mike02130
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Posts posted by mike02130
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1 hour ago, Leather2 said:Thank you mike02130,
going back to what you said on needles, how do I choose correct thread for the needle size? Thanks again.
What size holes are you making, how thick is your leather and what size thread will you be using? Figure what you're going to make and the thickness of the leather. Most likely 004 small. First thing is to figure what your hole punching tool is going to be. Don't put the cart before the horse, they don't push well.
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3 hours ago, Leather2 said:I am curious to know why you would skip a stitching wheel, and go for stitching chisels. From what I have seen stitching wheels are used for long stitch seams as well as curves, Am I missing something?
Watch some you tube videos, very few makers use them. There are some old-timers and saddle makers here that I think use them. They prick a mark then you make each hole with an awl. It is laborious and takes some practice. Stitching chisels and pricking irons are used following a line made with a wing divider. The two prong chisel one is used for going around curves while the six prong chisel one is for straight runs. I suppose one advantage of the wheel is that it is cheaper to use different sized wheels and one awl rather than buying multiple chisels. Also when making holes in a saddle you don't have the advantage of it being flat on a bench and are able to hammer the the holes.
I prefer pricking irons over the chisels. They are measured differently. Irons are measured from center to center of each tooth and chisels are measured between each tooth. For sheaths go with the chisels. If you start making bags and wallets you will probably want to invest in finer tools, in both size and quality. Most of my work is 9/10 holes per inch. Let's just say a wallet has a 16" perimeter x 10 =160 holes. That is a lot of awl work.
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You listed a decent budget friendly starting set up for making sheaths. You did some home work. I suggest you eliminate the stitching wheel and get a set of Japanese style stitching chisels. I bought the same awl and the ferrule and blade came off the first time I used it. RML sells a Vergez Blanchard diamond awl at a good price and after polishing the blade it will work well for you. John James 004 are small and 002 are large. Buy some good thread and you're all set to go. You may as well order everything from Rocky Mountain Leather. They don't carry junk and have free shipping.
Get the 2 and 6 tooth.
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1 hour ago, cottontop said:OK mike02130. Thanks for your input. Will do!
Joe
Watch this and see what's involved and then come on back.
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Do not buy a kit. You'll get a bunch of crap that you won't use and the stuff you will use will be junk. Figure it out first. Google and YouTube ought to be your best friend. Learn some then come back here with some knowledge and you will get better and more concise answers.
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Tool rolls seem cool but they are always, bulky and they need a large surface to be rolled open on and an overall pain in the ass. I find a leather tool bag much better for storage and access.
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I'm not a tack guy but if I'm sewing a keeper on a belt I use an awl.
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How many layers of edge paint are you using and do you use heat to smooth it out?
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Let us know if it worked.
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I'd try taking a torch to it. Show it who's the boss.
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Well, call me Ishmael.
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Best suggestion I can think of first off, is show one item that you've made. Tell us what you think is wrong, what you would like to improve and the community will go from there. You will get a much better conversation and learning experience.
I get in my truck and it's hard to start and when I go it makes a noise. Can you tell me what's wrong? I would get 20 different answers all starting with maybe.
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4 hours ago, MtlBiker said:Gee, you'd think a company would list somewhere on their website which country they're in! You're not kidding about Google being our friend... thank you for that link. I'm going to place a small order to start with.
You ought to email them and set them straight. You're not the first Canadian I've informed of OA that had no idea they were a Canadian dealer.
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11 hours ago, RockyAussie said:My wife Mary does the IG stuff mostly and and knows you from there. She says Hi
So you mean to say that I've been having a relationship with your wife, while all the time I thought you and I had a thing going?
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2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:- Great advice, thanks! That's actually what I had in mind... keeping it simple and the pouch I posted was just to show the approximate size and purpose of what I wanted to make as my first project. I hadn't planning on putting a binding on the edge with leather. And that leather supply link you gave looks like a really terrific place. But I couldn't find anywhere on their site where (which country) they are in. They offer payment options in multiple different currencies but I'd much prefer to buy from a Canadian source than have it shipped from another country. But it sure looks like they have what I'd need. When you say to buy their "3/4 oz" leather, do you really mean three-quarters of an ounce? I was told earlier that the 2 to 3 oz leather would be too thin for what I need.
Google is your friend.
See what comes up first when you Google OA Leather Supply.
3/4 ounce, in USA means 3 to 4 ounce.
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This is getting pretty complicated.
Go here, https://www.oaleathersupply.com/ and buy their 3/4 oz leather. Make a simple pouch like the one you show but eliminate that wrap-around thing covering the edge. If you're using a machine you need nothing else. Burnish the edges with some water and a stick. No need line it, you're just asking for trouble. Apply the KISS method--keep it simple s..... After making one then you can explore further. The horse goes in front of the cart. Come back here and show us what you made and then we'll go from there.
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13 hours ago, RockyAussie said:Hope this helps some
Brian
Harry, are you Brian? I guess Wild Harry sounds better than Wild Brian, huh? It's Mike from IG.
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Weaver leather sponsors Corter and I don't believe they carry thin leather, hence the thick recommendation.
If I'm making an unlined wallet, I use 1.5 mm for the back and .8mm to 1mm for the interior. For a lined wallet I have my leather spit to .5mm and use a .5mm lining between two pieces for the back so it equals 1.5mm. I glue glue up two pieces flesh to flesh for the interior. That way everything is lined. Chevre is nice, but it is sold by the hide and is expensive.
Thickness--It looks like your T-slot tabs are overlapping each other. Is that the case? They should not be. That's likely the reason you have "bumps" making it difficult. Also you lined the bill pocket with material.
10 hours ago, ThatTallChick said:Also, when etching the line for the stitch holes to go, all the pockets are already secured in place and I found the line was really difficult to make straight since it was going over all the "bumps" of the tops of the pockets. I used an adjustable edge creaser for this and it was just really difficult. The easiest way I found to crease or groove the lines was to make the lines and punch the holes before assembly, but it was really hard to get the holes to line up when I did it that way. Am I doing something wrong or is this just supposed to come with practice? Or better tools?
I don't quite understand this? If you have a straight cut and use a wing divider--the proper tool--it should not be difficult.
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I'd recommend getting an older one off of Ebay. I believe they were made with better steel. The UK guys love those knives. I think there is a big learning curve.
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3 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:Unless you can have one made in the colors you want, I see no way to alter the color that would turn out well. I'll wager that the color goes all the way through and every scuff will bring out the base color. It would be easier to change the color of your horse than the color of the saddle.
Yup, that would be a horse of a different color. The youngins may not get it.
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3 hours ago, bigsig11010 said:What kind of snap is that and where did you get them. All I’ve been able to find are standard line snaps.
In USA I've seen them called glove snaps. Nice stuff.
leather2
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You're getting out of my range. I make women's purses and wallets using leather split at .5mm up to 4 ounce (doubled to 8oz.). There are other thick leather guys here with better knowledge and experience. I will tell you what I would use but there may be other needles and threads that the pros use that I'm not aware of.
So, 8 ounce times 2=16 ounce (1/4") What about a welt? The needle depends on the thread size. For that thickness I would think the thread should be .08 to 1mm with a John James 002 big needle. Order the awl, needles and Ritza Tiger thread from RMLS. The awl is going to take some work before penetrating that leather. You will have to polish the blade and maybe touch up the point.
Have you searched "leather sheaths" on YouTube?
I'm guessing that you do not know how to saddle stitch? Can't make much without that knowledge. Gotta figure that one out first.