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SteveBrambley

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Everything posted by SteveBrambley

  1. Yes, I agree, very fine work. Steve
  2. Very good, I like it a lot. Steve
  3. Yes, that is quite likely. Steve
  4. Hi, Grinding off the right side of the presser foot might well help with your problem, however, it will reduce the efficiency of the feed as the right half of the feed dog will cease to have much effect. This, in it's self, may not matter as the remaining half is probably sufficient. The only other thing I should mention is that this class of machine was actually intended for cloth, quilting bed covers and binding, so, I don't know how well it will stitch leathers. Steve
  5. Art, Ryan, Many, many, thanks to you both, that really does help explain a lot! China, Funny thing is, I was told that Typical made machines for Mitsubishi. No idea if it's true though! Steve
  6. Sounds like your top tension needs increasing a bit. Try giving the tensioner finger nut a half turn or so, clockwise, until the 'knot' disappears. If it pops up on top, you've gone too far! Steve
  7. Hi Ray, Thank you for your remarks concerning my 'guru' status, but, I have never considered myself any kind of 'expert', it's just that I've been around sewing machines for over forty years, and used most of the well known marks, from time to time, so I think that I may have 'picked up' a bit of knowledge. I must admit that I have not, personally, ever tried a Highlead, my comments are entirely based on info, pictures etc. that I have gathered from various sources on the net. Therefore, if you have 'Road Tested' different machines, and have found the 'build quality' better with the Highlead than others, I must bow down to your greater practical experience with diverse machines. I do know exactly what you mean by 'feel', I use several different types of sewing machine every day, and each one has its own 'feel'. Maybe Highlead do have their machines assembled with greater care, I don't know, so I wouldn't like to say. Also, you can have two identical machines, from the same factory and they can 'feel' and behave completely differently, depending on how they have been treated by former users. Also, it is not unknown to get 'rogue' machines when buying new. The problem is, a well known brand name is no guarantee of real quality. For example, we sell a very cheap, guncover (Which we have made for us in china, as it happens), to a very well known London gunmaker. They are selling this for over twice the price as other shops, we asked them how they manage to do this, their reply was, "Our customers wouldn't expect to pay any less!". It appears some companies think that if they have a well established 'name' they can charge a premium. I notice that Artisan charge about $1000 more for their 'P' model than they do for their 'R' model; maybe they have them put together more carefully as well! Ed, I have considered the 'higher grade steels' posibility myself, however, all the companies that deal in the machines that I have previously mentioned, are all highly reputable, and wouldn't risk their good names by selling a product with inferior components, or, at least, I wouldn't have thought so! Steve
  8. Hi all, A short while ago, I suggested that the Highlead GA2688 and the Typical TW3-441 are virtually identical machines. Art, quite rightly, pointed out that they are not identical. However, I have now done a bit more research, as I still considered these machines, if not identical, to be very closely related. It appears that there are two popular groups of heavy, leather stitchers currently on the market; for the sake of argument, let's call them group 'P' and group 'R'. The Highlead GA2688 falls into group 'P'; another machine in this group is the Artisan Toro 4000P. There may well be other machines available, in this group, but I have, so far, not found any. The Typical TW3-441, on the other hand, falls into group 'R', examples of this, more common, group are: the Artisan Toro 4000R, the Cobra Class 4, the Consew 756R and the Sieck TK 441. The only obvious difference between these two groups appears to be that group 'P' has its bobbin winder on top, where as group 'R' has it on the front. Also, the main casting of group 'P' does look a little heavier than group 'R'. Other than that, these two machine groups are mechanically similar (I won't say 'identical', as this has already got me into trouble!) in every way that matters. I base this observation on Artisan's own instruction and spare parts manual. This excellent document covers both the Toro 4000P and the Toro 4000R (As well as the 3000). In this, there is only one parts list for both the 4000P and the 4000R models; the only difference in the instructions, between the two, is how to wind the bobbin thread. Even the specifications are the same! Now, forgive me if I am being naive, or have missed something, but to me, two machines, that use identical parts (And they are identical this time!) are, essentially, the SAME machine! Where does this leave the Typical TW3-441 in relation to the Highlead? Well, I have compared the spare parts manual for the Typical with that of the Artisan and the parts are again identical! So, putting all this together, if the Highlead GA2688 and the Artisan Toro 4000P are basically the same machine, and the Toro 4000P and the Toro 4000R are, internally, identical, then logically the Highlead and the Typical must also be, internally, identical. If all the above machines, in both