dikman

Looks good. I often think isn't it a good thing Singer made those frames to last forever! They can be very useful indeed - and they look cool! My Pfaff 335 is on one.

Yep, I don't need another one but over the years I've realised I'm happiest when I'm making something. I forgot to mention that another improvement is the knob on the left, it's so I can clamp the lefthand tool to stop it moving around.

Yep, I didn't have any more of the smaller channel iron, this one was about the same length (so I didn't have to cut it) but is considerably heavier (it's been sitting in my forge for years!). I sat down for some time staring at the handle/pivot area and came to the conclusion that the design isn't very efficient when it comes to applying force and transferring it to the slide. So I'm redoing it similar to the original, shouldn't be too difficult, just some more cutting/drilling/welding. Hey kgg, don't you ever sleep?

I made another die bending jig. I had the idea to make one with a simpler linkage so just had to do it. Unfortunately while the linkage looks simpler it took a bit of messing around to get it to work, and the angle of the handle is too high which meant I had to put a hefty downward bend in it to get it to a comfortable height. I might re-make the handle linkage as my original idea seems to work better. The other difference is the push slide, the original square tube sliding in a square tube has a bit of slop in it, the rod version is quite a snug fit, but it meant attaching the fittings to it was more complicated. I now know how to make an even better one - but I won't as it will require too much machining and there's nothing to be gained.

You folks get to own some cool firearms, which gives you an excuse to make some equally cool holsters.

I'm not sure about using an impact driver but the idea of tapping the screw with a hammer is good, sometimes it can loosen a screw just enough to start it moving a bit, then work it back and forth. As for heat if you're using a small pin-point butane torch I doubt if you're going to get it hot enough to affect the hardness.

A straight-sided carbide burr to try and get a deep slot with a flat bottom and parallel sides. Try heating the screw again and then hit it with a freezing spray. Drill through the screw, sometimes this can relieve pressure on the threads and allow it to move. Doing this first and then heating should allow better heat penetration to the threads and then a screw remover tool. Just a few ideas, of course the screw will need to be replaced and if you can't get a replacement then re-tap for an allen-head grubscrew.

Nice setup, I knew you'd find some way of 3D printing something for it! The holder is very neat, by the way, if using jars it should be better than the hook-type thingy I have. Amongst my airbrushes is a Paasche like yours, very simple to use (and clean) and great for general use. It does require a higher pressure to run than internal mix units but for coverage work, as opposed to detail, it's a better brush to use. Rather than use an air splitter I fitted quick-release adaptors to all my brushes, simple to swap them and I only have one hose to avoid tripping over! Good writeup.

I wonder if that slit Bruce mentions is actually the result of a narrow sliver of leather being removed? If that was done top and bottom it would allow the leather to be pushed together to bulge up a bit, then stitched and finally wet formed.

You might be struggling but that came out great! Very nice work.

Definitely avoid the last one, it looks like it should work but doesn't!!!

If they have their own proprietary thread size why not just say so? I don't think Singer made any big deal about it. I'm curious to see what you find out.

To be so secretive about screw thread information is weird, it suggests to me that they don't actually know!

Maybe it is an SV model, these are notorious for having little, if any, information available about them?

Chuck made a good point about the powder in particular catching at the join, and don't forget plastics are notoriously difficult to glue. You might have to consider a "sandwich" layer, trapping the plastic between leather?