JazzBass
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Posts posted by JazzBass
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Good job!
You might consider skiving the edges of the accent piece on the front, so there’s less of a ridge.
I like the red thread on the black bag. The “Batman” combo is a winner on lots of things. I found that using cream colored, or beige, works well when you want a bit less white, but it looks good as is.
I also agree completely regarding oval holes, but they take a lot more care to get them straight. I found that if, instead of just trying to line up the tool, I’ll punch a hole through a small piece of poster board to use as a template. You place the template over your mark, and when it’s straight, use hand pressure on the tool to mark the oval on the leather, then remove the template, re-index the tool, and punch through. The nice thing here is that you can see all the ovals in a line before punching, and make small adjustments if necessary, before punching them out
Nice job!
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That’s quite good for your first belt!
Belts are great, because there are SO many choices in making. The only problem is that you’ll want to try them all! LOL.
Congratulations on #1. Face it- you’re hooked now. (Haha,)
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I agree with the others- you took the leap and worked through to completion. Good job!
Kudos for the groon…haven’t yet tried that myself.Keep going… you’ll surprise yourself with how quickly your work will improve, as you have fun along the way.
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Thanks for all the wisdom, folks!
Maybe I am a bit paranoid, as it is true that the stitch line is not required to support lots of tension, as in a cinch strap.
I’m sure you can see my concern though, as that stitch line is meant to be a hinge, that will be repeatedly be folded on BOTH sides.
I’ll just have to make a few, and see how the thickness and temper effect the long term durability.
Thanks again for the insight.
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We’ve all probably seen the card wallets with a money clip in the center…
Although it does indeed seem like a wonderful version of a “minimalist” wallet, the tube of the money clip is affixed by sewing the barrel/spring ACROSS the width of the card wallet- twice. Hmm…
These two stitch lines then become the hinges upon which the wallet is opened and closed. Double hmm…
isn’t that a recipe for splitting, craking, and ultimate failure over the long term? Isn’t that why we sew along the length of a strap, instead of across its width?
Opinions?? I like the design, but have serious misgivings as to the “engineering”. No, I haven’t yet made/tested one, but have had a few requests. My inclination is to believe that a lifetime guarantee would have me replacing every one I make, every 3-5 years. Am I wrong or just paranoid?
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On 2/13/2020 at 8:37 PM, Doc Reaper said:I have to agree with everything you just covered. Plus one more thing - never dye the liner if they wear light color clothing. Darker dyes and stains will eventually rub off!
Absolutely - Sometimes we sweat like we're in the gym. I personally have no problem with staining on the back side from sweat - it beats the heck out of having dye come off on clothing. The natural colored pig skin I've been using does stain, but feels great and won't bleed dye.
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43 minutes ago, Appaloosa said:I made a couple custom ordered motorcycle vests out of Elk Hide. Put a stingray hide in the middle for a natural reflector which was pretty cool. Chap leather is good for motorcycle vest.
Man, that looks incredible!
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Wonderful! The rolled edge of the deerskin over the opening of the sheath is a REALLY nice touch that I don't believe I've seen before....and done so cleanly! Beautiful!
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Nice...it seems to hold its shape, despite the soft temper.
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OK - Which one of you are responsible for THIS?
HAHAHA!!
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Fear not, and don't give up. My first "experiments" looked similar.
My first mistake was to "practice on something cheap". No, Tandy "craft sheets" are not cheap in cost, but trust me when I say that you can get top quality, Hermann Oak tooling leather, in specified thicknesses (not offered by Tandy), from Springfield Leather, for similar prices. This alone will take leather quality/consistency out of the equation.
Casing, for me, was also the most frustrating at first, as it is so subjective. I found that, relatively speaking, I want the leather damper when carving, and noticeably drier on the surface for tooling. This allows smoother, deeper cuts when carving, BUT - you MUST wait for the surface to return to near its original color, with good moisture under the surface, to see the burnishing that you want.
I think your cuts are a bit narrow and shallow, probably due to casing, knife sharpness, and/or pressure. A wider "trench" to bevel will really help as you learn the beveler.
