SteveBrambley

Hi, Oh Yes! I once used a pair of carpenter's pincers, you know, the things for pulling out nails! But your tool looks like it would work a whole lot better! You can also get a special type of plier for closing them up again. Steve

Hi, Bree's idea of a servo motor is really good, and in the long run, would solve your problem. However, I only use industrial clutch motors, like yours, and I can sew very slowly with them, even down to one stitch at a time; all you need is a bit of practice. Make sure that there isn't too much 'play' in the link between the foot pedal and the motor clutch arm and you will be surprised as to how slowly you will be able to sew! Steve

Hi, It looks like you have a selection of 'piping' pressers for upholstery or maybe luggage. Most likely the machine was originally used in a factory for making something like automotive upholstery. I don't think it will be a 'five minute' job to replace the air lifter mechanism. You will have to get hold of the necessary linkage parts to reconnect to the knee lifter under the bench. Steve

Slight error here. The 'Typical TW3-441' is the 'Artrisan Toro-4000R' not the '3000'. My mistake! Here's a photo of our machine, the one I actually use. Steve

Hi, No, as far as I know, it was a 'one-man' business, at this time, and he had no employees. I remember him well, in his latter years, he always dressed immaculately in a suit, similar to the one in the photo (but more modern); over this suit he always wore a long, brown, overall coat, which, I guess, he took off for the photo. Steve

Hi, Thought you might like to see this. It's my Grandfather, photographed outside his shop about 1920, or maybe earlier. steve

Hi Dave, 3.6mm would be about 9oz, 1.5mm would be about 4oz. We don't measure leather by weight, here in the UK, any longer, which would appear to be the same for you in Aus. I'm sure there's a con. chart somewhere, but until you find it here's something to get on with. Ounces --------------- Millimetres 1oz-----------------------0.41 2oz-----------------------0.78 3oz-----------------------1.19 4oz-----------------------1.60 5oz-----------------------1.98 6oz-----------------------2.39 7oz-----------------------2.78 8oz-----------------------3.18 9oz-----------------------3.58 10oz----------------------3.96 11oz----------------------4.37 120z----------------------4.78 13oz----------------------5.17 14oz----------------------5.57 15oz----------------------5.95 18oz----------------------6.36 Steve

Yes, you're quite right, as I said previously, I mainly bind free hand anyway, and have done for nearly 40 years. I heard of double sided tape being used for binding, and did try it once just out of curiosity, and it did work. I usually only use it, as you suggested, for holding lock patches, chapes etc. in place while stitching. The most useful job for it, I find, is holding zips in place on bags, as it is tricky to use neoprene without getting it all over the part of the zip tape that is left exposed. Steve

Hi, In the UK leather industry, they always used old lithographic printing stones! Steve

Well, yes, we can get leather binding tape split to any thickness required. We usually have our leather supplier send a roll, of whichever colour we need, directly to the people who then cut it into the required width and split it down to 1.0mm. It is then joined together into approx. 50m reels, ready for use. I could split it myself, using our skiving machine, but doing it this way saves a lot of time. Also, they make a very good job when they join it all together, you would find it quite difficult to detect the joins! Steve

Hi Ed, Have you ever tried Double Sided Tape? I have heard that some use it for holding binding in place while stitching, though I would think it would only help for long, straight sections and very shallow curves. All the binding I use is 1.0mm thick, any thicker and I find it a bit tight round some sharp corners. Also, I find that it is better to be on the firm side, as softer bindings are more difficult to control, and tend to get squeezed off the edge. Steve

Hi Ed, To reply to both your questions. First, no, I don't anything other than a simple, steel, edge guide. This I position depending on how wide the binding tape is, that I am using at the time (I usually use 1"), this helps prevent the tape slipping sideways. The only other thing is that I use the edge of the inside presser foot as a guide for the inside edge of the tape; it's just practice really, I've been doing it an awfully long time! Although I do use a folder for some simple, long straight items, I find it easier to just use my fingers to guide the leather tape through the machine, particularly around tricky inside curves. Second, you can find the Needlebar gallery at: www.needlebar.org You don't need to become a member to view their picture gallery, but you do if you wish to read or join in the forums. Steve

Hi Karl, As you say, these things were built to last, and they are still much sought after in the harness and saddlery trade. I should think that an original stand and flywheel would be as rare as Rocking Horse Dung!! However, I do know a guy in Shropshire, UK, who may be able to help. He is called David Flint, and you should be able to contact him at: 01948 780593. He is a bit illusive, but if you leave a message, hopefully, he'll get back to you. Steve

