Denster

That is the same pump I use. The oil mist is from a slight overfill and will go away shortly. If you have not yet purchased a bag let me suggest that you invest in the poly rather than vynal. The poly lasts almost forever and works a hundred times better for molding holsters than the vynal and allows for boning the details through the bag.

With all due respect you are trying to overthink something that is very simple. A metal stiffener really isn't necessary with the double layer of leather at the mouth of the holster but it has become popular. If you must use it then something about .030 thick that can be bent to shape so you can form the leather to the gun without having the metal try to spring back straight. In the very unlikely event the mouth of the holster becomes crushed it can just be reformed.

A number of guys use the banding strip from paletizing. You can also get .030 to .040 stainless steel shim stock that will work nicely.

A quick way to determine if an edge is sharp. Look at the edge under a strong light. If you see any reflection it is not sharp.

Sorry about that although vacuum forming is a method of pressing. The kydex presses will not work well. Some folks use a book press and like them, most use a hydraulic press. The standard for rubber is the 40 durometer gum rubber about 12X12X1". Pressing only exposes the lines so that the detail can be hand boned into the holster with either vacuum or direct pressure.

Shooting Hunting Outdoor Trade show.

The PSP has a 1/4in shorter triggerguard than the P7M8.

Mike With all due respect those u tube videos are exactly how not to do it. You don't soak the leather for 5 minutes. The bag needs to be clamped to the table and you need to use a platnen inside the bag not that mesh this guy is using. Seriously do a search here on leatherworker in the holster section for vacuum to find post myself and particle have done. Another retired LE Dennis

Vacuum forming works very well for leather. Do a search in the holster section for a number of posts o n the subject.

Not dumb questions . the answers are no and no.

Big difference between the 44 Super Blackhawk and the 22 single six. Is your customer looking for a traditional western style holster or the Hollywood fantasy drop loop gunfighter style. If they want traditional I might be able to help as I have some of the Will Gormley pattern packs for traditional style western holsters.

Nice looking holsters Eric. If your customer could get his gun in the holster with a freezer strength bag on it then it isn't a problem with your holster design or fit. May be with his expectations. Also both of those designs will put tension on the weapon when worn and they do need to be worn for a few hours with the weapon in to allow a comfortable draw. You can speed this up with a spray of pure silicone oil. That is a tidbit I got from Red Nichols the reitred designer for Bianchi on another forum and it really does work.

Barges or better yet Masters cement will solve your problems.

What Bruce said. It's interesting that it doesn't seem to inhibit the absorbtion of moisture or finishes. Sure looks nice.

Steve. Thanks for the info.

Steve Where are you ordering the HO backs from?

Sounds like you only have two options. Either order blue guns to fill the order or pass.

Yes I've noted that with som,e not al,l Hermann Oak. I've found when I get a side that is tough to cut I lay out the patterns then case both the grain and the flesh side. It then cuts like normal.

Not bad at all. Nice rig. Nice wife also:thumbsup:

The natural butts from Springfield are hard jacked.

I don't believe you would have any trouble with dye bleed as it is drum dyed. That said I do apply thinned super sheen to the flesh side. It just sucks it in and I don't let it builod up to th surface so you can't tell finish was applied.

I've used some of the drum dyed horse butts from Springfield. Interesting stuff. It is not soft jacked in the general meaning of the term and I suspect a different tannage than the regular veg tan horsehide. On the ones I received the flesh side is much nicer than the grain which had cracks and stress marks all over. The flesh side is a very fine nap almost like microfiber and is really pretty. I've been using it for rough out pocket holsters and it really grabs. I did note that this stuff takes water as quick as cowhide and molds nicely although it doesn't stiffen much when dried and I had to use a different method to make it stiff. Normal soft jacked horse, which I prefer for regular holsters, will case quicker than hard jacked but still much slower than cow and I believe molds and forms better. YMMV. In that case it is only a matter of compression not tannage as soft jacked will stiffen nicely when heat dried.

Just a suggestion for you guys going to Weaver's. No matter what edge bevelers you buy they all need to be sharpened properly. Weaver's sells a edge beveler sharpener and strop for about $15 the grit and rouge will cost a few more bucks but you will never regret the purchase. I use both Tandy keen edge and Weaver's master bevelers and they all work great properly sharpened. Their sharpener makes this a piece of cake. I strop my bevelers before each use and they just glide through the leather.

Several guys use the metal banding used for palletizing. I think that is about .020 thick. It doesn't have to be heavy as it only helps to keep the mouth of the holster open for reholstering and is really only useful on IWB designs not really needed on OWB although some folks do add it.

I believe you have one of the transitional machines as I do. Some of the early ones with aluminum casting had all steel internals and lacked the tension spring on the thread take up arm. A quick fix till you get the spring installed is to just insert a piece of those craft pipe cleaners in the last thread guide ie" the tube and it will add just enough tension to keep the thread from looping like that.