JLS mentioned the 90deg mis-orientation at the bottom left. On the rest of it, and in general, the visibility of individual tool strikes, means that you're moving the tool FAR too much between strikes. You're also trying to get the bevel in a single pass...yeah, I did that too. Try this -
Cut a single, straight line in a fairly damp piece. Wait till the surface dries to near its original color. Now take your beveler - make SURE that the toe is in the groove, and tap it as lightly as possible. Move the tool a QUARTER of its width, and again, tap as lightly as possible. You're creating a small shelf, that will make indexing the tool on subsequent passes MUCH easier.
It's my impression (no pun intended), that you tooled too wet (no burnish), struck the beveler too hard, and moved it far too much between strikes. Believe me...the guys who can do it in a single pass and make it look smooth and easy, have been doing it for decades! You and I need to go a little deeper and a little smoother with each of several light passes.
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13 hours ago, mikesc said:I've watched a lot of musicians over the years, live and recorded on video, especially guitarists and sax players..I don't think it would be very hard to play like that..Meet the next Hendrix and Coltrane..I'm gonna be rich and famous..a legend in my own bathrobe..Should I become a professional Guitar player first ? or a professional Saxophone player ? I want to be the one that makes the most money.
Btw..Yeah I know they were both black. 
@mikesc - A belly laugh for your brilliance, and a tip my hat to a man who understands the difference between true sarcasm and infantile "snark".
I have occasionally had folks who came up to me and said, "You make it look so easy!".
to which I respond, " It IS easy - you just didn't get to see the 40 years of blisters that made it easy".
To be "hip" enough to choose the dichotomy of Hendrix and Coltrane, then your "btw...", reminds me of the old Dean Martin Roasts, where revering the genius of of men could be done while taking all the power out of stereotypes by laughter. Ah...the good ol' days! Meanwhile, you of course made a great analogy to the leather business.
You sir, are a steely-eyed missile man.
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Wow - methods and business positions related to repairs, all in one thread, all of them valid!
It seems that we should simply draw a distinction between "repair" and "restoration/conservation". I consider repair to be maintenance for continued use. In this case, @chrisash is of course, correct - it's a completely economic decision that determines whether to repair or replace.
Ah...but then, there's restoration/conservation. Here, @fredk and others have it right. It takes magnificent skills and a labor of love to do this well. Where restoration/conservation is concerned, it's going to be a situation where someone is ready and willing to pay more than the cost of a new item.
I think I'll be willing to do the former, in the hopes of gaining the skills to do the latter.
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On 7/30/2019 at 2:20 PM, Dunluce said:I read this with interest as i have a friend who wants me to make him a guitar strap as described above; cut to length with no adjustment. I appreciate soft leather might feel better but my concern is that it will stretch over time both in length and where he holes are punched out for attaching to the guitar.
My thought is to take two strips of softish leather about 1.5mm (4oz) thick and glue them together. I will have a strip of reinforcement tape in the middle.to help prevent stretch and a piece of stiffish leather inserted at each end to provide support where the holes are punched. Any thoughts on this or can anyone recommend a suitable leather?
Since you are going to line it, (and, I assume, stitch it) the stitching all the way around will go a long way to minimize stretching overall. As to the holes, yes, there will be some stretching. Initially, it may be very stiff putting it on and taking it off, where a bit of stretch can be welcome. My next one will be 4-5oz with a very thin pigskin liner. I'll reinforce button holes only if necessary. I think two layers of 4-5 might be a bit thick, but that's personal preference, as a heavier, stiffer strap does distribute weight over a larger area (down the back, not just on the shoulder). A thick strap like that might work better with strap locks for convenience.
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On 7/23/2019 at 5:23 AM, Northmount said:Why would you suppose they dropped "oil" from the name? You can check out their MSDS information on their website. You can also check several other discussions here on LW where the topic has been discussed before.
Tom
Thank you...always learning here!
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On 7/20/2019 at 7:28 AM, Northmount said:Pro Oil dye is now called Pro dye. So called oil dyes are not oil based. They are solvent based and have some oil added to the concoction.
