Shelly

This is a reply to the post that was removed, regarding the string riding up - I've been braiding rawhide, latigo, roo, etc, since 1976. In my opinion, rawhide, once it is tempered, (proper temper will allow you to 'see' thru your initial strip, transparent almost. Then, if it is about ready to be cut, you will know if it is too wet still, if, by pulling it thru your fingers, it leaves your fingers feeling 'wet'). This doesn't mean it's too wet to cut, necessarily, but, it will not bevel or split worth a damn, as it will need to be a bit dryer for that step. Once it has the proper feel thru most of the strip, I set up my cutter - leaving my strips in the humidifier, to keep them where they need to be. I only work with what I can get thru before the cut strings are too dry to finish them, which is usually about 3 to 6 at a time, if they are about 3/64" each. My first step is to take one of my strips out, shake it out, (these that I worked today were about 8' long, by about an inch in width. Because my strips were fairly uniform in thickness, about 1/32", I did not worry about splitting the strip down at this stage, but, rather, may knock off a bit of the flesh side later on, when I am choosing a string for a project I'm working on. First - I will shake it out, then, I will put the strip hair side down, and pull it evenly over the cylinder of the cutter, with even pressure downward, from the left to right side of the cylinder - this will do a few things - it will take the kinks out of the strip, and flatten it, in case it curled a little in the humidifier, then, it will show me where any areas are still a little too damp, as those areas will 'stick' a bit, and lastly, it will find any weak areas that want to 'stretch', and will pre-stretch that slightly, before you find it later, when cutting the strings, and then the string wants to stretch to nothing and break. Next, always cut rawhide with the hairside down, flesh side up. Set your razor blade with a slight angle forward toward the string on the cutting edge, so that it somewhat forces the string to feed against the cylinder of the cutter. You will want to have some protection on your thumbs and index fingers doing this work - On the Hansen cutter, the guide allows you to place your thumb close to the blade - you need to keep your thumb close, and the strip feeding thru your hand before it goes into the blade on the one side, and, on the side you are pulling it thru, pull downward, not straight out. Also, pull slightly away from the blade side, so, with your thumb in the proper position on the feeding side, you will also be applying a bit of downward pressure with your thumb, in conjunction with the downward pull of the other hand, so that it should effectively stop any ride up. When your strings are cut from the strip, and you are now ready to bevel - set the blade in the bevel area on cylinder so that the cutting edge of the blade is at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the fence that the string will ride against. The hairside down, it must be beveled on the hairside, either only the hairside, or, if you are making a bigger string, say for the body of a hackamore, you can bevel the hair side first, then take a bit off the flesh side, but only after the hair side is done. The style of feeding the string through for beveling is the same as for cutting. At this point, if you decide that it needs to be a bit more taken off the flesh side then it's an easy thing to split a little off of these strings, if done a bit at a time. I always keep my thumb on the top of the string, feeding through a bench splitter, to keep the string from riding up against the blade and being cut off. Also, I am keeping my string feeding through my hand in order to feel if it has twisted, and I never pull it thru 'fast'. You pull the string in a downward pull in the splitter, just as you do in the previous process on the cutter. If you have any further questions or concerns, let me know. I'll try to answer the best I can. FYI - I sold my Hansen cutter a number of years ago, because I was annoyed with the splitter on it. I chose a splitter that maintained the same adjustment and could be reset with each pass of the total number of strings I was working. This way, all strands are equal in depth when you are done with them. Hope this helps...once you are cutting at the proper temper, and with the proper technique, you will then understand why I say that you must have some protection for your thumbs and index fingers - the edges of the rawhide strings will cut your fingers up like so many paper cuts - and, if you are putting the proper amount of pressure against the string with your thumb when feeding through the blade, your thumb will look like chopped hamburger if you don't have some sort of protection on it. I have acrylic nails, which I love for braiding - the thumbnail will be toast by the time I'm done, as it will have grooves in it from the strings cutting into it, as they feed thru the blade. Rawhide is supersharp on the edges, and the strings will tear you up when they are in proper temper!

The gathering starts at noon on Friday, the auction is on Saturday, and it's over Sunday afternoon...here is a ad pasted from their facebook page. this is the info for the cowboy gathering...

Me, too!!

Hi, I have a shop at our place. We have an 80 acre training facility, a 20 stall show barn, and a big indoor arena, with the shop on the end of the indoor. The indoor is right on the side of Hwy 281, 4 miles N of MW. We are here most of the time - I will be in Denton with a booth, from the 9th to the 11th, for WGH Cowboy Gathering and Tradeshow, in Denton, TX, other than that, here about 24/7!

