pabloz

Safety skiver, AKA potato peeler. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003RL99KG

SSSWWWEEEEEETTTT!!!!!!

Colin, I have done it two ways....both equally successful. The easiest is to use a random orbital sander w/a PSA foam back & 50 grit disk....the next is a 3x7 drywall foam sanding pad and lots of elbo grease. Adjust the grit to your liking. PZ

According to Bob Beard, an indentation for stitching (crease) done when the leather is wet results in a stronger stitch since the leather under the thread is compressed instead of removing a layer of the epidermis. It also make for a cleaner looking stitch line after dye, stain or antique. PZ

I just put the stuff in the water/heater closet (both are gas) and whamo...dry by the time I get back to it afetr working on something else.

Actually this type of "hollow grind", being that it is perpendicular to the cutting edge, makes the two side bevels thinner in the middle where the concave grind is the deepest. It really does not affect the cutting edge as the cutting edge is the point at which the two bevels intersect. This is one of those things that comes down to personal preference and of all the various reasons told to me for its existence the most logical one I have ever heard is from Keith Seidel, "I also like a hollowground blade. Not for cornering, but for the ability to see wherethe cutting edge makes contact with the leather." This type of hollow grind can be done on most blades down to about .030" or .70mm thick, at which point the blade is too thin to grind much more. So by following this logic the thicker the blade the better advantage it has...the thinner the blade the less advantage it has. This would also be true for the other personal preference reasons. I do not put a hollow grind on the sides of my blades as they are usually thin "Sheridan Style" blades that are normally at or under 1/16". Also, Please understand that I am presenting this for educational information purposes as requested by Knipper (see above) and not as a spam/ passive marketing attempt. Thank you for taking the time to read my posting and stay SHARP, PZ

Another part that can be added to the sheath that really helps pretect the threads is a welt. I typically use 2-3 oz. scrap lining. You could make one a little extra wide so that the thread and the cutting edge have something substantial between them still maintaining a snug friction fit.

Gicts, Great point. I totally missed how much pressure is applied. SO....If you are using diamond hones heavy pressure is really not needed. They cut really FAST especially when new, therefore you only need light to medium pressure (as judged by you) to get a good cut. You will see the metal swarf coming off the blade and building up in a little grey pool at the ends of the hones. Once you get the burr to form all you need now is light pressure, which can be as little as just the weight of the knife itself, for the last few strokes until the burr falls off....or at least most of it does. Now you're ready to strop, again light to medium pressure, on green compound until all the burr is gone and you have a nice polished edge. Thank you for watching the video and your feed back. It really helps to improve on the next one.

WOW...I sure missed that one....it is woven.

That pattern is done using a geometric basket stamp made by Clay Miller.... http://www.facebook....120176791368237 . It might also be made by some of the other tool makers s/a Elton Joorisity, Barry King, Lonnie Height, Wayne Jueschke, Bob Beard, Etc.

Geez Colin...what'd you do.....dove tail the jaws and then thread and tap hardwood for the screw mechanism.......that really makes it a MAJOR PITA!!!!! I am very rapidly coming to the conclusion that you have no concept of "path of least resistance". LOL...you know I luv ya...RIGHT????

My favorite "rubber cement" has always been the Elmers brand used for photo mounting.You can get it almost anywhere....even Walgreens.

Art, Nice one....THANK YOU for a great tutorial. I have never tried horse hide. I'll have to give it a try.

I was once told about a facility, in Italy I believe, where large volumes of hides were embossed whole. If I remeber correctly, once the hides were tanned, then wringed they were moved 5-6 at a time onto an embossing platten that rose up from the floor and traveled upward into the actual embossing plate that was suspended from the ceiling. Once pressed they would go back down and the next platten of hides would come up. Once embossed they would then go staight into a huge drying room where they would also be prepared for delivery. This is my recollection of how it was explained to me. I wish I still had contact with the person who told me about this.....I would try to get more info....sorry.

SWEEEEET!

When I say regularly I mean cutting out 8 to 10 holster patterns and misc accessories every day, five days a week. Gee! Does that make me an active leather professional? Yup...reckon it does.

Terry, Thank you very much for the accolades and please know that you and your work definately inspire and motivate. Denster, Many people much older and wiser than me have made it abudantly clear that buying the best tools from the start is the WISEST of investments. Just think about some of those folks who bought a Lineman, a Buchman, a Dozier, etc....use it for 30-40-50 years and then hand it down to the next generation. Not only has the intrinsic value of the knife increased but so has the monitary value. I recently witnessed 2 Buchmans trade at well over 5x purchase price. One traded hands for $150.00 that was originally purchased for $35.00 and the second went for $250.00 after many years of hard use. Just Look at Bruce Johnsons site and the value of the knives he has available. Also, maintaining the edge on a custom knife is usually much easier from the start as they should arrive extremely sharp OTB with only minimal stropping and occasional sharpening required. I think there are plenty of very active leather professionals that will testify to sharpening, actually going to the stone, sometimes as little as once every couple of years....the rest is done on the strop or some variation thereof. And no, you don't need several diamond hones to sharpen a knife. Many professionals use only 1000-2500 SiC wet or dry on their tooling marble/ granite, plate glass....whatever. I use diamond just 'cause I'm too lazy. I will leave with a quote from my father on this "The best of tools in the worst of hands can't do what the worst of tools in the best of hands can. So imagine what the best of both can do."