groups, are so closely related, it stands to reason that they must have a common designer, if not a common manufacturer. Knowing the Chinese, it seems very likely that the use of multiple factories may be involved here. This is not necessarily a bad thing; after all, the original Singer Company did this all the time! Another likelihood is that the components are manufactured in many different locations and then brought together for final assembly. Art tells me that a company called 'Zhigiang' manufactures the Typical; this may well be the case (multiple factories and all that!). However, the 'Typical Sewing Machine Wanping Machinary Co Ltd' claim that they are the manufacturers as well. Check out their website at: http://www.typicalwpchina.com/en/profile.htm At the end of the day, if anyone is looking for a heavy, leather stitcher, it seems to me that it doesn't matter one iota which of the above machines are chosen, as they are all, essentially, the same, only the badge and the paint job are different. It all boils down to which seller offers the best deal and/or after sales service. Steve
  9. Hi Ray, I think that the packet I sent to you, with the needles in, had the correct system details printed on the front. Steve
  10. That is extremely well finished, very nice! Steve
  11. Absolutely marvelous, as usual! Steve
  12. Hi, I used our 17-16 for sewing wallets, key cases, comb cases, coin purses and other small leather items in 3-4oz leathers. I never used anything thicker than about #69 thread, but it would probably take up to around a #138, or so, but I'm really only guessing, others may have a better idea. I would have thought #207 was asking a bit much of what is a fairly light weight machine, but again, others may disagree. Steve
  13. Thanks Art. Cunning people these Chinese! Just thought I should add that, several years ago, when we were in desperate need of a heavy duty, cylinder machine, I wanted to get hold of a new Seiko CH-8V. However, at the time, there were none in the country and delivery of the next batch was 3 months! So, we were offered the 'Typical' as an alternative, the added advantage being it was considerably cheaper. I was not entirely convinced, but we were in great need and we could have one within a few weeks; that's how I ended up using the Typical. I have found it remarkably reliable, so far, even when the check spring broke, after considerable use, it still stitched faultlessly! However, even after saying all that, I still would have preferred the Seiko! Steve
  14. Thanks Torrbuidhe, Art, I thought there must be something going on. I'm afraid my electrical knowledge leaves a lot to be desired. Steve
  15. Most of the clutch motors I use here run at 1425rpm and are 1/2 HP. They are all 240V AC single phase, I don't know if that makes any difference? Steve
  16. Hi Henry, No, it's not a sewing machine it's an 'Epoch' automatic, power operated, eyelet setting machine, made by the British United Shoe Machinery Company. It was designed to punch a hole and then set the eyelet in a single operation, which it would continue to do, as long as the control pedal is held down! This example is set up with a 'blind' punch as the holes are, generally, cut out during the 'clicking' operation. I have posted pictures of this machine previously, however, here are some more for you. Steve
  17. Thanks for that, I have obviously been mis-informed. Steve
  18. The only other machines available in the UK, that I know of, other than the Highlead GA2688-1, are the Typical TW3-441 (which is the machine I use, and is virtually identical to the Highlead) the Adler/Durkopp 205-370 and the SEIKO CH-8B. You may be able to find one of these machines used or recond, but you will certainly have to hunt about quite a bit. The Highlead and the Typical are both relatively cheap to buy new and therefore should be cheaper used, however, the Adler and the Seiko are quite expensive to buy new, and so tend to fetch higher prices used. The latest Adler/Durkopp are now made in China, and I believe David Flint is an agent for them. All three machines are shown in the photos below. Steve
  19. What, given up on the 'Pilot' already Karl? I guess the needles didn't help then? Steve
  20. Nice solid and simple design, should last quite a while! I think the rivets you are using are what are known as 'Star' rivets, here in the UK. They were often used both with and without a washer on the back. I don't think that your rivet setting machine can be quite as old as you think, I would guess closer to late 19th early 20th century, or possibly more recent still. you can use these machines to set 'bifurcated' rivets as well as 'Star' rivets. I use two very similar machines to yours, (The machines on the extreme right and the left centre, in the photo below) but only with the 'bifurcated' type, normally, with a special 'cap' on the back. These, like the 'Star' rivets, are self-piercing, that is, you don't need to punch a hole first. Steve
  21. Thanks Ray, sorry I only just found this post! Steve
  22. Congratulations, they look really well put together! I particularly like your stitching, all by hand I presume? Steve
  23. Hi Ray, Yes, I was right, I've just checked and taken this pic! The stands that I have here, are a lot more heavily built than yours, and more suitable for the longer arm machines. If you like, you can exchange the one I have our 45K25 fitted to, with your bench, the 45K has a much shorter arm and your lighter bench would be OK. Steve
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