Wykoni

Completed this notebook a few days ago, see what u think. IMG_0959.mov

Thank you, I really appreciate your impute. Great advice.

Really depends on who you’re working with. There are people out there who will pay premium money but only if they get premium quality. If I can improve the product’s looks with a machine that I am willing to buy, why not. My experience in this thing we do is that the little things matter. Enough little things can make a big difference in appearance

Thank you for your impute but really all I am asking is if someone has this machine send a picture my way. I know the alternatives, but really isn’t what I am looking for. Thank you anyway.

I am going to buy another machine the two in contention are the Juki 1541 and the Cobra class 18. Your right similar machines. The cobra has a reducer on it that allows a very slow stitch. The Juki does not. The Juki has a beautiful back side stitch, however, I do not know about the class 18. So this is why I asked. I want a machine that front and back stitch looks good. Why, because I may make a notebook, the person opens the notebook and sees both sides. I want both sides to look nice. I have a cobra class 4 and with this machine there is a notable difference in the two stitches. I hope I have made it clear.

Newest creation, hope you enjoy IMG_0891.mov

I screwed up on my last post, should be a cobra 18. If anyone has one can you show me the back side stitch. Looking for something that has an attractive front and back stitch.

One other thing you may want to consider when hand stitching. The punch size should be no more than the size of two widths of thread. The logic behind this is the holes look tighter and more like machine sewed. This thing we do is all about aesthetically pleasing, the better it looks the better it sells. Just fyi….the buff looks good so that you got nailed and the fit looks good.

Take a look at an oak leaf. You have of course the main vein, then you have others that run down to the tips of the leaves, they are pronounced but not as wide as the main vein, then finally if you look closer you have very fine veins running off the veins that go to the tip. These are almost invisible but they do give the leaf a little shape. Now have fun with it.

I have used this product and I think it works well as a resist and finish. It is an acrylic so there is no fumes like other products. Drying time might take a bit longer. I have used it both as a resist prior to antiquing and as a final finish. At this point it’s “all good”

I can hand sew it or carve it but this sewing machine stuff is totally alien to me, your much knowledgeable about it.

Anyone got Steve’s phone number at the leather machine company in California. Thanks in advance.

Thanks, hope your doing well, now just pulling what little hair out I have in adjusting this thing lol

Will order some, let me ask you a question, I will be making holsters, the doubled thickness will be about 16 oz will the 207 be ok for that?

I am using 207 thread. I do have some 277, the two PCs of leather are about 8oz together.

Just bought a new class 4 sewing machine and of course I am having issues. The problem is stitching in the back, the darker thread. The front seems to be ok, lighter thread. Maybe I can get some help. As you can see, the leather looks a little puckering up from stitch. Any help would be appreciated.

Recently purchase a cobra class 4, using 207 thread I am having a problem on front vs back. Front is acceptable(light thread) but back is not(dark thread). Any help would be appreciated.

Nice work chuck,

It’s actually molded from the back so locks in very well.

New holster for my cz

Very nice

Yes

A friend needed a small holster when he goes to meetings, etc. Only criteria it had to be black.

Very nice

Thanks all, tried 50/50 but felt it was too firm so added more oil turning it into a paste. I preferred it that way.