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I've had 2 of those, one my first upholstery machine and 30 years later picked up at a auction for a few bucks. I used on the bike circuit, was great because I could see very well what I was doing. Here's what I did. Bought a narrow Teflon foot, got a narrow feed dog to match, set tension moderately. Good machine until you can afford a 206rb.

I have had 3 singer 111s in the last 55 years. The last one a $10 at a auction with a broken belt.No wear on head, had that 50s crinkle paint on the head and black lacquer on the bed. It would sew 7 layers of 3/4oz Over 1/2" lift. If you are looking hears what you need . No stitch adjust on the head by the flywheel. Only on the bed. make sure hook is sharp. Generally a sloppy 111w155 will sew just fine.

I've owned a Model C, a Fipi 20 and a Schwabe. Can you sent more pictures. I may be able to help. My model C sat out in the Fl. weather for 3 years paid 80 bucks delivered. Need to keep it oiled.

I have a 45k76 aka as a sack darner. I do one stitch at a time. The pressure foot is adjustable for lift. Needle down foot down. Needle up foot up. Allows 2 hand operation. Also came with table. These machines are cheap and can be very useful for holsters and knife sheaths. With needle position works very well. Paid $50 had to soak it for 6months I can post pictures, but in a hurry these posts go to sewing machine heaven quickly.

I have a tool box full of used 111 parts. Many sprockets, obviously a wear item. A employee who had a very worn 111-153 I replaced belt and had to built a tensioner to take up slack. You may need new sprockets.

The machine is a 280L AKA as a precursor to some JUKI machines. Horizontal axis. M bobbin, semi lube, no clutch, compound feed. Very good quality.

Mobile for twenty five years. Machines went into a box. Tables stored upside-down. Patcher 30-1 went into box, used as table top with reduction drive. I've viewed a loaded machine go thru a floor of trailer.

If our viewers don't know there is a slight difference in DOT style snaps and line 24 import snaps. The dome on DOT or Fastnap are more rounded than import line 24. The setter domer will work on either but can create appearance problems. For example using DOT domer on import snaps will round out the top causing marking from the inner core of the snap. I also believe you need the correct or compatible setter. I personally don't care which one uses, but DOT or Fastnap are better. Also coated snaps in painted colors will set slightly harder.

I use KLEAN STRIP painters solvent. Home Depot, Ace Hardware. If you can still pour it even very thick it will dissolve. I don't see any loss of adhesion. About $10 a quart.

Being a amateur shoemaker I had access to a last. Had foot surgery, slow healing I'm 80. Modify last. Soak shoe in water overnight, wipe off excess water. Wrap last in plastic wrap, apply talc, install into last, may take a few hit's with mallet. Let sit for week. The darker boot was elk I veg tanned. The other Horween horse. You can also do this with the right shoe tree

Was just watching a new Trenton and Heath video today on YouTube. They cleaned sole with acetone and then scuffed up surface.

Had one since 1976, all the way up to 206rb5. No issues on any. However had 2 instances on 206rb5 where dealers asked me to try repair. The problem was thread jamming. The clearances on the hook where to tight. I recommend any Seiko japanese version. Look for minimum wear on paint on footbed. the maximum lifting height may need to be adjusted for leather.

First of all I've owned a 206rb since 1975 maybe owned at least 10. The 206rb-5 is Chinese and ok but does not meet the quality of the Japanese versions. I had a 206rb 5 in my leather shop and it was reliable. I am willing to look and service this machine. I'm retired and located in rural Colorado. I do this for only a donation which I give to the local senior center. I will setup in one of my tables and adjust machine. I think you need to properly pre-tension in order to keep the thread properly seated in the tension disk. Your machine may need the maximum height may need to be adjusted. The alternating pressure feet may not be equal or the alternating feet are not set for maximum lifting. The feed dog may need adjustment. It may need to be timed, and the set for proper hook to needle distance. You would have to pay shipping both ways. tx Lynn

I have limited need to hand stitch, however I'm a amateur shoemaker and I inseam my insoles and and saddle stitch my outsoles. I have noticed many Euro and Oriental leather workers use a grooved awl. If you google rasche awls you will find a awl that handstitchers might like. You insert the awl, leave in position while passing both thread thru the groove.

You have been provided great info. There is more than one type of snap. DOT and Fastsnaps have a more domed head than chinese line 24 snaps. They will work on either style tool but may disrupt the top of the domed head.