neelsaddlery

Hello: Is the needle deflecting to the left at all when you hear this noise? Does it do this only when there is leather in the machine and it is sewing? What happens when there is no leather in the machine and you run it empty? (be sure to take thread out of eye of needle when you do this). Does it still make the noise? If so, then I would look more toward the walking foot mechanism. Some of these machines will make a bit of a creak caused by the walking of the presser foot. Oil will help this. If it does it only when sewing (with leather in it), then I would look more toward the needle. I have sewn with Diamond needles a lot over the years and they tend to make a creak when sewing though certain types of leathers. The Groz Beckert needles do not do this. I know it sounds weird that the needle would have anything to do with this but it can and does. If the noise happens only when sewing then try a Groz Beckert needle. Hope this helps. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello: A slight movement of the needle to the left (about 1/32") is normal. This is caused from the hook lightly grazing the needle as it goes by. If the needle moves much more than this, then I would say you need to look at something more closely. However, if Steve says it is normal, then I'd say you are OK. Each manufacturer of the machines makes theirs a little different, so what is normal for one may not be normal for another. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello: If you are in Canada you could try Leighton's or Raphael Sewing. They both sell machines for sewing leather, and their prices are OK too. We offer leather sewing machines exclusively as well, but we are based in Ohio here in the USA. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Ray: Can you post a picture of this stand so that we can see it? I like the pedestal stands with wheels on them because they are pretty much infinitely height adjustable. The wheels make it nice because you can push the machine anywhere. However, the 4-legged stands work well also. If yours is not stable enough, you'll want to see if you can shim up the legs on the bottom. If the legs are not all touching the ground, then that can cause problems. Hope this is of some help to you. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello all: If you plan to sew lightweight materials on an infrequent basis, then the Tuffsew and machines like it can work OK. The largest thread these machines can sew with is about a 138. The bobbins are small in these machines, about the size of a nickel. The presser foot lift is about 1/4". I had a Sailrite machine (like Tuffsew) for awhile when I first got started in the business. It was a good machine for lightweight materials like chaps and so forth, but I would not say it was an industrial machine by any stetch of the imagination. Hope this is of some help to you. If you have any additional questions about machines, please let me know. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines 1-866-507-8926

Steve: You could try to contact with Artisan and ask them if they have any spare parts for it. I know they did at one time. Also, becuase they know about this issue, they may just plain offer to replace it. I think Artisan offers a 3 year warranty on their motors. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello all: Not all servo motors are created equal. Some generate a lot more torque at low RPM than others. The ones we are using now seem to do quite well at low RPM's. I can sew about 1/4" thick leather without having to help the machine out on a normal flatbed medium weight chap stitching machine. However, to get the best level of control and performance, it is wise to use a speed reducer in conjunction with a servo motor. The speed reducer will not only sew the machine down a lot, but it will also add a great deal of punching power. Think of it like gear ratios in a transmission. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines 1-866-507-8926

Hello: The flywheel should install quite easily. On the wheel you will see two screws. Simply slide the wheel onto the shaft being sure to install it in such a manner that the screws will clamp down into the v-groove notch on shaft sticking out of the sewing machine, and also the flat spot on the shaft which is 90 degress parallel to the v-groove. Tighten them up with a screwdriver first, then switch to a wrench for final tightening. As for the belt, you may need to adjust the spoeed redcuer up or down a bit to get it to slide on, or you can also just put the belt all the way on and then turn the wheel to pop it into place. Hope this is of some help to you. If you have any additional questions, please let me know. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines 1-866-507-8926

Steve: What is the brand name on the servo motor. Was it TCM, Artisan, or Newstar? There was a bit of a problem in the past with servo motors carrying these brand names. There was a problem in the past with some (not all) of the servo motors carrying these brand names. They were all made in the same factory overseas, and it seems that the factory produced a couple of bad runs of these motors. Not all of them were bad, but just certain ones that were made using some defective parts which the motor company outsourced. The bad news is, the motor company discontinued making the motor, and so now parts for these motors are getting hard to find. The parts were not available when we contacted the manufacturer. The problem seems to be with a defective speed control box inside the motor. It seems that when this box goes, then the whole motor either quits or just runs on. Since parts are no longer available, the best thing to do is just replace the motor. Most sellers of the motor know about this problem, and they will offer you a replacement motor free of charge as long as you are within warranty. Hope this is of some help to you. If you have any additional questions, please let me know. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines 1-866-507-8926