I was under the impression that with what we called "oil dye" had an oil based formula for the pigment itself, and that solvents are used as the carrier. Did I have it wrong?
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I agree that the Pro dye is far superior to many others...
Another thing to do though, is to brush your piece after drying. Pigment that does not penetrate should be removed before sealing with Resoline, Super Sheen or other waxes/oils, or you can get running or rub off from the unabsorbed pigment. -
1 hour ago, Constabulary said:There is no way I would install things like this, neither the freakin Alexa thingy (or similar) nor something that can control my heating or fridge, power supply or what ever via smartphone / internet. This technology makes "us" more vulnerable.
What's really surprising amongst all of this, is that, for many years, a lot of people have been worried about Orwell's "1984" becoming reality, with "big brother" surveilling every aspect of our lives...BUT INSTEAD, the people have essentially decided to surveil themselves!!! Snap a selfie - "here I am at XYZ" etc etc.
As a result, it is not the government per se that is functioning as the "thought police" today- it is the private sector.
Back to the point of the original post - the question is, what do we actually want done about private company censorship, shadow banning, outright banning, manipulating what is actually "trending", etc. ?
I am NOT one who calls for government regulation of private companies in general, even in the face of such reprehensible behavior. People voluntarily click "I agree" in the terms of service. HOWEVER ,HOWEVER, HOWEVER -
These companies, through their dishonest policies, have FAR more influence on election results than any Russian plot could ever dream of. The deliberate manipulation of political speech, ads, etc., amounts to billions of equivilent dollars in the political arena. For such deliberate abuse, there absolutely should be prosecutions for violation of election laws - if a TV station refused to run a political ad due to their bias, they would be fined and possibly lose their license. There is no "license" for social media, but unless and until they CLEARLY state that all opinions contrary to theirs will not be permitted on the site, they should be shut down entirely, solely for their deliberate election interference.
In the end, I'm betting that "Atlas Shrugged" will ultimately be a more prescient work than "1984", meaning that a time WILL come when those who produce, will simply refuse to play the game of the leftist collectivists who believe that they have a moral claim upon what you create. -
I bought a C.S. Osborne head knife, and it came with a prop65 sticker warning about "cancer and reproductive harm", while not even mentioning that it's sharp. Reproductive harm???...only if I drop it in my lap.
Ignore it. The most beautiful state in the country has long since been destroyed by idiots. -
Getting such a good match to the color of the basketweave and the handle, on an otherwise black sheath is fantastic!
Wow, that braid looks difficult - it must be tough to get it to look as even and consistent. Great job! -
Ok...can't help it...
When I saw the initials, I wanted to say, "Vladimir Putin will love his new growler".
Hey, somebody had to say it! LOL -
Wow...the fit, around the tapered bottle is amazing.
What is that stitch called? It looks similar to a "baseball" stitch, where it is tension-ed by pulling from the "inside"...if that makes sense. -
Regarding Resolene - I find that it has a noticeable solvent effect on dye and or antiquing. The pro dye you'll be using is a lot more stable in this regard than the Eco-flow (water based) dyes.
In any case, be sure to thoroughly brush the dyed surface after it's dry, before applying Resolene or any other top coat. You must remove any pigment that did not penetrate the leather, or it will be "floated" and can cause smearing. (been there, done that). -
If there are any flaws, I sure can't spot them!
Beautiful work!
First Time Carving
in Show Off!!
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That’s a really good first try…mine didn’t look that good!
I don’t know what leather you used, but I can say that after I started using Hermann Oak veg tan, I got better results in the depth and smoothness of cuts/bevels, and it takes dye better than almost anything else. As to the dye, stick with the Fiebings PRO dye, if you’re not using that already.
Hope that helps… the rest is just practice. Your cuts and bevels will get better in time. Keep going! Do the same pattern multiple times, instead of immediately jumping to something else. It’ll pay huge dividends later, as you can compare each version, and improve all the way. Again…it’s really a very good first attempt!