - with elliptical feed dogs. The feed is up/back/down/forward. This is a more aggressive and active feed, but is tricky to make work smoothly with synchronized binding.
There are some exceptions, one example is the Juki DSC-246, which can be converted from elliptical feed for general sewing, to horizontal for binding by swapping a few parts when installing the binder features.
Thx again for all the help. I think I remembered another post where u said the binders for the 246 were hard to come by though?? Ive been on so many posts though i really cant keep up. I like the idea of being able to change the feed rather than being stuck with one type of motion. I will look into this machine again and compare it against the 335
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On 10/25/2018 at 9:00 PM, Uwe said:I don't actually do much sewing beyond testing that a machine works as it should. I generally don't make products with sewing machines, I make products for sewing machines. I'm trying to sell most of my machines once I fix them up, except for a select few "keepers".
The KM380 is actually a nice machine, but parts are getting nearly impossible to find. I eventually scored an OEM feed dog and an arm cover plate. Throat plates are positively impossible to get - I tried for over half a year. I ended up modifying a throat plate made for the Adler 69 to make it work on the KM380, just so I can make the machine functional. The modification was simple enough, grinding out the underside of the throat plate to make room for the swiveling feed arm to also move up and down.
In my mind, the downsides of the slim arm full motion feed dog machines has nothing to do with the function. The full motion feed dog is definitely a plus in my mind, save for certain binding applications as mentioned in earlier posts. The main problem I see is that these slim arm full feed dog motion machines are so rare that nobody bothers to make parts for them (unless they're current OEM production models.)
Thx a bunch for that info, really appreciate it. I guess i like the fact that it uses more common feet, unlike the other 335 types
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On 12/25/2017 at 5:19 PM, Uwe said:The Sunstar KM-380 uses "normal" bobbins, similar in size to Pfaff 335.
On the plus side, the Sunstar KM-380 does have a full motion feed dog, which is somewhat rare among small diameter cylinder arm machines . On most Pfaff 335 and Adler 69 class machines the feed dog only moves back and forth, but not up and down.
Hi Uwe, what are your thoughts on this brand now that you’ve had it a while?
Would u describe any advantages/disadvantages of a full motion feed dog?
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On 10/21/2018 at 1:50 AM, R8R said:Well so far I really like it, and it's smooth and pretty quiet. It's not the strongest climber but it will get me by for now. Still cleaning it and tweaking it a bit.
I will say that the 669 is in my future still. I can tell already that some projects will require a heavier machine.
FWIW the 335 has been around forever. This is essentially a Chinese built modern Pfaff 335, with many actual Pfaff parts. Generic parts are easy to find and cheap.
Thanks for mentioning the generic parts. I had been getting some mixed reviews on that. It’s super important that I can get spare parts easily and affordably as I’ll kinda be on my own as far as where I live and will be doing any adjustments on my own.
Once u get yours setup the way you’d like I love to know from your experience how thick you’d say the 335 can sew comfortably? Now that Ive narrowed my search down to this and a 341 style, I just want to figure out which one I should buy first... whichever one will mostly everything I’d need and then I could get the second one later, if I need the second one at all!
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22 hours ago, shoepatcher said:I would say go with the Cowboy 227. nice machine and reasonably priced. Get it before 1-1-19 since the price is going up by about 25%!
Thx alot for your input! And for the reminder on the price hike... I remember reading that elsewhere. That sucks.
After having this convo across a few different threads, I can say that I now know for sure Id prefer to get a cylinder with a narrow arm to get into tight bag spots, so (as of right this second) I think? the 335 may be my choice over the 227. Plus it has a synch binder, which i know Id want. With this stated, would u still suggest the 227 over a 335 type? I want the power/sewing capacity of a larger cylinder, but it possibly may not fit in areas where i really need it too.
However. My fuel pump went out my mid drive earlier today. Sooo... either way this purchase just got farther away and I'll just have to deal with the price hike once i get there. ;(
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48 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:I bought the 669 in June at the Weaver auction. It is an Eco version. plain jane. I have it set up but I am adding a pneumatic foot lift to it. I own a Pfaff 335 and the 669 is way more powerful. longer arm, longer stitch and higher lift. It is a next generation machine. I have a 227 cowboy and neither it or the Pfaff 335 can touch the Adler. It worth the extra money because of what it can do and what I wanted it to do. I also have an Adler 205-370 with all the toys so I am covered in what I want to sew.
Maaaaaaan. I’m not a cheap person (believe it or not), it’s just that I’m not sure if it will be worth it in the end. I mostly make stuff for me... Granted. Once the investment is made of course I may be way more inclined to recoup my funds, but then again I know me.
Thx for the input. I knew the Adler was in a class of its own, I just wanted to be sure there wasn’t a machine a little lower to get my feet wet!
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1 hour ago, R8R said:Ok to simplify my life (or complicate it?) I just scored locally a Mauser 335 with a full binding kit that will handle much of my binding tasks except the heaviest stuff. Machine is in beautiful shape, was impossible to say no!
Ok now I’m really out here by myself lol. I found a Mauser a few weeks ago, 2500 for the head only. I had never heard the brand name before. It’s a Pfaff copy I believe, right? but I’ve heard they’re parts are crazy expensive. My nearest machine shop is 4 hours away, something goes wrong I’m screwed. Plus I know the 335 tops out just under the 15mm thickness...