Congratulations! A really nice looking bag. My late father used to specialise in making brief cases and I'm sure he would have liked yours a lot. I have made the odd brief case myself, in the past, so I can appreciate the work you must have put into making it! Steve

Yes, you're quite right! 'Chain Stitch' machines do have only one thread. Because your machine is a needle and awl, I assumed that, like all N&A machines that I've had anything to do with, it was also of this type. This is most interesting, I have heard of 'lock stitch' N&A machines (Campbell, Landis etc.), but I have never seen one, and could never figure out how they worked! Steve

Ah! That sounds as if it's a 'Needle and Awl' chain stitch machine, like our 3 row 'Puritan'; they once used 'N&A' chain stitch machines a lot in the luggage manufacturing industry. You have my admiration for being able to rebuild machines like that, I wouldn't know where to start! It's a shame about the strap cutter, they're really good, solid machines and will last a life time; we've had ours for nearly 40 years! Steve

Thank you very much. The leather is described by our suppliers as 'Saddle Shoulder', I'm pretty sure it is bark tanned, as it gives off a good 'leathery' smell that you don't get with mineral tanning. The light tan leather seems to have been 'pigment' dyed, as the colour doesn't penetrate right through, and the cut edges are 'natural', however, the burgundy leather seems to have been 'drum' dyed, as the colour does go right through; why this should be I don't know. I used two machines to assemble the cartridge bags. All the edge binding was done, by hand, with a 'Typical TW3-441', which you are probably more familar as the 'Artisan 3000'. For the actual closing I use an 'Adler 105-64', as this is fitted with a much smaller presser foot, which makes the operation much easier. Oh yes, I almost forgot, all the flat work, the straps and chapes etc. were done using an 'Adler 204-64' flat bed machine. Steve

Thanks Dave, what an incredible looking machine! I see what you mean about it looking like a shoe sole stitcher! Does it use a curved needle, by any chance? Our late father always wanted a corner stitcher, back in the 1960s, when he was making bespoke briefcases etc., but he was never able to get one. He said to me then, that the corner stitchers used a curved needle, in a 'swinging' action, so I was supprised, years later, when we managed to get hold of our first Singer corner stitcher, it had a normal straight needle! Maybe, father had heared about the 'Pederson' machine, rather than the 'Singer'. It looks like you have a great selection of machines, but I think that your 'skiver' could do with a good going over with an oily rag!! What make is it? Ours is a 'Muller & Kurth' from Germany. Steve

Hi Dave, I find this very interesting, I have never heared of a 'Pederson' before, where were they made? Very few people in the UK have ever heard of, let alone seen a 'Singer' corner stitcher, even our sewing machine mechanic had never seen one in 30 years in the business! Therefore, to find out there are other types about is very suprising to me; any chance of a photo? Here is the link to the needlebar: www.needlebar.org/cm/displayimage.php?album=243&pos=19 Steve

Hi Art, rdb, Thank you for your kind words, I really find them encouraging. The belt is not that difficult, just a bit tricky to get the small pockets regular in size, and parallel with one another. It will be my pleasure to pass on any constructional techniques to anybody who would like them. Again, many thanks. Steve

Hi, Yes there are, the 'Directron SC' series come to mind. These are computer controlled sewing machines that allow any unskilled person to produce even the heaviest of leathergoods, however, they reduce the worker to no more than a 'machine minder'. I'm sure that you could tag onto Ray's visit, though I don't know when this will be. Steve

Hi Davy, Yes, I used a Singer 45Ksv100 corner stitcher for the 'box shaped bag' (Rifle Magazine). Although they are rare machines these days, we actually have three of them, one can be seen in one of the photos of our workshop, I posted the other day; there are some better, more detailed photos of it, and one of our others, on the Needlebar.org website. I have been wondering whether anybody else uses these machines? I have heard rumours of two, possibly three, other people in the UK using them, but I don't know who. I would really like to hear from anyone else that uses them. Steve

Hi, The two items I posted earlier are not the type of thing I do everyday, so I thought I'd better show some of my more regular work! Here are a couple of heavy (3.5/4mm) traditional cartridge bags, a 12 gauge cartridge belt and a gunslip.

Hi, Thank you, no problem, any time. Steve

Hi, Well, almost a machine for everything, maybe one day, trouble is we're running out of space! No, we don't dye our own leather, there's no need in our type of work. I don't know about an apprentice, but you are quite welcome to come along and have a closer look, if you wish. Steve