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ljk

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About ljk

  • Birthday 03/24/1944

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://info@make-a-patch.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet

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  1. I've been through this with a 111w155 and a 111w100 Both had the same issues. Chewed up feed dog and fluff under the hook.
  2. I just finishing working on my Singer 44 (9" version of 31-15) had same problem. There was a burr on throat plate and needle was not adjusted on the scarf. Now if I can get it under the foot it will sew it.
  3. I have a copy of one. How do you want it sent. tx Lynn
  4. That is a USMC model c or a version. The manual is available online. Was commonly used for cutting soles. Not allowed in factories for years because of inadvertent double clicking when flywheel and clutch get hot. Great hobby machine. Perfect machine for me because I make my own dies out of steel rule. Usually runs on 220 single phase one HP motor. The machine will jam if depth is set wrong, you need big monkey wrench to back off flywheel. As a parts machine $500 or less. In good working order $1000-$1500
  5. Buy a compound feed, horizontal axis machine with safety clutch. Buy sightly used or with little obvious wear. My experience with new machines has been has been slight clearance on hook. This resulting in thread jamming.
  6. I've had 2 of those, one my first upholstery machine and 30 years later picked up at a auction for a few bucks. I used on the bike circuit, was great because I could see very well what I was doing. Here's what I did. Bought a narrow Teflon foot, got a narrow feed dog to match, set tension moderately. Good machine until you can afford a 206rb.
  7. I have had 3 singer 111s in the last 55 years. The last one a $10 at a auction with a broken belt.No wear on head, had that 50s crinkle paint on the head and black lacquer on the bed. It would sew 7 layers of 3/4oz Over 1/2" lift. If you are looking hears what you need . No stitch adjust on the head by the flywheel. Only on the bed. make sure hook is sharp. Generally a sloppy 111w155 will sew just fine.
  8. I've owned a Model C, a Fipi 20 and a Schwabe. Can you sent more pictures. I may be able to help. My model C sat out in the Fl. weather for 3 years paid 80 bucks delivered. Need to keep it oiled.
  9. I have a 45k76 aka as a sack darner. I do one stitch at a time. The pressure foot is adjustable for lift. Needle down foot down. Needle up foot up. Allows 2 hand operation. Also came with table. These machines are cheap and can be very useful for holsters and knife sheaths. With needle position works very well. Paid $50 had to soak it for 6months I can post pictures, but in a hurry these posts go to sewing machine heaven quickly.
  10. I have a tool box full of used 111 parts. Many sprockets, obviously a wear item. A employee who had a very worn 111-153 I replaced belt and had to built a tensioner to take up slack. You may need new sprockets.
  11. The machine is a 280L AKA as a precursor to some JUKI machines. Horizontal axis. M bobbin, semi lube, no clutch, compound feed. Very good quality.
  12. Mobile for twenty five years. Machines went into a box. Tables stored upside-down. Patcher 30-1 went into box, used as table top with reduction drive. I've viewed a loaded machine go thru a floor of trailer.
  13. If our viewers don't know there is a slight difference in DOT style snaps and line 24 import snaps. The dome on DOT or Fastnap are more rounded than import line 24. The setter domer will work on either but can create appearance problems. For example using DOT domer on import snaps will round out the top causing marking from the inner core of the snap. I also believe you need the correct or compatible setter. I personally don't care which one uses, but DOT or Fastnap are better. Also coated snaps in painted colors will set slightly harder.
  14. I use KLEAN STRIP painters solvent. Home Depot, Ace Hardware. If you can still pour it even very thick it will dissolve. I don't see any loss of adhesion. About $10 a quart.
  15. Being a amateur shoemaker I had access to a last. Had foot surgery, slow healing I'm 80. Modify last. Soak shoe in water overnight, wipe off excess water. Wrap last in plastic wrap, apply talc, install into last, may take a few hit's with mallet. Let sit for week. The darker boot was elk I veg tanned. The other Horween horse. You can also do this with the right shoe tree
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