Gymnast

It is a very interesting link. I agree, that the key to understanding the strenght of these safety webbings and sewing on them is how the elongation of the materials will influence the stitching. With kernmantel ropes, the slipping between core and mantel is also a an important issue. I my case for the sewing it is not directly for high risk purposes and investigating the limits. Do you know these Guys in the practical-sailor have made a report with more detailed results presented? I will reference some other links with similar tests on sewing and knots: This is a forum thread discussing hand stitching on ropes: http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/documenting-my-hand-sewn-eye-process.24769/ I also did find some tests reported here: http://electricant.net/projects/testing/testing.htm Evans Starzinger did some test. Evans did publish several test on his (and his wifes) website, but this site is now active anymore. But the information is still to be found on the web.archive.org: https://web.archive.org/web/20160715154948/http://www.bethandevans.com:80/load.htm Some of the same test and some more discussions ot these tests to be found on this sailors forum thread: http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/154025-ropeknotsplice-load-testing/& He did also reference the study for the parachute webbing solutions - perhaps this picture is form this study:

I agree with you, Floyd. Yes I like the round point needle and dislike the cutting point. i agree, that a typical upholstery shop do not handle heavy threads. But a few do it - I know one making leather furniture, and he uses about V277 (tex 270). Do you have any references on using adhesives on webbing?

I think you are right, Hwinbermuda. Actually I already did get the Meyers Sewing Awl some years ago - see here: https://youtu.be/doSNwF86YvQ It do actually Work well on webbing, but the supply of different needles to it is very limited (3 kinds of needles from Groz-Beckert.) They have a leather point, so you need to grind off the point edges of these needles when it is to be used on fabrik, so the fabric fibres are not cut. The special thing of these needles are, that the the grove continues into the shank part of the needle - se Photo below. The speedy stitcher is able to use a large amount of common industrial sewing machine needles, with a round Ø 2mm shank. Perhaps I need one. Tejas - I have not read your link yet. But I have seen articles, that argue, that these bars of sewing on climbing webbing or heavy duty webbing are not the best stich pattern. I will be back with more. Dwight - when you use contact cement - then I assume it is for the canvas and not for the webbing.

Regarding the jerk needle - do they have more designs, that might be better for webbing? I mean no leather point and a somewhat rounded hook, so it will not catch the webbing when the hook is filled with the thread to be pulled.

Thanks for your reply, Matt I do have some D-rings attached to the webbing, that may concentrade forces on seams near them. When you add up many passes with thinner thread by a sewing machine, the layers of webbing gets harder, and I think it may be to much for my machine. The sewing machine is a somewhat modified household machine, and it will work resonable with V-92 and perhaps V-138. So I love to have a few areas covered with some heavier thread. Yes, it may be an idea to go by some leather or unholstery shop to have it done. On the other hand there is not much to be done. It may in any case by hand be done in 3 hours.

Thanks for your reply hwinbermuda. No accuracy and looks are not that important. But strength and resistance to wear is more important. I just Wonder if hand stitch and pulling the needles with pliers may be slow. So in this case the speedy stitcher with a regular point needle may do the work faster?

I have got a few projects, that include heavy webbing, and I like to use a heavyer thread, than my sewing machine can handle. What is the best way? So I consider using: 1) Saddle stich. Then I use make the hole with an awl first. However I still think it can be hard to pull the needles through, and you may penetrade a tread with the needle. 2) Use a Speedy Stitcher or Meyer Sewing Awl. In this case I need to use needles with no leather point, because they can cut the webbing. I don't think you can buy needles for the Meyer Sewing Awl without a diamon point. And then you will have to grind the point to get rit of the sharp edges of the needle. 3) Use a jerk Needle (I have seen them with more names: hook needle, Union lock needle, Mckay needle). I have got a cheep one from china: Cheep jerk needle ebay I am not that satisfied. The handle is small. The needles have leather point and the sharp edge on the hook tends to catch webbing fibres when I pull the needle out. I look forward for your help on what to do.