JRB

Guess I just missed it. Thanks!

Where did you get your hardware? I want to locate some of the black finished hardware but didn't see the "cup" washers like you used in black at McMaster-Carr.

When laying out your design/pattern do you measure the overall width of the patter to fit a common pocket size (like Levi) or is there a desired width to shoot for? Thanks guys/gals!

Looks good. Pretty well defined lines on molding/boning. How did you do your tensioner?

Is Tuff Kote and Tan Kote a clear finish that can be used w/different color dyes? I thought I had read that Tan Kote was tinted.

I was looking at getting some Weaver Leather products (like Weaver Tuff Coat, dyes, etc.) When I went to look for their prices to compare I saw they require a tax ID #. I guess they won't sell to individuals? If not, I guess I'll look for someone that carries Fiebing Bag Kote instead.

I have played around w/this as well. I first struggled w/finding a way to find hardware long enough to go thru the holster and strap (the rivets I had were too short to go thru both layers of holstr + layer for loop). With the help of those here and some other holster makers that were willing to provide advice I came up w/these methods to play with. 1) Lobo's method. This requires the least amount of hardware. Although I can't get my head around how this makes a slimmer package??? 2) Rivet or screw (w/T-nut) the band by placing the rivet/screw & snap stud offset of center. For shorter rivets you can attach to the outside layer of holster before gluing & stitching...This also provides a cleaner look because the T-nut/rivet is not exposed on the back. 3) Find screws that w/a head that will fit inside the snap stud and use a T-nut on the back side. 4) Chicago style screws. 8/32 and 6/32 screws & T-nuts seem to be the common choice.

What is your preferred method of preparing the leather to apply dye (products to clean, prep the leather, etc.)?

Lobo - For the benefit of the OP...When are you applying dye? I believe the preferred method is to apply the dye before the neatsfoot oil and Bag Kote (I'm ordering the Weaver Kote to try which should provide similar results). From the pics it looks like Lobo dyes before he stitches.

I've learned that dying black is easier and hide a multitude of sins!

I had the same concern when drawing up the pattern. Now that I have it done and on it seems to be ok. With that said, I did move the belt loops down about 1/8" because the holster is just barely above the pants. But I want to keep it as low as possible. Something else to pay attention to when drawing up future patterns. Thanks for the input. I have a lot to learn from you guys and it's GREAT that pros like yourself are willing to help flunkies like me!

I guess the lines you see (like around the moulding of the trigger guard and along the length of the barrel) are creases from making a mark rather than an actual feature of the gun.

Can anyone recommned a good supplier where you could buy most of the supplies you would need? One stop shopping I guess. Considerations would be price, selection & service. Looking for one place I can buy: leather (better than the cheap stuff I've been hardware (snaps, screws, rivets...) belt clips dyes finishes (fiebings bag kote, resolene...) Thanks!

Nice...Very good on the molding/boining!

It's supposed to be 7/8...but seems a bit on the light side. It's the lower grade leather thru Tandy. That's part of the reason I had the post on polishing the inside. But until I'm done experimenting I don't need to spend the $ I high end leather. Besides, I'm more concerned about it working than looking the best at this point. Thanks for the compliments.

Here are some pics of my first successful IWB holster. The first attempt rode too high and felt top heavy. This one seems to ride just about right. It has about a 15 degree cant. I tried a mahogany/black 2-tone finish. The main color is mahogany w/black edges, loops & inside. Still need to put a top coat on but want to try something like one of the Weaver Kotes or Fiebings Bage Kote. Critique away...

Okie -Can you get the heat resistant foam for making a press somewhere else or are best to get it at KnifeKits? I know you don't need for the clips but would for other stuff. "Split the ears"...I'm not sure I follow. Picturing this in my head the attachment point on the holster has to be about mid way down, or farther, in order to tuck a shirt. Then the snap part of the loop has to extend up past that to get over the pants. Sorry, I'm a little slow.

To avoid any disputes of trademark (or patent) claims I removed the sketch. If anybody has any ideas on making a tuckable IWB holster let me know. My original thought was something I thought of in my search to find a way to attach the belt loops when I couldn't find hardware long enough to go thru the holster, loop and snap stud. I'm open to ideas that won't start any battles.

Interesting...A tuckable design is not a new concept. However, I'm not sure how everybody does it. Trademark on the tuckable or the rail concept? I more or less stumbled across this because I couldn't figue out how to attach the belt loops because my snaps & rivets weren't long enough. The rail I pictured is off a Comp Tac holster but it has the belt hooks which I don't really want. PM sent.

I'm looking for a good source for holster hardware such as belt clips, thumb break snaps, directional snaps, slotted plastic rails, etc. A Google search didn't bring back too much.

Attached is a sketch of a design idea I'm working on for a tuckable IWB holster. The idea is that the attachment for the belt loops will be low enough to allow a shirt to be tucked between the attachment rail and the holster. Let me know your thoughts/ideas. For my first attempt the attachment rail will be a piece of leather. However, I would like to get my hands on some type of plastic or other material rail like in the othe pic here. Actually, I need to find a source for other holster type hardware that I'll post a separate topic for. Thanks!

I'm assuming you dye first then apply the Bag Kote. Would you still apply a finish like resolene?

Any thoughts on what to use (homemade formula) to "polish" the inside of a holster? I like to get the inside smooth...Not like glass just a little less "rough". My thought is to do this before I glue & stitch.

The normal snaps seem to have a pretty good hold, unless they weaken a lot over time. Do you think you need the directional snaps for the loops in IWB holsters?

What is the difference between your basic Line 24 snaps and "directional snaps"? I see a lot people state they use directional snaps so that they only come unsnapped when you want to. I haven't seen these at my local Tandy store.