Hi, I'm a braider, live in Mineral Wells, TX, about 50 miles W of Ft Worth. Started braiding in 1976, added strap and chaps to the mix in the 80's, started making saddles full-time in Feb 1998. Still braiding, doing lots of saddles, repairs, chaps, personal goods, etc, etc... My husband is a professional horse trainer, specializing in reining horses, and I show in the NP reining when I have one to haul....maybe this fall or next season, have a 3 yr old that is looking good for it! Shelly MJ Liggett Saddlery & Braiding, LLC 4065 N Hwy 281 Mineral Wells, TX 76067 940-682-5657 www.liggettenterprises.com

Had a question from someone about how the button covers are put on - here are a series of pix for anyone interested. I used the strap that already comes with the buttonhole, etc - you would need to cut your buttonhole first, before stitching on the button cover. On this series, I've lined the strap with scrap kangaroo - stitched the main strap, trimmed it. Then I will stamp or carve it. Next, apply a little contact glue around the edge of the button cover, and place it where I've previously marked it in - I will usually edge and rub these prior to stitching on - easier. Anyway, you can probably get the general idea of how they work. I've got the strap finished in the last pic, with the exception of a little oil and sealer, which I will do when the whole set is finished, and do them all at the same time. Hope this helps anyone that is looking...!

The Don King Bargrounder has been SOLD!

OK Everyone! Here is the sample page - bear with me, I'm sure I could probably do this with the computer, but, this was 'fast and nasty'! I will charge $15 per pair, and will include your choice of buckle ends. Button Covers will cost $1 extra per pair. The two pull thru patterns use the simple strap, which can also be used with just a buckle end for a simple pair. They are all measured with length, widths, etc on the straps, and have a reference number or letter with each. The page shows all Chestnut Hermann Oak blank patterns, and we can send these in Russet HO as well. These can be split to the desired thickness for each customer - no charge. Price Break - $12.50 per pair, when ordering a dozen or more pair per order. No price break on button covers. Let me know if anyone is interested! Thanks for your patience and feedback, Shelly

Thanks for the compliment on the article!!

I wasn't planning to sell 'finished' straps, rather, only the blanks, so the leatherworkers here could make their own straps up for resale, with their own shop stamp. If I go to the trouble of making them up here, stamping, buckles, etc, then I'll retail them with my own shop stamp on them...I am mostly interested in marketing the 'blanks', as is, out of the clicker, unless the customer wants them split down in order to line and stitch them on the edges, as well as the button covers...they can be sold without button covers also... Shelly

Thanks to all for the feedback - I plan to click out the various strap patterns I have, with measurements on them, so everyone can see what is what. I have various patterns/sizes that will go with the button covers, as I set those up to be 'universal'. What I'm interested in mostly is what would most of you consider to be a 'fair' amount for each set of blanks? Bear in mind that I can 'customize' to a degree, as I own a 16" band knife that I can level these if you are interested in making a higher end strap that would be lined and stitched...I would probably upcharge only a buck for leveling the straps to your desired thickness. I'd like a 'range' of what you all consider a fair amount, so I can do a bit of research on my end, and come up with an appropriate amount to charge. I normally sell my basket stamped spur straps, not lined, but with the stitched button cover, and a nice stainless steel buckle, stitched and riveted in place, for $65.00 per pair. This is a 3/8" long basket, in case you are wondering, sometimes smaller, never larger than this. I can charge more for lined/stitched. Because this is my retail price, and, not knowing how everyone here may feel about what they charge for a retail price, I feel the feedback is important. Will be posting pix later - stay tuned! Shelly

Just wondering if anyone here would be interested in buying spur strap blanks that I've clicked out of my scrap leather (decent stuff) - I save my scraps for these types of things. Chestnut and Russet Hermann Oak, mostly. I can put up pix of the different sizes, styles, etc, and can sell them in 'kits' as blanks - would include a pair of spur straps, with or without button covers, and the buckle ends, with or without a stainless steel buckle, etc. I am trying to figure out what people would be willing to pay for the blanks, and see how much interest there is in this venture...we've already clicked up a big box of straps and button covers, and buckle ends...

I listed three Walt Fay veiners, and a Bill Woodruff 7/8" long beveler for sale, on Ebay, yesterday - please go check out the auctions, if you are interested in these collectible tools! Shelly Liggett

Flower center has already sold!

