Husky3

I am trying to make some coasters using a chrome tanned leather - it seems like everything out there is for veg tanned. From what I have read you don't want to use oil/wax on chrome tan because it clogs the pores? I am mainly trying to waterproof but also condition. Also I used colored leathers so don't want any color changes.

I am going to buy some blank iphone inlay cases and line them with leather. anyone know where I can find a pdf of the inlay portion of recent models?

I use a very thin, chrome tanned leather. very simply, you can't burnish it. so I edge paint. it takes signifcantly more time.

OP, I hope you went to a surgically trained foot specialist. I assume you are talking about a podiatrist. I hope it was not a person who does minimal surgery or only forefoot surgery. I am a podiatrist as my day job. There are too many of us that would rather do custom orthotics (cash pay) than fix the problem. By no means is surgery always the answer, but it often is with severe arthritis. Anytime there is pain, instability or deformity an arthrodesis (fusion of the joints) can often fix the problem. Certain joints, (1st MPJ, ankle) can be replaced, but as a general rule, fuse it. No movement no pain. Feel free to PM me with questions and if I know anyone in your location I can give you some suggestions. Orthotics can only do so much, shoes can do only so much.

Does a round knife work when using an acrylic template to cut against? I am using an 11 surgical blade and they dull pretty quickly (i have an endless supply...) but get the job done when i am not at the right angle and just barely touch the template

I have some groz beckert needles just for leather coming my way. Maybe I thought the needle that came with it was ok as it is an industrial machine and they show it being used on leather in the instructional videos. Will going with the smallest needle for a given thread size help? and will going to a certain size thread help with this?

I am using a very hard type of leather. I have attempted hand sewing and using diamond chisel. Granted they were craft tool, but seemed sharp. I am only cutting through 4-5 oz of leather when all layers are combined. I am not running into a similar problem with my new sewing machine, a sailrite fabricator with the standard needle------Its like a gunshot there is a nice lean hole on the top and the bottom is blasted out and when the chisel/needle retracts it leaves the bottom layer stretched out and messy looking. right now I think I am using a 110/17 needle and 92 nylon. So a few questions- 1. Is it crazy to not stitch a wallet and rely on glue and edge paint? I am not burnishing rather using 4 or 5 layers of edge paint. 2. What needle type do I want to use that will truly cut through hard leather as opposed to puncturing 3. Is a larger thread a better idea as this will cover some of the stretched out hole? Thank you

I am looking for a head for a regad creaser I am going to purchase. I need to use it to create a groove for the stitching. I want it to be approximately 4mm from the edge. I am using .6mm tiger thread. Will one of the FN series work? Most everything I see only goes up to 3mm from the edge.

I am using 2 different types of leathers, bison - which stretches, and another type (trade secret....) that is very thin about 1.5 oz. I am trying to use one on each side for parts of the design. I have found that using adhesive makes the thin leather dimple especially where it folds. My idea was to use an interfacing between then two. So would I just be using interacing (probably heat n bond) instead of any type of adhesive? I will be hand sewing and using fenice edge paint as well. This is for wallets and other small items. Other parts of the design I will use adhesive.

when you polish with wax, what exactly are you using?

awesome, I think that might work. thank you

Hi all, I am new to leathercraft. I am wanting to make a valet tray that snaps/buttons together. Unfortunately the thickness of the material is only 2oz. My idea was to glue it to another type of leather, increasing the thickness and making it more sturdy. This would then allow it to be reversible. So: 1. Since this won't get heavy usage like a wallet - will I be ok just gluing the two pieces together and then properly burnishing the edges? 2. I wanted to use double ended buttons and holes then it would allow for a reversible build. Can anyone point me in the right direction for this hardware? Thank you.