Hello: We offer a number of accessories that will fit this machine. We have holster plates, stirrup plates, flat slotted needle plates, smooth feed dogs, double toe harness maker's feet, left and right toe harness maker's feet, blanket feet, and left and right toe feet with the center dimpler foot, and a few others. All of our presser feet and needle plates are made of solid stainless steel. We also have speed reducers for your machine, which will slow the machine down and add quite a bit of punching power. These are good to use even with servo motors. We also have extra large balance wheels (flywheels) to fit this model. This will make it easier to turn the machine over by hand. We also offer titanium nitride coated shuttle hooks to fit this model, which will allow the hook to wear a bit better over time. These hooks are gold colored, just like drill bits that have this coating. Hope this is of some use to you. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to contact me on my international phone line, which is (330) 692-1418, or e-mail me at neelre@comcast.net Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello: We have several machines that could work well for holster and knife sheaths. The lowest priced new machine we offer is $1195.00. This is our Model 5 machine. We also offer a step up from this machine which is the same as the Artisan Toro 3000, Cobra Class 3, Ferdco Pro 2020, and others. Of course, the price is more for this model, but our version of this machine also comes with quite a few accessories and upgrades. Please feel free to call me toll free at 1-866-507-8926 and I will be happy to discuss the machines we offer. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

I actually sewed myself to a Tippmann Boss one time. Ran the needle right through my left thumbnail. It was not fun!!!!! Yes, speed reducers are a must for sewing heavy leather. Not only do they slow the machine down, but they also add a lot of punching power. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello: If you plan to sew saddles then you will definitely need a machine made for this task. Oscillating hook machines with barrel type bobbins are usually made to sew the heavier items. You can get into a brand new machine that will sew saddles for around $2195.00, which is much less than what they used to cost years ago. Granted, this is the lowest price new machine that you can buy, but it will certainly work well for the job. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness 1-866-507-8926 (toll free)

Columbo: Please tell us a little bit more about what you plan to use the machine for, and in this manner we can determine what the best machine for the job will be. If you plan to sew chaps, chinks, belt, billfolds, wallets, upholstery, and the like, then I would recommend one type of machine for you. If you plan to sew saddles, harness, knife sheaths, and holsters, then I would recommend a different machine. I would be happy to help you in any way I can. Please call me toll free at 1-866-507-8926 and I will tell you what I know about machines that may be suitable for you. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello: Might want to try using some thread lube, as it may be needed to keep the needle greasy enough to go through without the chatter. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello: Sounds like you may need just a lightweight/medium weight machine. If you plan to do top hats, you might want to look at a post bed machine or a patching machine like a singer 29K series. The bigger machines like the 3000 machines can work with lighter weight threads and sew light weight items, but if you are doing these items exclusively, then you may want to consider a more appropriate machine for the task. Because the 441 clones are made to sew heavy weight materials, they are not the best choice for lighter weight items. If you have any additional questions, please let me know. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines 1-866-507-8926

Hello All: The photo you sent is a Highlead machine for certain. It is the same machine as the Artisan Toro 4000P. The machine is billed to sew a bit heavier than the 441 clones, but in all honesty I don't think it will perform much better. There may be some differences in quality, fit and finish of parts, and longevity of the machine when compared to the 441 clones like what we all sell, but the price is also substantially higher. One thing to remember about Highlead is that they charge a big pile of money for the machines when they sell them to the dealer. So the dealer has to charge a lot more money for them because he has to pay a lot more for them. Whether you are getting that much more for the money is really up to individual preferences. One thing to also remember is that the Highlead machines, like all of the 441 clones we all sell, come from China. That does not mean anything bad, but remember that when you buy you a Highlead machine you are not buying a German or Japanese made machine. It is made in China like all the others. On a cost per quality comparision, I personally think the 441 clones offer better value. That is why I think so many people sell the 441 clones here in the USA as opposed to the higher priced Highlead Models, Juki Models, and Adler Models. The price of $3600.00 is actually a very good price for this machine if it is equipped the same as the 441 clones. I am suprised that the dealer can offer this to you for so low of a price. Does the machine come with a height adjustable pedestal style stand with wheels, variable speed servo motor, speed reducer, and halogen light? Just some things to consider. If it does come with all of this stuff, then I would buy it, as it is a very good deal. If you need some additional advice, please feel free to call me, and and I will tell you what I know about these machines, as well as others. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines 1-866-507-8926 (toll free)

