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***SOLD***

Up for sale and looking for a good home is a Knipschield Texas Rosebud Round Knife. Barely used. Maybe cut a few scraps and yes, it’s as sharp as they say. Then life intervened. $225 delivered to your doorstep. CONUS only. PayPal please. Message me if interested. Thanks for looking!

Wow! Almost a year. If I may ask, which knife did you order? For me, im thinking what Bikermutt said, someone backed out for my particular knife and I was probably next in line just for that knife. William

It took me by surprise when I got Terry’s email that he finished the knife. He seemed a little reluctant at first to add another name because he said he was several hundred knives in the hole. As long as I understood that there would be a wait Which would was fine with. This is better though

Nice! For keeping your round sharp, did you follow his advice on the Brownell’s 555 Black? At his recommendation, I have some on the way to use on a horse butt strop.

Got a very pleasant surprise yesterday. Took delivery of this beauty. A Terry Knipschield round knife. Texas Rosebud to be exact and this thing is scary sharp. The surprise was my wait was about 3 weeks when I put my name on the waiting list. I was settling in for the long haul of sometime next year! It’s a little pricey, but this is definite quality in the steel and edge. I think it will be worth every penny. Oh,the handle looks nice too William

Nice and congrats! I have the 3.0 mm and 4.0 mm, 5 and 2 prong set. Just got the single prong. I also watched Nigel’s video and read his notes. As a Newb, I wanted something that would not frustrate me as I start out. Yet when I want to finally learn to use the awl, it can do that too. They appear to be well made, polished and sharp. Yeah, a little pricey but in this case, I think the end will justify the means. IMHO. William

Thanks! Will give it a go. Practice makes perfect. The videos I have watched, it appears the knife is almost perpendicular to the edge and the tip doesn’t extend very much beyond the edge.

Apologize in advance for the hijack but my newb question fits in with awl work being mentioned. I have a set of 3 and 4 mm Crimson Hide irons. They punch through beautifully. Makes my life easier while I learn the craft. Not surprising, Crimson sell an awl to match their 3/4mm line. Would any 3mm diamond awl work or would I be married to their line when I decide to give awl work a try? If their awl is anything like their chisels, I imagine I have nothing to worry about, but you never know! I see a lot of matching awls to go with a set of irons, etc. Great discussion! William

Right now, I’m trying it out without a microbevel. I feel safe with the push cut going at the edge at 90°. Short cuts and slow, but it lets me breath a bit easier. Practicing the pull cuts. Haven’t quite got the angle down for those nice long strips. I get a moment of “a ha”, then lose the angle. Lol. After I gave it an initial sharpening, I’m using a horse butt hide strop (without any compound at the moment) to see how it goes.

Nice! What kind of steel will you be using? Keep us posted.

Thanks for the video! Dude has some mad skiving skills. Sharp knife doesn’t hurt either! Aside from that, I learned a brilliant way of preventing my thread getting caught on my stitching pony! Will be addressing that.

I quickly found I am definitely not one to wield one like magic or even remotely close so it. It may wind up as a door stop! Lol. What I like about Lisa’s skiver, the control and I can skive from a definitive line to the edge. Very neat. Very clean so far. I can’t rip long strips with it yet, so not the fastest. But it’s getting the job done hitting it at 90° angles. I will most likely invest in the 1” version.

Thanks! I wound up getting a 3/4” skiver from Lisa Sorrell from a recommendation a few posts up. It was like $30 and shipped quickly. Out of the box it was sharp. But me being me, clamped it on my Wicked Edge system and got it where it pushed cut quite nicely. Now I just strop using horse butt hide after several cuts to maintain the edge. I also do the 90° to the edge. While I still have a bit to go, I feel I cut my learning curve significantly. You hit a key point. The ability to control it. MUCH better than the Super Skiver. That thing can sit in the bag and collect dust. Have a round knife as well from Weaver. Learning to sharpen it. Long way off from skiving with it but I will get there. I’m on the waiting list for a Knipschield round knife Maybe by time it comes next year, I might be able to do something with it other than look at it William

Thanks Gary. I kind of figured that may be the case. Machine shops are are probably not the cheapest around. Bikermutt did have a great suggestion though with a press that’s pre drilled.

