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katit

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Posts posted by katit


  1. "Crucial parts" was quoted to indicate their "importance". But I got nice machine and I figured it would be nice to have it complete. Of course I don't really care about those parts. Belt cover (front piece) is kind of bothers me cosmetically :)

    WD40 doesn't work :(

    Just took motor pulley off - it's 75mm and 15mm inside. Found same one but 45mm on eBay, let's see what it does. Should give more torque which is what I need. When I press pedal half way even though it's not sewing if I crank by hand it goes much easier. So, it's just motor can't overcome resistance. And seller said putting on low speed won't help. If I will work with leather it just won't start.. I hope 45mm pulley will help.

    Another question about servo motor: Should they squeal? When I turn machine by hand I hear this squealing noise. I though maybe it's belt skipping. But now I had pulley off and turned motor and it's motor itself. When it turns over under power - no problem. But it's very annoying when you do this last stich or try to raise needle it makes this horrible sound.

     


  2. Spent couple hours just looking at all parts, sewing some, etc. Many questions came up..

    1. I want to clean it. See picture with white wrinkled surface. Dirt in low spots. I tries to soak with contractor solvent(similar to goo gone) and use tooth brush but no luck. Any suggestions? I think if I can clean it - machine will be like new..

    2. Servo motor. I was practicing and trying to go really slow. Sometime it works, but pedal travel is not relative to speed. Example, 30-40% of travel nothing happen and then 10% of travel it moves slowly and then it just goes fast. I wonder if there is something I can do to make it gradual? Changing speed on servo control just "moves" this grab point and makes top speed lower/faster

    3. Bobbin casing. There is some dirt/gunk inside. I'd like to clean but not sure if it's possible to take hook assembly out without kicking it off alignment?

    4. Machine missing all "Crucial" parts :) In manual it says don't run without needle guard, don't run without this guard over this up/down thingy (not sure what is the name) and don't run without belt cover. All those missing. I found part numbers for them. Any common online supplier for those?

    5. Walking foot. It is not flat on a bottom. I afraid it might mark leather. Which one do I need and any other feets I need to get for this machine? Will be working on automotive upholstery.

    Thanks a lot!

     

     

    IMG_2382.jpg

    IMG_2388.jpg

    More pics:

     

    IMG_2384.jpg

    IMG_2387.jpg


  3. Finally it happened!! I got my first sewing machine. Not first walking foot, not first industrial. But first sewing machine!

    Machine seem to work just fine. Smooth, servo motor can be controlled pretty good. I was able to sit down in a store and do some sewing just like I wanted, first time in my life :)

    Machine looks more dirty than on picture, of course. Any suggestions on how to get it cleaned up really good (those paint wrinkles?)

    Very excited. Now need to get some thread and start practicing..


  4. This question is loaded as I get really confused with this. And I'm new to this too.

    I will put many tidbits of info here (facts) and try to ask some questions to make sense of it

    1. Automotive leather has special UV treatment (DYE? clear coat?) Some places claim this.

    2. Automotive leather is just an upholstery leather about 1.2mm thick. Called Tandy leather, they have upholstery leather for $90 per hide on sale - she said it's used for cars too.

    3. There is bad/cheap and good automotive leather. Stay away from cheap leather

    4. I ordered samples from german OEM leather distributor (about $500/hide) - it's soft, pliable.

    5. ordered samples from other automotive leather distributor (about $200/hide) - much stiffer, seems like top "color coat" is like plasticky..

    6. I watched some youtube video where guy was complaining that leather he got is very stiff/dry and not good (cheap)

     

    So, how can I make sense out of it? How can I tell if leather bad or not bad? Is places like Tandy to stay away? What bad leather means? Hard to sew? (and if so what problems exactly?) Or it will dry out under sun/rip, etc?

    Bottom line I'd like to understand how to tell, what to look for. Maybe if someone knows also recommend good seller.

     


  5. 3 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

    That machine is a clone of a 1245.  It is not a genuine Pfaff.  Good copy though at least in appearance.   Chinese have done a very good job in a lot of cases of copying  PROVEN genuine machines.  Only test is to sew on it and see how it feels and sews.   the real test is the tolerances and the steel they used in making it.  Genuine Pfaff's are some of the smoothest machines out there even over Adler and Juki's. I have owned a few of each and just bought a new D/A 669 which is a beast.

    glenn

    Glenn, are you sure? Maybe it's some "special order"? Because sticker on a bottom if you make pic little bigger says PFAFF... something on a top


  6. On ‎7‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 2:32 PM, Uwe said:

    You should totally buy a machine from a local store if you can. They'll be happy to provide service and parts. The early Consew 206RB-5 and previous 206RB-1/2/3/4 models were Seiko machines. Later, Consew quietly switched the 206RB-5 to a Chinese clone supplier.

    Well.. It's been a while but I still don't have a machine. They never come through to my emails, now I can't even get a hold of Nick. That machine sold now :)

    Home improvements got me sidetracked from hobbies, now I'm back.

     


  7. 19 minutes ago, Uwe said:

    You should totally buy a machine from a local store if you can. They'll be happy to provide service and parts. The early Consew 206RB-5 and previous 206RB-1/2/3/4 models were Seiko machines. Later, Consew quietly switched the 206RB-5 to a Chinese clone supplier.

    Do you know approximately what time 206RB-5 manufacture started? Just trying to estimate age..

    Also, I asked to show how slow machine can go and also motor controllable - it had trouble starting through thick fabric on lowest speeds because of lack of torque. I assume speed reducer still needed. Or is there newer servo motors which will start and go slow through automotive leather? I know if I go with this machine some upgrade will be needed, just not sure what is the best way


  8. Still looking and learning as much as I can. Right now decision is to wait for great deal on used and if nothing by end of August - go with new. Probably P1206RB or Seiko.

    While watching and reading I noticed some machines have bobbin under machine in front and some machines have it on top. Question: which is better/easier?

    out of machines I watch used: 206, 211/111, 562/563, 545/1245 which one is which?


  9. 8 hours ago, brmax said:

    I like that Singer back there, always wanted one and none were in the papers. Then when I do find other machines here they all show up. I believe that 156 has been sitting for awhile so a watch to see if it works would be the big sale observation. 

    They have been or are possibly a member I havent a clue but a better price would have interested me several years ago. 

    That machine may take a bit of polish and tune. I suspect this anyway, just as many new ones do. 

     

    Good day and have patience 

    Floyd

    I made an offer, seller said he will wait and try to get full price for it but will get back to me if nothing happen. I figured for work that need to be done + Servo motor $400 is probably right price. Yes, it seems like this machine was sitting for a while with all that patina(rust?)


  10. 3 hours ago, brmax said:

     

    With all that out the way I have seen some great machines in the CS ads in Saint louis, its just the waiting. But your price could be better estimated at 1200. for a great litely used machine, possibly with a newer servo. They seem to run at two bills. 

    Floyd

    Floyd, thanks.

     

    what “two bills” means? Never heard this phrase before

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