Denster, You are absolutely correct..."there is no magic steel." The exact same logic applies to leather, wood, any material that anyone uses to fabricate something that they put their head, heart and soul into it. One of my favorite taglines here on this forum is Tina's.... "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist" The "Magic" in the steel comes out with the help of aknife maker. If we define "value" as "getting the most while paying the least" (or any other qualifiable/quantifiable paradigm) then the only question remaining is...."will I get a 500% increase in performance from acustom made $250.00 RK vs. a $50.00 OTC???" The answer is YES....but only from an honest,reputable, maker with impeccable integrity. How can I make such a bold statement? Well it is really very easy as the information demonstrating knife performance has already been done by many an independent testing. One of the most recognized standards is CATRA ( http://www.catra.org ) and the performance of most any alloy is available. Here is how it's done http://www.catra.org...slevel1/slt.htm. These tests are done regularly by many different people, orgs,co's, etc. So with the objective information based on physical testing and the results being unbiased (the machine can't choose sides) then the subjective has to be applied which is where the QUALIFIED knife maker now comes in to do their "Magic." As for the sharpening issue...you are again correct....up to a point.....new advancements in water stones made from ceramic, diamond, borosilicate, etc. sharpening equipment really make the job MUCH easier and faster thereby giving the advantage againto a higher quality alloy. I certainly appreciate your position on this matter. I just hope that this sheds a little more light on the subject. Thank you for taking the time to read my babblings.

Cody, Given that there are so many shapes and sizes of RKs there is really no one-size-fits-all template for them. The best way to get it done would be to make your own based on the RK you want a sheath for. A really great resource would be the tutorials here at LW.N on sheath making. Another one would be The Art of Making Leather Cases, Volume 1, by Al Stohlman available at all TLF stores, Amazon, etc. For some really advanced sheath making info there is a guy close to you in Kerrville named Paul Long who is considered to be one of the sheath making greats and he has produced DVDs on the subject. Hope this helps. Hasta,

fuyuko83, Thank you very much - I'm glad it helps and if there's anything else we can do to make your leathercrafting experience more enjoyable, call or write anytime.

Just wanted to send out a reminder that the IFoLG "Leather Fiesta" show in Albuquerque will be here soon... I just learned today that the Marriott Uptown hotel has had to extend the quantity of rooms at the $89 show rate because the blocks of rooms are getting booked! If you make reservations and don't get the show rate, give us a call so that we can request for additional rooms to be added. This is the first time we've had this show in ABQ and we are gearing up for a good time. Lots of good times ahead folks, and with this posting I invite you to join me and the IILG (the guild hosting the show this year) on October 13-16, 2011. For more information please visit [/url] or if you have any questions, you can also call or email me or Paul Brinegar (show co-chairs). Contact information: Paul Zalesak (505) 269-8563, , Paul Brinegar (505) 254-0337 email: . Getting ready for a party in ABQ........... Paul Z.

TL, It is the DMT just to the right of the Lansky 1200. http://www.shop.leatherwranglers.com/product.sc?productId=27&categoryId=12 Yes ma'am.....I have read the comments and I am very THANKFUL for them all.

Hi Texas Lady. Thank you for your comments! I am encouraged and motivated to do another video. In answer to your question, we stock both sharpening stones and can ship immediately. Here's the link to our site. http://www.leatherwranglers.com/products.html Thanks again and happy carving!

The International Federation of Leather Guilds (IFoLG) will be in Albuquerque, New Mexico from October 13-16, 2011 It's going to be a great party full of fun, learning, meeting old friends and making new ones. We have lots of exciting classes lined up and they are scheduled to begin Wednesday, October 12. A schedule of classes will be posted very soon at the IILG site: http://iilg.org/ifolg2011/index.html . If your guild is a member of IFoLG, you may enter your masterpieces in this world-wide competition. And for the first time this year we have added a Motor Cycle Gear and Accessories category. For IFoLG competition categories go to: http://iilg.org/ifolg2011/pdf/IFoLGEstablishedClasses2011.pdf . For competition entry form go to: http://iilg.org/ifolg2011/pdf/CompetitionForm.pdf . The hotel Albuquerque Marriott-Uptown has just extended the special show rate of $89 from October 9 to October 19. Call 800-334-2086 and ask for the "2011 Leather Fiesta IILG/IFoLG" group discount rate. Reservations must be made by September 16, 2011 . Make some time to explore Albuquerque - you will be pleasantly surprised!! There's lots to do and see in ABQ - ballooning, the longest tram - Sandia tram, casinos, museums, great restaurants... here are some images: http://iilg.org/ifolg2011/pdf/Albuquerque.pdf Also, check out http://www.itsatrip.org/albuquerque/default.aspx for more information about Albuquerque. For more information, please visit the hosting guild, International Internet Leathercrafters' Guild (IILG) http://iilg.org/ifolg2011/index.html