RuehlLeatherWorks

http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/mis...I_Pfct_Armr.pdf Here's the link. It begins on PDF page 5 of the article. The wax hardening stuff is dated, and the author has since refined the process to include water-hardening, but the lamellar scales are all here.

I'm thinking what you are wanting to make is called Lamellar Scales. There are many, many types depending upon the region and time period you are working with. http://www.armourarchive.org/patterns/lamellar_templarbob/ This is one basic style of scale used for the SCA. There's an article out there that shows the different shapes and lacing styles of lamellar around the world but I've misplaced it. If I'm able to recover it, I'll post it here.

Here's the basic vambrace pattern I use. If you want other patterns and ideas, check out www.armorarchive.org

Does anyone have patterns for different styles of Medieval belt pouches (Purses)? I'm not looking for the drawstring bag type, but something with a flap and buckle of sorts.

I made a pair of water hardened vambraces, and in one spot, the leather is white and mottled. It looks like the 'blossoming' effect you get on the surface of leather that's not been used in a while, but it's not something that can be wiped off with a damp cloth. I tried re-applying my beeswax and neatsfoot oil compound, redying the spots, and buffing, but nothing removed this 'scorched' area. I'm thinking about antiquing stain next, but I was hoping someone else may have some advice on this first.

Some white horse tail would make those really, really bad-ass!

Looking at the photos I would first suggest that you tell said person not to rest the sword in a standing position since the exact same thing will happen to the tip again. Over all, I'd say the design is sound for what it is. I would say remake the clasp on the top so that it uses a deer-antler pin instead. It also seems like the scabbard was painted with acrylic paints, so using alcohol based leather dye may be a better looking option. Edit: Oh, and while I'm thinking of it, you can reinforce the tip a bit by inserting a piece of hardened leather between the two sides of the sheath. I tend to use wax hardened leather on my sheaths since it will allow the sword to slide easier and it will not absorb blade oil as quickly.

I'm looking to get started into Steam Punk creations. Does anyone have good sources for inspiration or theme ideas?

Amazing work!

Yeah, most of my customers want an unfinished underside too. Mostly to prevent "color bleed" when things start to get sweaty!

Food grade epoxy, eh? Is it as stiff as regular epoxy? If so, how do you go about spreading it evenly across the surface?

http://www.montanaleather.com/catalog/prod...oz-546-101.html Here's where I get mine. Great quality stuff and a good price.

I've made quite a few pair of bracers and I, too, have never put rolled edging on them. I know what you're talking about though, and for the most part, it seems like there's actually two pieces of leather; one piece of tooling leather for the main part, and then a piece of softer leather like deerhide for the underside. The deerhide would be cut about 1/2 inch larger than the main bracer, and then rolled over the outer edge and sewn into place. This process is entirely unnecessary if you properly finish the tooling leather. If you are getting into making bracers, an edge beveler and bone folder will become your best friends. Also, some beeswax cakes make for a nice, polished, durable, outer edge on the bracers. For some examples, check out www.ruehlleatherworks.deviantart.com This is my online portfolio. If you have any questions about how I did anything on there, feel free to ask.

I'm working on a detailed, tooled leather pouch that I want to post for sale, but I also want it to be as 'professional' as possible. I'd like to line it with cloth, but I'm not sure how to go about it. The leather is rather heavy (10 oz) so technically I COULD stitch it, but it would be a pain. Does anyone have some advice?

1) Shaping around a block or form is the only way to get a nice shape like that. 2) You can heat the leather in hot water, but NEVER boil it! There's a bit more to the directions if you want to know. Just send me a PM for more details. You can also brush on hot beeswax. That will seal the leather, harden it, and make it hold a shape. It just can't get to hot after it's formed or else it looses all shape and will 'leak' wax onto what ever surface it's on. So no leaving it on the car's dashboard in the summer! 3) Yeah, same principle as hardening. When making armor though, I would not recommend wax hardening, though a good coat of wax makes for a nice seal and shine. 4) Probably tooled them using a straight edge or ruler as a guide.

So I've got an awesome shoulder-bag that I'm making with a spiderweb pattern on it. It's going to be held closed with a single button and I was hoping to find a button with a spider on it. Does anyone know where I could get some?

So I found a recommended conditioner/sealant for leather recipe on here and I got to try it out today: beeswax dissolved in heated neatsfoot oil. I have to say that once you get the amounts of each to a point where you can use it without problem, this stuff is an excellent combination! Definitely worth trying.

So I have a good bit of 10 oz leather left ad I don't want to waste it all making bracers and vambraces. Are there any other project ideas that you guys can come up with?

Those are looking good, man! The only suggestion I have really, is to make the Spaulders (Shoulder pieces) bigger since they seem to flare off the shoulder more than they should. Also, if it hasn't been covered yet, leather weight is based on the Millimeter thickness of the leather. 11 oz leather would be roughly 11mm thick. If you are interested in more protective armor, there's several of us who can teach you how to make Cuirbolli. While we all differ on our techniques and what actually defines Cuirbolli, they all work equally well, especially for LARPing.

It you are looking to avoid the Rus bags, you'll probably want to avoid the Birka style bags as well since those are a derivation of the same. After you eliminate those, the on;y other pouches and bags I've seen or heard about are simply drawstring pouches tied to the belt of tucked into the tunic.

After looking at that German site, I'm wanting to try my hand at some shoes like that. Does anyone know of a source for Rubber Soles, though?

A modified 2-piece pattern from www.armorarchive.org. After making this one I had to tweak the pattern a bit since leather works a bit differently than steel. Anyway, 10 Oz hardened leather with a 6 oz 'joint'. Aluminum double cap rivets and grommets. Laced with Deerhide.

Mark 2 Fixes: Closer stitching, spaced the belt loops further apart, and turned the Button Hole vertical. New errors: the button hole was cut far larger than necessary. -_-

Whoa. They let you carry weapons at your Ren Faire???

The turnshoes turned out quite nicely!