I’m good with traditional belts etc. I’d have the same fears pointed out by others about when the direct drive goes out then, what?
It sounds like if I adjust my thickness requirement, the 335 type may work for me and may find one closer to my price range... hmmmmm
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4 hours ago, R8R said:Nope.
I am looking hard at the Adler 669 now, mainly because (except for the price) it has everything you described. It's actually not terrible in price compared to say a brand new Juki, and there are levels to the 669 - Eco, Classic, etc that give some cheaper options. The Eco versions are basic belt-driven and the Classics are automatic with direct drive options, etc. A new Juki 2342 is only direct drive with auto functions - there are no cheap options to that machine and you pay for a bunch of bells and whistles you may not need.
I mainly want a cylinder arm machine that can match the capacity of mu Juki 2810 that doesn't have a bunch of extras that tag on a few thousand bucks.
69 - 138 or maybe 92 - 207 with some tweaks.
High foot lift
Synchro binder option
Longer arm with a narrow arm if possible
Adjustable vertical lift knob
Adler 669 has all that.
Nooooo don’t say that
! Man. I guess I’m going to have to consider this after all then. I definitely would want a synchronized binder and I think the narrow arm is a necessity. Hurry and buy so u can tell me if its really worth it 
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21 minutes ago, MG513 said:May I ask, what is the advantage of a “synchronized” binder?? I assume there is a difference between that and one isn’t synched?
NEVERMIND! I looked it up and found the answer... I couldn’t figure out how to delete my previous question though.
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On 10/15/2018 at 1:49 PM, JJN said:Interesting. They call this a Cowbow CB6500 medium to heavy sewing machine. It looks exactly like a Juki LS-1341. That binder is not synchronized, just bolted to a metal plate. I looked at the specs and they list maximum thread as 277 but the needle range is 20-24. I think a 277 thread needs a 25-28 needle, doesn't it? I don't have any personal experience in this range of thread. It must be fairly new as Cowboysew posted the video 3 days ago. Maybe one of the Cowboy dealers can comment here.
May I ask, what is the advantage of a “synchronized” binder?? I assume there is a difference between that and one isn’t synched?
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16 hours ago, R8R said:Juki 145 is a top/bottom feed (walking foot presser foot), not a compound feed feed (no needle feed). Similar to how a Juki DU-1181 or Sailrite Ultrafeed work.
The 246 is a compound feed machine with a higher foot lift and a bit more heavy duty.
The 277R is ..."kinda" comparable to the 669 in thread size capability but that's about it. 669 has a longer arm, higher foot lift, adjustable climbing, etc. It's about mid way between a Juki 246 and 2342. I'm taking a long look at it, seems to be the perfect machine for what I need right now.
Thx a lot. I really wish these websites added these types of machine descriptions, I have no clue why they don’t!
Anyways. Where would you say a Juki 341 or Consew 287 fit in this race? For me the parts and attachments seem more readily available and less expensive.
Is there a machine that can handle 69-138, has the ability to disengage the dogs when using for binding, and produces a nice top AND bottom stitch and last but not least isn’t more than $2500?? Or am I dreaming?
I also just found a thread you were on regarding the LS 1341 series too, as I first considered a used 341. U mentioned the Thor clone and I really I like the fact that it has the foot adjustment dial, but for the handbags/backpacks I plan to make I think that cylinder would be too big. This one really seems like a more heavy duty machine. Looks like u went with 2600 after all. How are you liking it so far? Their site says this tops out at sewing 10mm thick, do u have a suggestion for a machine 1 step up that could handle 15mm at the thickest?
I find all of these options a bit stressful.
EDIT: I didn’t read far enough. Now I see the 2600 didnt end up working for you
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1 hour ago, Uwe said:So which Consew model did you find comparable to the Durkopp Adler 669?
That’s the same thing I was thinking lol. Thought I must’ve been overlooking one of their models!
Your comments were helpful too Uwe. And I love your videos btw, watch them all the time even when they don’t apply to my machines! I clicked on those 2 Juki links, but I’m afraid I really don’t see the differences between these machines. I mean is there one?? What’s the difference between the 145 series and the 246?
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8 minutes ago, steadybrook said:I bought a Consew.
Thx for the quick reply. I’m in the market for one and I’m trying to narrow down the brands. I like the functions, including the longer arm of the 669, but it is way out I’m price range, even the accessories are expensive. The Juki’s and Consew’s sound more realistic for me, may I ask which Consew you went with? I own a 206rb and love it
Help a guy out with his new skiving machine!
in Leather Machinery
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Thx for the reply. I currently make footwear but I’m looking to get into bag making so I need this thing not mark, like ever (per say). I think that price is very fair, will keep that in mind once I do pull the trigger! I’m thinking of getting a Ferdco because it comes with the 2 motors for better control.
Unfortunately due to space constraints I personally couldn’t do the vac even if I wanted too. I would need to get the usual table cut down to pretty much the size of the actual skiver itself. I’ve seen many Asian makers due this for the same reasona. Probably butt it up against one of my sewing machine tables to have some sort of space for longer panels of leather to lay while skiving though, but the full size table is out for me. Will still have to find another solution for this leather bunching problem though...