SteveBrambley

Hi Ray, The stand/bench I am using, with our machine, is perfectly stable, I have had no problems with it at all. Although it is very similar to yours, the bar/plate to which the pedals are mounted is longer and more robust, in fact I think that there are actually two, parallel bars. I think this may be your problem. Steve

Hi, The manual I have is actually for the later 205-64/204-64, however, they are pretty much the same machine with a few minor changes (bobbin size, position of presser foot lifter), so, it should be of some help to you. I'll email it along. Steve

What type of adhesive is Barge? Neoprene? PVA? Other? Can't say that I have ever heard of it. Is it available in the UK? Steve

Hi, That is really excellent, I must congratulate you, I certainly would never attempt to pipe a bag using a 29K! Steve

OK Ray, I'll get a few needles off to you tomorrow (Wednesday). I think all our needles come from Bogods, but I would guess College are as good as any. Steve

Hi Ray, I always use a 200 (25) size needle, or even 180 (24) with Tkt 13 thread. I find using a needle much larger than that makes the thread look like spaghetti down a man hole! Also, I always use LR point needles, as I think these give the nicest looking stitch. If you like, I can send you a couple of different size needles for you to try. Steve

I also use several different size sets of letter stamps for leather, but I never use a mallet with them. Instead I use a small, hand press (Label Punch), with this I can control the pressure exactly, and so avoid the border marks. Steve

Very Nice! Steve

Hi Ray, Sorry, I only just spotted this thread. I must agree 100% with everything that has been said so far. I am never absolutely satisfied with anything I make, I always feel that there is some way the thing could have been improved. Trouble is, I have to balance quality of finish with the time it takes to actually produce each item. Because, if I took as long as I would have liked, to achieve the finish I would have preferred, it would take far too long, and the price we would have to charge would knock us out of our market. It seems that nobody (well, hardly anybody) is prepared to pay for real quality these days. If I could spend a couple of days on a single item and be able to charge three or four times as much, that would be great, however, in the real world price seems to be all, at least in my experience. The main problem is that practicaly all our products go through at least two other hands before it reaches the end user, we obviously can charge a lot more by selling direct to 'Joe Public'. Trying to compete with our far eastern friends doesn't help either! Your rivet question. I have always, mainly, used brass plated, steel bifurcated rivets and caps, set with a machine, like the two you saw when you came down earlier. They are strong, look reasonable and they are quick to fix in place, unfortunately, they seem unobtainable in solid brass. But then again, if they were solid brass, they would probably be prohibitively expensive! Steve

A Singer 45K25 with the roller presser foot might do the job, as you can get pretty close to the edge with one. Steve

That is really very good! Did you machine stitch or hand stitch? Steve

Hi Art, I agree with you completely on what you are saying about the 31-15/31K15, they were indeed the, almost, archetypal tailoring machine and would once have been used in most high street tailors and dressmakers shops. However, they were also quite popular with shoe repairers for light leather work (at least here in the UK anyway!) and were often found along side the ubiquitous Singer 29K 'patcher'. Back in the 1960s my father only used three different machines, a Singer 45K56 for very heavy work, a 29K for most other things and the 31K15 for light (lite?) leather repair work. As I said previously, my mother used this same 31 for making leather coats and jackets (arguabley, I suppose, this could be classed as tailoring!), as well as the flat work on ladies bags before closing them with the 29K. Also, as you say, they are pretty useless at passing over 'lumps', but could manage, just about, if you lifted the presser foot slightly just as the 'lump' in the seam was reached. When we started making larger bags, we switched over to using the Singer 31K47, which, as I'm sure you know, is also a drop feed machine, but has the added advantage of 'alternating' presser feet, which helped a lot with 'lumps' and smooth surfaces, although they weren't as good as a true 'walking foot' machine. Steve

I would agree with John on that! Steve

Yes indeed, you are quite correct, the 31-15 and 31K15 are not Needle Feed, they are simple Drop Feed. I used one, many years ago, for making small leather goods - wallets, coin purses, key cases and so forth. Back then we only used linen threads, about the equivalent of a 69 or thinner, with a size 100 needle. However, my late mother also used one to make leather coats and jackets, using a larger needle (120 I think) and thicker thread, so, these machines are capable of some relatively heavy work! Steve

Sorry about that Greg, although I downloaded that manual ages ago, I didn't really take a good look at it until after I had posted the link for you, I then spotted the "Except for" line. I guess who ever set up the manuals on the Singer site didn't either! Steve

Many thanks, Just wondered! Steve

You can find a manual for the Singer 17 classes here: http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/17...23_25_31_33.pdf Steve

Hi John, That is a truly spectacular case! I am in complete awe of your teams work! Steve

Hi Ray, Those are really well made, I like them a lot! But, excuse my ignorance, who would wear something of that type. Steve

If you don't use reverse with a leather point needle, how do you lock off your seams? I have been using reverse for years, and very rarely had any problems with the thread being cut. Steve

That is rather nice! I doubt if you will have any trouble selling that one! Steve

Another fantastic job, Rusty, really beautiful! Steve

Hi, I'm not familiar with a Singer 9410, do you mean a 97-10? Steve

Hi, Guide sent via email, you should have it by now. If not, let me know and I'll try again! Steve

Hi, I use both the Adler 105-64 and the 204-64, which is essentially the same machine, but flat bed. I have a user manual that covers both and I can email you a copy, if you wish. Steve