Hi to All - I have just posted three veiners, made by Walt Fay, a 1/4" flower center by Walt Fay, and a 7/8" long beveler made by Bill Woodruff, on Ebay, for a 7 day listing. These constitute what is left of my collectable tools - good luck to anyone that is interested in bidding! Thanks, Shelly Liggett

You have to turn the blevins buckle over - remove it, flip it, re-rivet it in. Also, depending on how long the neck is, and how it is stitched, how thick the liner is, if there is one, it can be a tough deal to get that rounded to do the wrap. You can just twist it and not wrap it, although I prefer to do a wrap after the twist. You need to soak the fender neck in hot water after flipping the buckle over - it will help to soak the neck thru and, if the fenders aren't set either, soaking the entire fender set will be beneficial to taking the set. Just doing a twist alone won't set the fenders , and, if you don't do the entire fender after the twist, it can actually hurt your ankles/shins...let me know if that helps any! Attached is a pic of a fender that has been twisted, wrapped, and set - this was done during the build of this saddle, so not 'aftermarket' - sorry, don't have any pix of any factory type saddles that I did this on, although I have done them, and as described here...

Here is a pic of the two edgers I have left - the bottom corner shows another edger, but that was sold.

I have a size 22, 7 hole, Don King bargrounder to sell. I just recently sold all of my Don King edgers, and all of the stamp tools that I'd gotten in 1996, as well as my Walt Fay tools. I did not list this bargrounder on Ebay. Don pulled this out of his pocket and handed it to me at the Sheridan Show in 2000 - I'd asked him once about getting one - he told me specifically to not show it to anyone, as it was only one of a very few that he made, and he didn't want anyone getting mad at him about me getting one, and they didn't! I got the distinct impression that I got it because I didn't badger him about it, and probably he liked me - don't really know! So, bearing in mind that my mindset right now is to be 'debt-free' as soon as possible, I'm going to offer this bargrounder for $250. I also have two edgers left that Don sent to me - these were off his personal bench as well. The trouble with these is he forgot to mark them. One is missing the collar, but doesn't affect the way it edges - I'm sure a new one can be put on, probably get one from Douglas. I would need $125 ea for these two edgers - after these three tools are sold, I am completely sold out on my DK tool collection. Anyone that knows Don's tools will recognize them for what they are - in the meantime, I'll keep them and use them, as I DO KNOW what they are!

Thanks to all who were interested in the tools I sold - what didn't sell on Ebay has sold privately, and I am thrilled that I'm a little closer to being a debt-free person!! Hope everyone enjoys the tools as much as I did! I do still have a size 22, 7 hole bargrounder, made by Don King, that I will post here shortly - I need $250 for it. Don told me he did not make very many of these, so extremely collectable...if it doesn't sell for my asking price, I will continue to enjoy using it on my belts, etc...

Condolences as well to Clint and Liz, on the loss of their great stallion, Who Whiz It...a terrible loss for them and the reining horse industry!

The Osborne 86 that I have for sale on Ebay didn't meet it's reserve - I will offer it here again, for $325 or best offer. I do accept VISA, MC, and Discover. Shipping would be figured for the buyer and that will be additional. I've owned this splitter for a long time, and had the blade professionally redone by Bob Douglas a few years ago - it only needs to be buffed now and then to maintain sharpness. I split everything from tiny rawhide string for braiding, up to 1 3/4" strap easily.

You can find all my listings under my user name - michellel8366

Hi to all - Just wanted to give an update - I have an Osborne 86 listed on Ebay to sell - I sent the blade out a few years ago to be professionally sharpened, and it's great - just takes a little buff to keep it really sharp! Also, have various stamp tools for sale that are listed, all made by Walt Fay, a basket by Bill Woodruff (I am keeping one that is almost identical to it), a liner from Hackbarth, a few thumbprints by Don Butler, etc. I am wanting to pay off a few bills, and, while I would love to keep these, I think they are the best and quickest way to get done what I need to do...the auctions are set for the next 7 days. Good luck, and happy bidding! Thanks, Shelly

Just listed a rope stamp that I got from Don King in 1996, on EBay - the listing will run for 7 days. I have about a dozen of his stamps, and, depending on how the auction goes on this one, will probably sell most of them. I am in 'pay down the debt' mode, and testing the waters to see how well some of these stamps will sell for. I also plan to list my Walt Fay stamp tools - he is gone as well, and I suspect he is very collectable also...maybe not as much so as Don is, tho... Hoping by selling these stamp tools that it will help me to get rid of some of my debt, and get me in a better place to be by the end of this year...