ljk

The 144 or145 series are great machines. When my 206 craped out on 7 layers I went to T-Rex my 144w103

I think we have been a little harsh about this machine. If you cutting key fobs, vest extender ends, ear rings etc. this is the machine for you. If I'm making a pair of boots that's about 15 cuts in a couple minutes for soles and heels. If adjusted properly, about 500 cuts before double clicking. If you are considering this machine use a 2" 20X40 board red or white.

Needle timing and tension release. Just because it sews in a straight line doesn't mean it will turn a corner. A little up and down on the needle may help. Also look where in the lift cycle when the thread releases, should be near the top. Your picture indicate that may be the problem.

I've been through this with a 111w155 and a 111w100 Both had the same issues. Chewed up feed dog and fluff under the hook.

I just finishing working on my Singer 44 (9" version of 31-15) had same problem. There was a burr on throat plate and needle was not adjusted on the scarf. Now if I can get it under the foot it will sew it.

I have a copy of one. How do you want it sent. tx Lynn

That is a USMC model c or a version. The manual is available online. Was commonly used for cutting soles. Not allowed in factories for years because of inadvertent double clicking when flywheel and clutch get hot. Great hobby machine. Perfect machine for me because I make my own dies out of steel rule. Usually runs on 220 single phase one HP motor. The machine will jam if depth is set wrong, you need big monkey wrench to back off flywheel. As a parts machine $500 or less. In good working order $1000-$1500

Buy a compound feed, horizontal axis machine with safety clutch. Buy sightly used or with little obvious wear. My experience with new machines has been has been slight clearance on hook. This resulting in thread jamming.

I've had 2 of those, one my first upholstery machine and 30 years later picked up at a auction for a few bucks. I used on the bike circuit, was great because I could see very well what I was doing. Here's what I did. Bought a narrow Teflon foot, got a narrow feed dog to match, set tension moderately. Good machine until you can afford a 206rb.

I have had 3 singer 111s in the last 55 years. The last one a $10 at a auction with a broken belt.No wear on head, had that 50s crinkle paint on the head and black lacquer on the bed. It would sew 7 layers of 3/4oz Over 1/2" lift. If you are looking hears what you need . No stitch adjust on the head by the flywheel. Only on the bed. make sure hook is sharp. Generally a sloppy 111w155 will sew just fine.

I've owned a Model C, a Fipi 20 and a Schwabe. Can you sent more pictures. I may be able to help. My model C sat out in the Fl. weather for 3 years paid 80 bucks delivered. Need to keep it oiled.

I have a 45k76 aka as a sack darner. I do one stitch at a time. The pressure foot is adjustable for lift. Needle down foot down. Needle up foot up. Allows 2 hand operation. Also came with table. These machines are cheap and can be very useful for holsters and knife sheaths. With needle position works very well. Paid $50 had to soak it for 6months I can post pictures, but in a hurry these posts go to sewing machine heaven quickly.

I have a tool box full of used 111 parts. Many sprockets, obviously a wear item. A employee who had a very worn 111-153 I replaced belt and had to built a tensioner to take up slack. You may need new sprockets.

The machine is a 280L AKA as a precursor to some JUKI machines. Horizontal axis. M bobbin, semi lube, no clutch, compound feed. Very good quality.

Mobile for twenty five years. Machines went into a box. Tables stored upside-down. Patcher 30-1 went into box, used as table top with reduction drive. I've viewed a loaded machine go thru a floor of trailer.