Art: That is pretty much what I thought. In all my experience with these machines I have never found any method inside the machine which allows for adjustment of the reverse mechanism. Outside the machine you can do the "wedge" shimming or some variation on this, but that is all I ever knew you could do, with the exception of complete disassembly and re-machining of parts. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Nick: Yes, if you can, please let us know if the suggestions worked or not. I personally know of no adjustment inside the machine other than what I mentioned that can make the reverse feed line up with the forward feed in cases where it does not on the 441 clone style machines, other than doing some serious disassembly and changing the geometry of some parts by machining. If there is some special adjustment that can be made, please let us know about it. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

I do not know of too many lightweight cylinder arm machines that have flatbed tabletop attachments ready made for them. I have seen plenty of flatbed tabletop attachments for the heavy duty cyminder arm machines, but not for the lighter weight machines. There are a lot of cylinder arm machines out there that can do lighter weight leather that is about 3/8" thick or less. We sell some, as well as Artisan, Ferdco, Consew, and many others. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Nick: Saw from your profile that you bought a "Cobra 3/Artisan3000" machine. Did the machine already have the flat/slotted needle plate installed on it? Is there a feed dog installed on the machine? If it has the flat/slotted needle plate on it, then it will NOT have a feed dog installed. The flat/slotted plate has just a thin slit in it for the needle to go down through it. If it has the standard plate on it, then the slot will be much wider and the feed dog will travel through the plate. Some sellers set these up differently. If it has the flat/slotted needle plate installed on it, I may know what is wrong. Hope to hear back form you soon. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Nick: Is your machine a 441 clone style machine? If it is, please consider the following: Try this on the machine to see if it has been "zeroed" for the forward stitch to match the reverse stitch: Drop the needle down to its lowest position (at the bottom of the stroke), then lift the reverse lever all the way up as high as it will go and back down and so forth. With the needle at its lowest position, and by you moving the reverse lever up and down as far as it will go each way, you should see no front to back to motion of the needle bar. In other words, the needle bar should stay exactly where it is each time you move the lever up and down. If the needle bar does move front to back a bit when flipping the reverse lever up and down, then there could be an issue with the alignment of the internal components in the machine which are responsible with the reverse. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to change the internal components in the machine, but you can shim the plate that has the stitch length numbers on it out away from the casting a bit using some washers and that may make the forward stitch more closely line up with the reverse stitch. In other words, you'll either shim the top or bottom of the plate out a bit with some washers to compensate for the irregularity in forward vs reverse stitch length. It may sound crude to do it like this, but it would save you a big disassembly. Also, as far as when to engage the reverse while sewing, I personally prefer to let the needle travel all the way down to the bottom of the stroke before I engage the reverse lever. Under normal circumstances, this will insure the alignment of the forward and reverse stitches. I also saw the photos you sent where one side of the sheath has bigger stitches than the other. There are many things that can cause this. Please consider the following: 1. Make sure you are pulling the reverse lever all the way down and up when you are using it. If the lever is not all the way up or down in the slot, this can make the stitch length vary. 2. Make sure that the reverse lever has a bit of resistance to it when you lift it up and down. It should not lift up or down too easiliy. I have seen some of these 441 machines that have too little drag on the reverse lever, which actually makes it move up and down a bit when stitching. If the reverse lever is pulsing up and down when the machine is running, this will make the stitch vary quite a bit. There is a clamp screw inside the machine near the reverse lever which can be tightened to put a little more drag on the lever and make it feel a bit more stiff. 3. How about the alternation of the walking feet? Is the inside presser foot lifting up enough to allow the machine to pull the leather through OK? If not, I can tell you how to make the adjustment to allow the inside foot to lift up more. The inside foot should definitely lift up and clear the leather you are sewing. 4. Is the feed dog raising up enough in the slot of the needle plate? The feed dog should be at least 1/16" above the top of the needle plate when it is at its highest point. 5. Are you certain the machine is threaded correctly? I know this sounds stupid, but I have seen instances where excessive thread tension can cause a smaller stitch. Of course, if the thread tension is too much, then you might also fray or break thread. 6. Is the thickness of the leather the same on each side of the sheath? You will find that the thicker the leather, the smaller the stitch will become. If one side of the sheath is heavier than the other, then this could explain the stitch length difference. That is about all I can think of to be checking right now. There are a few more things to check that are not so obvious, but if you go through this list first and everything is the way it is supposed to be, then we can look at this a bit further. Hope this is of some help to you. Please let me know if there is anything else I can do to help. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Henry: This ties into my post earlier about how it is impossible to get away from China when dealing with sewing machines in today's day and age. The Tippmann Boss and Aerostitch are assembled in the USA, you are absolutely correct in this. And, frankly, a lot of the parts that are particular to these machines are made in the USA too. However, there are some common parts such as the shuttle hook, bobbins, some of the tension parts, some of the screws, as well some of the presser feet that they offered, and some other parts that are sourced from China. How do I know this.... I used to import bobbins and shuttle hooks for them some time back when I was a dealer for them!!!! There were several occasions when they ordered about 500 hooks and 5000 bobbins from me, which I imported for them at a better price than what they were buying them from their old importer. That is the God honest truth!!!! Call Jim Miller at Tippmann and ask him. They bought these bobbins and hooks from me on at least two different occasions. I do not sell to them anymore, as I think they may have found a better deal, found better quality parts, or went direct for these parts themselves. I contend that it is impossible to buy any new machine (with the exclusion of a Campbell or Randall) that is not tied to China in one way or another. It may be just a few parts, or it may be a lot of parts -- or even an entire machine or casting, but you cannot get away form China in one way or another when it comes to buying a new machine in today's market. Just my two cents worth. Kindest Regards, Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Does anybody know if the bobbins from Artisan are chrome plated, or are they sort of a sandblasted finish? We used to obtain some of our 441 clone machines from one of the manufacturers that Artisan used in the past, but in all honesty I never personally cared too much for the bobbins that came with some of that factory's 441 clone machines because they were never chrome plated, and seemed to be made of aluminum. It has been a while since I had ordered from that supplier, so they could have changed it. Also, Artisan may supply their own bobbins with the machines. I am just saying that when we got them direct form the manufacturer, they seemed to have more of sandblasted finish to them, as opposed to chrome. I personally liked the chrome ones better, as they were made of steel and not aluminum, also the sandblasted finish is not present on them. Just my two cents worth Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines

Hello all: A compound feed machine is a machine that is also called a "Triple Feed". It has a feed dog, a walking foot, and a needle feed. At least, this is the commonly accepted definition in the modern age. Machines that are compound feed machines will feed leather and sheep's wool better and more consistent, but they are also a LOT more money. Also, the use of a compound feed machine does not preclude the possibility of leaving marks on the leather either. Because the presser foot will walk across the top of the material, it can leave markings on the top side of the leather. Some compound feed machines can also leave feed dog marks on the bottom side of the leather as well if left in their stock form. However, you can get smooth feed dogs and also slotted flat needle plates to alleviate the markings on the bottom side. A drop feed only machine like our Model 5 will leave marks on the bottom side, but not the top side of the leather. My personal opinion is that a compound feed machine is a better overall choice, but if funds are limited and you need a machine to sew heavy leather, then a drop feed machine like the Model 5 or Ferdo Pro 440 can work fine. We also stock the compound feed machines similar to the Toro 3000 and Juki 441 as well. They are very good machines, but also they cost more by virtue of their design. The decision of which machine is better for an individual will depend on the nature of the work they are doing, as well as the money that they have to spend. It's all up to personal preference. Just my two cents worth. Ryan O. Neel Neel's Saddlery and Harness Cowboy Sewing Machines