SteveBrambley

Hi Ed, No, I don't use any special attachments other then a simple edge guide. I use my fingers instead of a folder and feed the leather tape through, keeping it as equal as possible both sides, there is a bit more to it than that, but it's rather difficult to describe, I would have to demonstrate. It's just practice, really, but I do find it more accurate than a folder/binder attachment, as some of these can be troublesome at times, particularly on curves. The only efficient edge binding setup is a machine fitted with a synchro binder and a right angled folder, however, these can also be problematical, on occasions, with leather. That's why hands are best! Oh, and Ray, I'm pretty certain that the Highlead, Artisan and our Typical are all made in the same factory! Look forward to hearing from you soon re clicking! Steve

Hi Ray, I was beginning to wonder which machine you were getting, I can now see that it's pretty much the same type as I have here, only with a different badge! I'm pretty certain that you won't be disappointed with the performance, I can do pretty well most things with this one! Next time you come down here, I'll show you how to bind with it! I don't think there's much point in me naming all the machines we've got here, I don't think I'd be able to remember them all! Steve

Thanks for showing that, Marlon. I think that all the superlatives have now been used up! So I can only agree with everybody, and say, that is a highly proficient piece of work! Steve

Hi Troy, Here are some pics of the 'right angled' type folder, that I mentioned. Normally, you would send a sample of the binding that you wish to use to the folder maker, along with the details of your machine, and they will make one up to the correct specifications. I use a 1mm thick, leather binding tape, which we have cut specially for us. You can use a slightly thinner one, but don't try it too much thicker. Also, the leather must not be too soft if you are using a folder attachment, as it tends to get squeezed around and can come off either at the front or at the back. For a beginner, or some one who does binding infrequently, the folder and a machine fitted with a 'Synchro-Binder' is invaluable. However, if you intend to do a lot, you will find it helpful to teach yourself hand binding, using just your fingers and a simple edge guide. This may take a bit of practice, but you will find it well worth it in the long run, as I find that often, if you are binding a softer leather, the folder will tend to distort the work by holding the tape too tightly. This does not seem to be a problem with heavier, harder leathers. I hope this helps. Steve

Many thanks Ray, However, I didn't actually use the Seiko machine for these bags, as the leather is far too heavy for it. I in fact used the 'Typical' TW3-441, which is essentially the same machine as the 'Artisan' Toro 4000. I didn't use any binding aid other than an edge guide and my fingers for these bags. Thanks to you also Troy, the Seiko machine (Seiko LSC-8BV) is a lot lighter, though it can handle fairly heavy leathers, up to about 5 or 6oz. It is fitted with a 'Synchro Binder' device which keeps the folder close to the presser feet and the needle at all times, which makes applying leather edge binding to inside and outside curves very easy. Oh yes, I should point out that the folder must be the 'right angled' type, as the ordinary straight ones are not so good. Here's a couple of photos (the folder is attached to the two vertical posts): This is the machine that I used to edge bind the bags: Steve

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments! Steve

Hi, Here's a couple of small cartridge Bags that I just finished today. They are made from my usual veg tanned, 3-3.5mm (8-9oz) 'saddle shoulder' (cow hide) and are lined in brown pig-skin suede. The piping (welting?) is 1mm cow-hide with a 2mm PVC core. Steve

Not a carver myself (maybe one day) but I do love this stuff, excellent! Steve

Yes indeed, that's really beautiful! Steve

Hi Ray, Yes, I must agree, that is some really fine work. We used to buy in and sell this type of stool back in the 1960s, but they were rubbish compared to yours! Nice to see some more of your work. Steve

Nice work, Karl! Steve

That is very nice indeed! I particularly like the buckle/tucktight combination, I never thought of doing that! Steve

That's some very fine work, excellent! Steve

Your English better than my Chinese!

Once you get proficient in working with this machine, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it! Steve

Thank you very much! I lined the main part with a simulated fleece material which has 10mm of foam bonded to the back. The closure flap is lined with a pig suede. Unfortunately the case has now gone off to the customer, however, here is a photo of a similar case I made some time ago, to show you the general idea. With this case, the zip goes right across under the flap,however, the case in the earlier pics had the zip stop short of the flap, as that is how the guy wanted it. Steve Terry, Rusty, Ray, many thanks for your kind words! Steve

Hi, The old Singer Class 17 is one type of light cylinder machine that was available with an attachable table. There were a number of different versions for portfolios, pocket books, shoes and boots. They were fairly common, we have one that we used for small leather goods, a class 17-16, I expect that you could find one, if you hunted about a bit. These are a couple of photos of ours: Steve

Hi, The earlier Adler 105 and 104 machines have independent adjustment for the forward and reverse stitching and, with a bit of patient 'fiddling', can be made to line-up. Unfortunately, the later 205 and 204s don't, and are therefore a bit of a pain trying to make a neat back-tack. Steve

That's good, nice and simple! Steve

The Magnificent Seven. The Seven Samurai. Steve

Many thanks for all your kind comments! Steve

A very handsome belt! Steve

Yes indeed! Lovely! Steve

Very nice, very neat! Steve

Thank you both very much! Steve