trailrunner

Just an update, I tried a new bobbin that I had already wound with the same thread. This was the stainless bobbin that came with the machine. After switching to this bobbin the problem seems to be just about completely fixed. I had been using the extra black bobbins that I received with new machine. I believe this may be the issue. I'm pretty new to sewing machines and never thought the bobbin could be an issue Eric, I think the smaller needle also helped to solve the problem. The stitches look nicer now too. I'll have to mess around with the tension a bit more, but I think the smaller needle and the stainless colored bobbin made the stitches 90% better. Thanks again for the help Eric. -Josh

Eric, Thanks for the feedback. I tried a size 18 needle, and although it didn't solve my problem, the stitch does look noticeably nicer. As far as the check spring goes, Ive never messed with that. I'm not even sure where it is. My manual gives directions for adjusting the thread take-up spring. I'm assuming that's not what I want? thanks, -Josh

I'm using a 125/20 Groz-Beckert needle. I even tried a 140/22 needle to see if that would help but no luck

Hey everyone, I've been stumped with an issue with the tension on my Juki 1541-S for a while now. I was hoping one of the experts here would be able to help me. For context, I'm sewing mostly 15 oz waxed canvas, anywhere from 2-6 layers, using v-92 thread. Basically, the knots from each stitch are visible on the bottom of the seam. From everything I understand, this means I either need to tighten the top tension or loosen the bobbin tension, or both. The problem is that when I loosen the bobbin tension to the point that the knots are no longer visible there becomes visible loops on the bottom of the seam. If I keep the bobbin thread just tight enough that there's no loops and just tighten the top tension until the knots are no longer visible, I have to tighten it so much that the fabric actually bends as I'm sewing, as it gets pulled by the top tension being so much higher than the bottom. I'm sure there's a stupid mistake that I'm making, but I'm not sure what. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Looks beautiful. I always like red thread with brown leather. Those keepers are really nice. You don't see ones shaped exactly like that from any of the usual suppliers. Im curious why you back stitched each row again instead of just using larger thread. Does it add to the strength?

I've been looking at the 2x4 Basics workbench legs the past few days. Theyre heavy duty plastic legs for $50. The bench would end up being about 36" high. You just cut 2x4s for the length and width that you need. Looks very easy to assemble. Even has screw holes in the legs already and holes for two shelves under the top. I might splurge on a nice maple top if I go this route, that way I can just cut directly on the top and remove the top once in a while and sand it smooth again. That would also save on having to buy the cutting mats which are expensive in the large sizes. Form the reviews I've seen, I have no doubt the legs are heavy duty. I just think the plastic legs will be kind of ugly to look at. This setup might look silly to a woodworker, but I'm not one and id rather just spend $50 to know my table will not be wobbly.

That's really nice. I love bright colored bag linings. I think suede is really underused for linings like this. Did you use contact cement on the entire suede piece? Or just glue the edges and stitch?

I zoomed in and your stitching looks perfect, even on the back side. Really clean and professional. Inspirational. It's a reminder that it's the small details that make all the difference.

I've ordered from buckleguy a few times. I've only bought brass and nickel plated buckles and D rings, but I've been very happy with the quality of the hardware. Really nice stuff. As others have said, even the nickel plated stuff is solid brass underneath.

Looks awesome! Leatherworking is so much more enjoyable when you have nice tools to use.