Mocivnik

Will do and report in some time (not all the time in the workshop, where I usually dye leather). Hmm..I never considered it using before dying as I had NFO in my mind as it's finish, not a prep. liquid. But certanly will make some tests in the future, as will test this aswell. Haven't had problems with customers for stiff belts, but I don't prefer it being so stiff, it nearly stands up alone (if holding in 1 hand). Will keep in my mind. I also use resolene vs. water 1:1 ratio (often, not always, depends if I'm not lazy enough to mix it :D ). But there's this great leatherworker I've admired, also on this forum (I think), Road Agent leather. In video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-QAUSqSrRs), he is using Pro dye, NFO and Fiebing's PRO RESIST (which I assume, is simmilar finish to resolene). And here's the idea I got, that I can use NFO with PRO DYE at first. No, but will check! Thank you. I don't have California sun, but might consider drying it as such. I got Fiebings Leather Balm With Atom Wax, but didn't gave it a chance yet. Will do soon, as only thing at Resolene I dont like most, is it's gloss. I'd prefer more matt finish.

I use 100% of Fiebings products for dying, staining and finishing leather, I don't use any other - although it's more expensive than others that I've tried, but it's the only one I'm satisfied with so far. This is not a commercial for Fiebing's, I'm just explaining myself. I use Fiebing's Pro Dye to dye the leatherwork (then applying acrylic resolene with airbrush. I dip-dye belts and for everything else I use airbrush. But after dying (mostly after dip-dying) belts are very stiff - so I would consider using Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil and then Resolene - would it work? Would it even be reasonable to use Resolene after Neatsfoot oil? And another question: After tooling leather and dying it with Pro Dye - is okay to use Antique Finish? And after that, I would use Neatsfoot oil and then Resolene for the finish - would it work or am I using too much preparations for leather? Thanks for any help!

Thank you! I've tried to use GPT but I got approximations such as "tandy" and "weaver", which is quite unaccurate. Also, I dont remember buying on any of these 2 sites, so again, no clue where I got them :D btu have them in silver and brass version. @FrankHester Yes, it surely does look amazing tho! Want to buy more tho

Hey everyone, I've made this belt probably around 5-6 years ago, but I completely forgot, where I got these buckle packs from - buckle, the ring and the strap end. On the back side it's written MADE IN SPAIN and i also have it in vintage brass color, but can't figure it out, where I got it from. The dimension is metric (40mm) and not imperial. Tandy doesn't have it on site nor I have found it in bills from Tandy I've got. LePrevo from UK neither has them, so it's gotta be someone else selling them.

I've tried using ultrasonic cleaner and 1dl ~3.3oz. isopropanol for dismantled airbrush gun, but no major success was reached that day. 2 times for 30 minutes and didn't do much. Also used ethyl acetate(solvent, used as base for Fiebings dyes) to disolve, but wasnt very successful. I've also dipped my previous airbrush into acetone, and I think it didn't do much good except destroy o-rings. I'd really love to dismantle the whole gun to every last bit part and dip into kerosine or something really strong, use new o-rings and assemble back. Then should be as good as new. @DoogMeister It never occured me, that resolene is water based. And it makes so much sense now, as going "isopropanol - brown dye - isopropanol - black dye - isopropanol - resolene - isopropanol" never actually cleans resolene out, since it's water based not alcohol. Will do soon now! Thanks to both for these instructions! @Northmount Sorry and thank you.

So I've been using Nasvidal's airbrush to dye my leather, but I'm stepping into a huge problem, and that's cleaning. Whenever I spray paint leather, this is how I work and clean: -isopropanol - brown dye - isopropanol - black dye - isopropanol - resolene - isopropanol. I always go from lightest to the darkest (even because of my designs) so I don't get any small blobs of previous dye thrown out, although I get sometimes a black mark while using resolene on finishing leather. Now I'm getting a huge huge problem with (mostly black) Fiebing's pro dye, since I cannot get it out of airbrush 100%. I've been changing airbrush guns every 6 months, as they are clogged and not even acetone can clean them up. Anyone knows how to properly airbrush leather and having an easy way of 100% cleaning it later on? Maybe using Fiebings dye reducer or that's not needed?

Has anyone occured the problem, that after several years of use their own sewing machine, it's come time that "all them screws needs to be tightened"? I've been using mine for 6 years although I've bought it second hand. It sews "okay", but I'd prefer to handle it over to a guy, who knows how to set it properly to work like new again. Shipping to US and back is unreasonably expensive so I'd prefer to fix mine and not just buy new (for the price of two-way shipping).

Ressurecting an old post, but..Would this one fit to a Taurus 669 aswell?

So I got an online order for a Taurus 669 holster, but I do not have bluegun for it. Has anyone made a holster for it already and has a pattern saved? Would be much appriciated tho. The type of holster doesnt really matter, as I will edit it to my needs anyway. Something like that would be perfect, as I will mod it anyhow. I just need the around part and a strap to hold it in place, that's all. No need for that screw, will not be applied.

I've (ab)used some tools in my leatherworking "career" in past ~5 years, and I'm quite tired of buying bad tools, so I'd like to purchase new punch set (2-6mm, but more = better). Anyone can recommend a European seller, that sells proper tools? I've used something as on photo below, but it's pain in the butt to sharpen them. Also, I'd need an edge beveler, that would allow me to do edges as such. I got IvanLeather edge bevelers (1, 2, 3) but they take off too much of material to make such an edge.

Not sure if correct, but surely looks very very simmilar. Also, super expensive (found brass version for 60USD /3pcs.). Any other that kind of stamps I can find, preferably from standard palette? These are from Sergey Neskromny, but I'd rather stick to Craftool stamps.

What's this stamp number, that's been for the edge in marked circle? It seems I cannot find it anywhere, just other "grainy" stuff..

@Kyle Mitchell not a problem for awakening the dead! Well, I've had same Italian press as you are, nr. 2, but thread on mine is1/4-24 correct, yes. You actually don't need this thread, unless you have some dies for other presses and need them to fit into this one, but since nr. 2 press has quite short piston movement, thread adaptors arent an option. I've had 10+ dies from all different presses, so I had to set them all on same thread on lathe to make them fit this press. Moving on, as with brand, who is making these presses, take a look here: https://www.fbg-italy.com/en/ Movi is one of my favourite companies, since they offer EVERYTHING and a small distributer delivers me weekly from their company directly. And concerning you and Matt S: Try using these kind of presses. They're not twist, but lever type with 10mm, 12mm or 1/2" and you can have adapters to change for any known and unknown thread there you want.

I am waiting for their samples already But thank you anyway.

Thank you for that information, also having issues of finding that type of leather in Europe. This apron (on the first photo) is going to be for a blacksmith, so it has to be thick, tough and soft. As written before, I got this leather from a local dealer, who refuses to bring on another or share the contact of the tannery.