Like many, considering a HF 1 Ton Press when it goes on sale and 20% on top of that. Mostly for stamps and makers mark. Not liking the maul results. Considering future uses when I get into grommets, rivets and the like. I don’t have the means to DIY machine it. With that said, those who took it somewhere, what is the typical machine shop costs to drill out the ram, set screw and the rotating anvil? 3/8” seems to be the popular size? I know this can be wildly subjective on where you go, but ball park. in this case, I would mount it to a board and clamp to my bench as space is limited. I will certainly consider putting machinist costs towards a dedicated press. I.e. like a Goldstar or similar as that’s the job they do and they appear to do it well. Just considering options. Thanks! William

According to the You Tube she did, you can do both. I have edges that I have to do no wider than 3/4” and on about 1mm-1.2mm leather. So not a lot of margin for error. With the super skiver, it gouged, ripped and tore.

So I inquired about skiving knives Here and got some great suggestions. To recap, I have a Tandy Super Skiver and came to hate it almost immediately. I took a small plunge and got one of Lisa Sorrell’s skiving knife. 3/4”. Shown in pic. Out of the box it was sharp. But it did have some difficulty with push cut of magazine paper. Brought out my trusty Wicked Edge sharpening system, registered a true 20° per side after finding my burr. Progressed from 200g-1500g. 6 and 1 micron diamond lapping film. Stropped it down from 4 to .1 micron, diamond emulsion. Mirror edge. Nice push cuts now. havent been able to try it yet Have to get some material. My question is if anyone uses a micro bevel for such knives? It’s my understanding that micro bevels are good for fibrous materials. Leather appears to be fibrous? Or just maintain the edge as is? Thanks, William

Thanks for all the great suggestions. Not quite sure what I will be moving forward with yet, but it will not with be the super skiver or it’s cousin.

Funny you say that. I put my name on the waiting list for one of Terry’s round knives. Still waiting for confirmation from him but it sounds like it will be at least 6 month wait. He said he was about 700 knives behind. That said, I am toying with the idea of a Weaver round knife for the interim. The Weaver round knife appears to be well reviewed and I can learn to sharpen it. If Terry chooses to hold off on adding names, which I completely understand, I will look at better options?

Hi everyone. As practice, I was trying to hand skive 1.2-1.4mm leather in preparation for my project which calls for skiving about 1.0mm. I was using a Tandy Super Skiver and well, it sucked. No matter how delicate of a touch that I tried, my cuts were vastly uneven and it pretty much ripped and tore up the edges. Absolutely no uniformity in the cuts. I’m sure some operator fault is there. Skiving is a skill until itself especially with thinner leather. I have to ask; is there a better knife/tool to learn on like a very sharp, straight or slanted skiving knife or even a round knife? I don’t mind putting the time in to practice but if it’s a better knife choice thing, I would rather practice with that Any insights, tips or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks! William

Hi Russ, Would you be able to provide a pic of your High Desert stamp and maybe an impression (and whether via maul, press or other)? I am considering them when I reach that point and considering I’m west coast, shipping should be really fast. Thanks! William

This represents my 3rd and 4th attempt at saddle stitching. Front and back. I also attempted to practice back stitching on the top row. I know there are a few mistakes, not sure what they were so I can avoid them. The pierced thread bit me on the top run. Cut it out and soldiered on. Overall, kinda of zen like when the rhythm kicked in. Leather 1.90~2.0mm Crimson Hide irons 3mm (top), 4mm (bottom) Tiger Thread .6mm (orange), .8mm (black) Speaking of Crimson, they sent me two sample threads to try in gold and white when I received my irons. Japanese Polyester Thread I believe. .4 and .5mm respectively. A nice surprise. Thanks for any feedback! William

Thank you kindly for the welcome! Dipping my toe as it were for the first time in leather, I purchased a couple 25m spools of Tiger from RMLeather. I guess you can say it will be my base line as I’m sure I will venture off to try others. Ar you down the CC way?

Interesting breakdown on cost of threads. FWIW. Tiger Thread .6mm RMLeatherSupply $6.75/25m + Free Shipping = $6.75 $.27/m Fil au Chinois “Lin Cable” waxed linen .63mm RMLeatherSupply $21.99/200m + Free Shipping = $21.99 $.10995/m Vinymo MBT Bonded Thread Size 1/ .6mm District Leather Supply $6.75/60m +SH $3.29= $10.04 $.1673/m Japanese Polyester Thread .6mm Crimsonhides $5.82/45m +SH $7.27=$13.09 $.29/m Supersew MBT Poly Size 5/.6mm Fineleatherworks $9.97/100m +SH $7.00=$16.97 $.1697/m *Kept at or around 6mm thread ** $USD / converted as necessary ***don’t know if you can find smaller quantities. I went with what was easily available without having to go into the dark web ****obviously there are a $hit ton more out there. *****there may be a math mistake I blame the bourbon